chimmike

I know the 3rd gen+ and taco guys are doing this, why not for us? How about some long travel IFS stuff, to keep the halfway decent IFS without spending the arm+leg+kidney for SAS

( I know I was all gung-ho SAS for a while there, but a 2 wheel toy came into play and I couldn't pass up the price)

So.......after I install my diff drop and extended brake lines, my CV's are both leaking grease. I'm wondering if I can hybrid up some crap for some long travel/extended life CVs?

Maybe build some flexible CV armor, that type of thing too.

mastacox

It depends on how far you want to go, but for a good performance upgrade while retaining most of the stock strength:

Ball Joint Spacers
26mm torsion bars
Low profile bump stops
New Shocks
Swaybar Disconnects
Total Chaos Chromoly Idler Arm (or possibly idler arm gusset instead)

That is the setup I have on my '92, it seemed to perform quite well in a variety of conditions.

chimmike

I've got the OME #1 lift kit, so I have the spacers and OME shocks up front. Sway disconnect sounds like a good idea....I'm sure I can fab something up for that, and lowpro bumpstops, any source for those?

Idler arm..hmm.

mastacox

Bump stops can be gotten from Downey Off Road. They call them "Snubbers." Good combo is ultra-low profile (1/4" thick) for the lower (stuff) bump stops, and low-profile (5/8" thick) for the upper (droop) bump stops.

As for the idler arm, I would definitely recommend the Total Chaos Chromoly one. It's incredibly strong, doesn't have those stupid platic bushings in it, and helps your truck hold an alignment even after off-roading it. You should be aware however, that it has a slight conflict with ARB/TJM bumpers, and so if you have one you need to talk to Total Chaos about making a modification to the arm's mounting holes in order to allow it to work.

DaveInDenver

Now I find that out! I cut a notch in my ARB mount to clear the idler arm. BTW, no matter which direction you take, use the Total Chaos idler. It's worth every penny.

mastacox

Oh that sucks. I've heard that you can get TC to move the part of the idler arm that attaches diretcly behind the tow hook holes such that it will bolt on top of the bumper's mount. Seems feasible to me.

You're absolutely right in it being worth every penny though!!!

chimmike

I've got a Warn bumper, so that shouldn't be an issue.

DaveInDenver

I think I understand. I scratched my chin and concluded that I wanted that fourth bolt to remain, that's pretty important to the whole point of an upgraded idler arm. I cut the ARB thinking that the other 15 or whatever bolts would be more than up to the task of holding it on. If they have a way to bump the idler arm bracket with a slight step to clear the ARB mount, that would solve it (sounds like what they do).

mastacox

I dunno how the Warn bumper mounts. Does it use the stock tow-hook locations? Got any pics?

I will post pics of the problem area...

mastacox

Here we go, no whining about the dirty undercarriage!!!

Stock Idler:


Total Chaos Idler, note how it uses a bolt in the normally unused hole directly behind the tow hook. I actually had to remove the tow hook to install the arm. Some bumpers use this hole or come too close to it for the idler arm to work, unless you modify the bumper or custom-order the arm with that gusset moved down slightly in order to bolt on top/through the bumper.



You also might want a tap to chase the threads in that normally unused hole before using it too... I suspect I cross-threaded the crap out of the bolt getting it in there

chimmike

it does. Ouch. Guess I'd have to ask for the modified one too.

mastacox

Hey it's no biggie, we caught it before it was a problem, assuming you go with the TC arm anyway.

91TPU

damn that tc idler is expensive, whats the gain with the tc one over using the downey brace?

91ToyTrck

Quick Question :

Would an idler arm brace work the same as the TC Idler Arm? Is the extra money worth it in the long run? I'm having a piece made for my truck right now and need my tow hook holes. Does TC even make one for an 89-94 pickup?

mastacox

First: the TC Idler arm is specifically made for 1986-1995 IFS suspensions. We are talking about the arm installed on my "former" 1992 4Runner, not my new 1998 4Runner. Heck, newer 4Runners ('96+) don't even have idler arms, they are rack & pinion.

Now then, from what I have heard the idler arm brace is more of a band-aid than a fix. In the end you're still stuck with the crappy stock idler arm, and it can still be bent. Also, the plastic bushings will go out on you over time, they'll just take a little longer.

Is the TC Chromo Arm worth it? Absolutely, as long as you plan on sticking with IFS for a very long time; if you plan to SAS, it might not be for you. With that in mind, I've only ever heard of ONE TC arm ever breaking, and I suspect it was because the IFS was scraping through far more than any IFS should be put through.

fthertime666

Ok, so lets say I get the TC idler, the next part to go is the tie rods. I dont think you can run a full TC steering setup on the stock a-arms, the tie rod
"sleeve" would be too long. Thats a shame because that setup is pretty sweet. Anyone using fj80 tie rods sucessfully?

91ToyTrck

I just can't see paying $300 for 1 piece. I could undertand $100-$150 but that's just plan outragous to ask that kind of money. How can they jutify $300 for such a small piece of metal. That just seems craappy in my opiinion.

mastacox

Whatever then, just don't buy it. The decision is yours to make.

I have found it to be more than worth it with in terms of less time down, no idler arm rebuilds in more than a year (where as before it was every other month) and I don't have to worry about bending the thing while pounding around off-road.

slosurfer

I wouldn't recommend low pros for the upper bump stops. With low pros there, at full droop your inner joint will pinch your cv boot and rip it right away. Stay with stock and you may even have to shim your stock ones if they are too old and soft. Definately go with low pros for the lower bumpstops.