IFS & 35's!
#1
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IFS & 35's!
I got a 3" Body lift, and I can run 35's with minor rub, I have 33x12.5's right now, and want to go to 35x12.5's, I realize I wouldn't need much more lift, so I'll get balljoint spacers, and longer rear shackles to accomodate the tires. I will be regearing before I get 35's, I figured I'd get 5.29's with 33's, so it would be a little overgeared for the trail which is nice, but I thought if I had 5.29's I could get 35's with minor hassle.. I'm just worried I'll start breaking CV's and stuff, I mostly do hill climbs, rock ledges, trails, and a little mud, but sometimes I beat on my truck pretty hard.. I'm not for sure that the extra 1" of differential clearance would gain me much other then more money outta my pocket, and more chances of flopping due to bigger lift. I think my money would be better well spent on a rear locker, any input?
#2
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SAS the thing! Youll be destoying that IFS the first time out with them 35's for what it sounds like you do ide get a SFA under it and not pay another cent on the IFS
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You have similar aspirations as I, but it appears you're going about it from the opposite direction that I am. I'm looking for a high-speed / desert / dune type truck.
I've got a 4" (confirmed- procomp stage II) susp lift and want 35's. So I'm planning on regearing to 5.29 for the larger tires. I'm also planning on doing a long-travel addition to my bracket lift (likely Total Chaos), T100 rear axle, a mild shackle lift with blocks and traction bars on the rear....
... doing it all without a body lift.
Kinda sucks... when I'm working, the pockets are deep, but when I'm not working I'm scouring for change from wishing wells.
Good luck. I'd like to hear about what you do.
and there's that whole Sin91 truck I have to deal with....
I've got a 4" (confirmed- procomp stage II) susp lift and want 35's. So I'm planning on regearing to 5.29 for the larger tires. I'm also planning on doing a long-travel addition to my bracket lift (likely Total Chaos), T100 rear axle, a mild shackle lift with blocks and traction bars on the rear....
... doing it all without a body lift.
Kinda sucks... when I'm working, the pockets are deep, but when I'm not working I'm scouring for change from wishing wells.
Good luck. I'd like to hear about what you do.
and there's that whole Sin91 truck I have to deal with....
Last edited by abecedarian; 10-05-2008 at 04:24 PM.
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Who are we to tell him what his priorities should be. Most all of us did something that did not make sense to other people and we either had fun or learned a lesson from it. Ahh, who cares. I'm just grumpy because I have a toothache...
Last edited by Yodaforce; 10-05-2008 at 04:48 PM.
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#9
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No time for SAS this is my DD... and the waterpump is out on the Tacoma. SAS=1500$ with trail gear kit BJ spacers & shackles= 250$ I don't rock crawl it, so WHY do I need a SFA. I mean it would be nice, but I don't NEED it.
#12
You don't NEED it but with ifs and 35s and the fact that you said you beat on it pretty hard you'll quickly spend as much on CVs as a SAS would cost you... Just my input.
#14
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I have 4" Pro Comp Stage II Mickey Thompson Classic II's 3.75 BS with no body lift and trimmed the pinch welds but at full lock still get rubbing and the same with big bumps a body and or bj spacers will be the next , manual locks are your friend for this set up and as for cv's mine are almost flat just like stock and have not had any issues with breakage.
Last edited by olharleyman; 10-05-2008 at 06:28 PM.
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Well I'm gonna wheel it until I think I can't get any farther and make my decision, theres only one area at my ORV park I can't hack through and thats cause I have IFS and don't want body damage.. I'm sure lockers/armor/gears are MUCH more important then larger tires obviously, but I DO like the monster truck look hehe..
#16
if you want larger tires, DO IT!
I wanted 5:29s lsd's front and rear and 33's did it. Climbs like a monster, now I want 35's so Im doing a lift!
Just do it! They will work with a sas if you decide to later!
I wanted 5:29s lsd's front and rear and 33's did it. Climbs like a monster, now I want 35's so Im doing a lift!
Just do it! They will work with a sas if you decide to later!
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I have 4" Pro Comp Stage II Mickey Thompson Classic II's 3.75 BS with no body lift and trimmed the pinch welds but at full lock still get rubbing and the same with big bumps a body and or bj spacers will be the next , manual locks are your friend for this set up and as for cv's mine are almost flat just like stock and have not had any issues with breakage.
Well I'm gonna wheel it until I think I can't get any farther and make my decision, theres only one area at my ORV park I can't hack through and thats cause I have IFS and don't want body damage.. I'm sure lockers/armor/gears are MUCH more important then larger tires obviously, but I DO like the monster truck look hehe..
The Force wants it's sliders back.
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For any serious wheeling... I would never shove a 35" tire on IFS. My opinion, but every single wheeling trip I go on, I cook at LEAST an idler arm...then go tie rod ends, balljoints.. up to 33" tires, its bearable..after that. No.
And I think you're gonna need more then 3" body lift and bj spacers for 35x12.50's I dunno how the heck you guys dont rub, but with all my lift I still rub when flexed out.
And I think you're gonna need more then 3" body lift and bj spacers for 35x12.50's I dunno how the heck you guys dont rub, but with all my lift I still rub when flexed out.
Last edited by Jay351; 10-05-2008 at 09:40 PM.
#20
For any serious wheeling... I would never shove a 35" tire on IFS. My opinion, but every single wheeling trip I go on, I cook at LEAST an idler arm...then go tie rod ends, balljoints.. up to 33" tires, its bearable..after that. No.
And I think you're gonna need more then 3" body lift and bj spacers for 35x12.50's I dunno how the heck you guys dont rub, but with all my lift I still rub when flexed out.
And I think you're gonna need more then 3" body lift and bj spacers for 35x12.50's I dunno how the heck you guys dont rub, but with all my lift I still rub when flexed out.
Is that the OE idler arm, or the short shaft you had on last spring? You have an idler arm brace, so does the brace bend as well, or does it just eat the bushings?
Last edited by Matt16; 10-05-2008 at 11:25 PM.