climber87

So I just started up my newly rebuilt 22re last night. It started a little rough but soon smoothed out and ran very well. Did the whole drive it a little rough for a while and then an oil change.

Today I tackled the idle and timing adjustments. I dle was really high about 1500 and I brought it down to about 900 because lower than that and it seemed to bog down.

I ran into problems with the timing. I shorted the two plugs in the diag box and checked the timing. It was advanced WAY beyond the 12 degree mark. looks like 20 degrees or so. When I tried to turn the distributor back to get the timing down around 5 or so it physically could only move as far as 8. I figured that maybe it is a tooth off, but after taking it out and putting it back in a couple of times this didn't seem to be the problem. When I align the timing mark to 5 degrees and put the rotor on the pickup the engine runs fine...but then the timing appears to be way advanced using my timing gun. When I do move the distrubutor to 8 degrees advanced the engine miss fires when it starts. Right now I have left it at that crazy far advanced placement because it runs real well there...no pinging, missing, etc.

What could be the reason for this? (also I unshorted those diagnostic pins and nothing changed so maybe that short just isn't working for me).

854x4

Check it for codes. If the computer doesnt flash codes then you have a problem. I had a problem like this and it turned out my tps was shot.

myyota

Check the balancer and make sure it hasn`t twisted out of time, the timming mark and the key way that slide over the crank shaft should be aligned with each other, if there not then the balancer is bad and needs to be replaced.

abecedarian

I'm guessing that when you insert the jumper (with the engine running) the idle changes?

ovrrdrive

I know if you don't jumper it right it will read like that... As above, does the idle drop down when you have it jumpered?

climber87

no the idle doesn't change when we jumper it

Flash319

OMG search dude........TPS.

87AzRunner

lol i have this same problem. that dam jumper is givin me hell

climber87

finally was able to get in and adjust my TPS and check my AFM.

Still having a bit of trouble starting. It cranks great, but doesn't catch right away. I have to crank it over a couple times...sometimes more.

Where would you start looking first if I've ruled out the AFM and TPS?

Flash319

COR relay or small leak in fuel system. The fuel pump on these motors does not run until the engine is cranking unlike a GM. If you have a small leak then air gets in the line and you have to wait a sec at start for the fuel to get to the injectors.

The COR relay (circuit open relay) is what turns on when the AFM flapper moves a bit. This COR relay turns on the fuel pump.

climber87

sounds like it could definitely be an air leak. Is there any other way to diagnose this? it starts up better the more recently I've had it running...if its sat for a couple days it takes longer to start. however, once it is running it is fine.

abecedarian

I'm going to add the the COR also should turn on when the engine is being cranked.
You can check the COR operation by checking for voltage on the FP terminal in the diagnostic block when cranking. If there's no voltage there, try applying voltage to that terminal from the B+ terminal or directly from the battery- this should turn the fuel pump on; then try starting the truck.
If it starts fine then I'd guess the COR is failing or maybe the connections are corroded. If it still has difficulty starting then time to troubleshoot.
Out of curiousity, what is the ambient temp when you're trying to cold start the engine? Does it start right up when warmed up, like you drove it around, turned it off then started it right up and it's fine?

93YotaGuy

I was having this issue a few days ago when I replaced my throttle body and had to re-adjust the tps. After getting it adjusted I was able to set the timing to spec but notice the same lag when starting.

I fixed it by playing with the timing a bit and advancing it by a few degrees. Starts up with the very first crank now and sounds amazing!

Try it and see how it goes.

desertcamper67

Any codes?
I had a similar problem and it was the TPS although it ran really good.

climber87

I only got a check engine light when I was pushing 75mph. I've got to check the code again cause the first time I was only getting a 5 and either an 11 or 21 i cant remember. Though I think the TPS is adjusted right now because jumpering the diag box slows my idle down noticeably.

I'm going to try and find someone around here that has a timing light because I'm at school and my timing light is at home.

abecedarian

make sure you clear your codes each time you fix / adjust something so that you don't get confused.

climber87

ok...timing set and no more error codes.

I'm still having trouble starting though. I have to crank it over a bunch and it hesitates when it starts. I did the whole jumper Fp and B+ in the daig box to ensure that the fuel pump is running and it is...so thats not the problem....which rules out the COR i believe.

I feel that maybe it could have to do with my cold start injector...its the only injector that i didn't get cleaned. Is there a way to test it...like pull it out and have it inject into a cup or something?

Kiroshu

Ok ok seems to be a bit of confusion going on. Ok You rebuilt the motor correct? I imagine you knew what you were doing. Ok lets say the rebuild is perfect but its still not where its supose to be. Ok The basic thing about motors especailly old ones. The more advance the engines timing is the more efficently it runs. I've played with alot of 22re timing. Its best to have it advanced alittle. Yours is showing way too much advance? Are you sure you marked the correct timing mark? I don't think you did unles you rammed the crank pulley on there the wrong way which is really impossible due to the notch that is supose to make that a big no no. You might have marked the wrong notch on the pulley look again and mark the right one. If this is the case then try timing again. Usually 22rs are good and being played by ear. But i'll tell you whats best for a few 22res i've done. Right now my truck is at exactly 12 degrees BTDC and 750-800 idle. Perfect runnning 22re. Thats really what i would keep it at. I would not go lower than 8 on the timing. If you don't like 750 idle al least keep it bellow 1000 is best. When you jump the terminals it sets base timing for the cimputer not the engine it self. That way you can adjust the timing without the computer tripping out and then after your done the computer will learn it, it has no choice.

Kiroshu

If you having to crank it the much to start it you might have a dif prob. unless the timing is way off. Like terrribley off.... Jumping timing? < I imagine not if it does not seem like its miss firing alot or shaking. Is this only on cold starts? If so might be related to coolant. Check coolant lvl make sure its full and if so and there is no codes? Might be a fuel prob or vac leak?

climber87

Yes sorry...let me clarify. I probably should start a new thread...but i figure this shows a progression in the troubleshooting.

Yes the engine is freshly rebuilt...i've put about 600 miles on it now.

It runs great once it starts...i have had no problems. The timing is set correctly as far as i can tell...now that I adjusted the TPS correctly. I also checked the AFM to ensure it is operating correctly.

However, I still have trouble starting. I have to crank it way to much to start it when it is a cold start. If I have run it recently...like earlier that day it is easier to start.

I troubleshooted the fuel pump and found that it is turning on when I turn the ignition to "start" but its not on when the ignition is just on "run". jumpering FP and B+ to turn the fuel pump on does not fix the starting problem.

I'm thinking that maybe the cold start injector could not be working correctly...or yes someone mentioned a vacuum leak to me before...how could that effect it?