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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 12-29-2005, 05:35 PM   #1
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How to set v6 @ TDC with timming belt off?

Just for the hell of it, how would one go at getting the cams and crank lined up at TDC with out a timming belt being on previously?

Just wondering.
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:08 PM   #2
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I think you would pull the #1 plug and watch for the cylinder to come to TDC, then align the marks on the cam pulleys with the marks on the head.

Would it matter if you lined it up after the compression or the exhaust stroke?
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:26 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc
Would it matter if you lined it up after the compression or the exhaust stroke?
From my noob knowledge of mechanics, I am going to say that it doesn't matter, because you should be putting your cams at 0 and the cylinder at TDC. Someone correct me
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:50 PM   #4
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the cam pulleys should only go on in one position and be marked for TDC, or at least they have been on the motors ive worked on, for the crank just put a socket extension in and turn it till it reaches the highest level
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc
Would it matter if you lined it up after the compression or the exhaust stroke?
Hmmm, if there is no timing belt, the distributor isn't rotating, so it probably wouldn't matter. Just make sure you set the dist so the rotor is pointing to #1 on compression stroke afterward.

So to answer the first question, I would:

-Rotate the crank until the mark on the pulley lines up with 0 degrees on it's counter part.

-Take a peek at the rotor, make sure it's pointing at #1 - or (if your distributor is removed) remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the hole, rotate crank to 0 degrees, if you feel a blast of air go past your finger you are on TDC of the compression stroke(good), if you feel no blast you are on the exhuast stroke (rotate once more). make sure crank is at 0 before moving on.

-Line up each cam.

- replace distributor with rotor pointing at #1 spark wire. (if needed)
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Last edited by ChickenLover; 12-29-2005 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 12-29-2005, 07:57 PM   #6
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Both cam sprockets have timing marks on them that corrispond to a mark on the plate behind the sprockets. The marks point up. If the lower timing belt cover is on then line up the notch on the crank pulley to 0 on the cover. If the lower cover is off there is a mark on the lower timing belt pulley that lines up with a mark in the oil pump housing. If all these marks are lined up you can't screw anything up with the timing.
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Old 12-29-2005, 08:11 PM   #7
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I will back up Manson's statement. I had my second timing belt come apart while traveling 75 on the freeway. After I got it home and cleaned up, lined up the arrows and put the new timing belt on. All has been good ever since.
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:23 PM   #8
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Interesting. I forgot about the marks on the cam pulleys and the 3rd cover. Wouldn't you have to be a bit carefull on rotating the crankshaft since the 3.0 is an interference engine?
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:26 PM   #9
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im almost positive the 3.0 isnt an interference engine.... so nope, no worries
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:32 PM   #10
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no i dont think so,
i just rebuilt my 3vze and lined up the bottem pully, both cams are lined up and i put everything back together and now it wont start ?
how can i tell if im either 180* out or on the exhaust stroke?
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Old 05-10-2010, 08:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9four4runner View Post
no i dont think so,
i just rebuilt my 3vze and lined up the bottem pully, both cams are lined up and i put everything back together and now it wont start ?
how can i tell if im either 180* out or on the exhaust stroke?

this one looks pretty good ..


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChickenLover View Post
Hmmm, if there is no timing belt, the distributor isn't rotating, so it probably wouldn't matter. Just make sure you set the dist so the rotor is pointing to #1 on compression stroke afterward.

So to answer the first question, I would:

-Rotate the crank until the mark on the pulley lines up with 0 degrees on it's counter part.

-Take a peek at the rotor, make sure it's pointing at #1 - or (if your distributor is removed) remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the hole, rotate crank to 0 degrees, if you feel a blast of air go past your finger you are on TDC of the compression stroke(good), if you feel no blast you are on the exhuast stroke (rotate once more). make sure crank is at 0 before moving on.

-Line up each cam.

- replace distributor with rotor pointing at #1 spark wire. (if needed)
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:01 AM   #12
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If you line up the crank pulley and cam pulleys with their marks, you are by definition at TDC of the compression stroke. There is no possible way (unless something is broken bad) for any other option. With all the pulleys correctly lined up, follow the FSM procedure for installing the distributor and you will be set.

The 3.0 is not an interference engine so no worries on damage when rotating the crank or cam.

Take care
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Old 05-11-2010, 08:26 PM   #13
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ok so i tore it down reset the crank to 0 and the top gears alinged and restabed the dis. but she wont start?
i dont get it shell turn over i get spark and gas but no start
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Old 05-11-2010, 09:44 PM   #14
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Silly, Wild-Ass Guess, but are you sure you are not 180 degrees off on your timing? As you know, the crankshaft turns twice for each time the camshafts turn once. So, when the crankshaft pulley's mark is lined up with the corresponding line on the motor (or oil pump I think it might be,) you only have a 50/50 chance of the No. 1 cylinder being at the top of its compression stroke...which is where it must be.

RMA provides a prior post above by ChickenLover wherein he provides the 'Betty Crocker' on how to ensure this is indeed the situation. If you followed that recipe, the crankshaft is in time with the cams...if not, it could be 180 degrees off. Aplogolies if I am covering old ground.
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Old 05-12-2010, 06:35 AM   #15
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thanks Lex ill double check it right now ill retear her down again
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