How heavy is a short bed?
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How heavy is a short bed?
Ok, so I'm wondering about how heavy an '84 single cab's short bed is.
Cause I took off my bed to make a flatbed, and got a real bad vibration noise that I originally thought was tranny or tcase related. But now I'm thinking that since I took off the bed, I changed the pinion angle because of the lack of weight.
And since I still need to make a bed, and the two driveshaft shops I called wanted to charge me $250-300 to make my driveshaft a two-piece, I'd figured I'd just make a flatbed that weighs about the same, making it sit the same height, making the noise go away. So...
Cause I took off my bed to make a flatbed, and got a real bad vibration noise that I originally thought was tranny or tcase related. But now I'm thinking that since I took off the bed, I changed the pinion angle because of the lack of weight.
And since I still need to make a bed, and the two driveshaft shops I called wanted to charge me $250-300 to make my driveshaft a two-piece, I'd figured I'd just make a flatbed that weighs about the same, making it sit the same height, making the noise go away. So...
#2
maybe 200lbs with the tailgate. I swapped beds on my old '84 and two of us were able to move it around easily in my opinion..what not put some weight back on the back of the truck and see if your vibration/noise goes away? that would confirm or deny your lost weight theory...
edit: the Drive shaft shops want to make it a 2 piece shaft? where are they going to mount the carrier bearing? That makes no sense to me to put one on a short bed...see a third shop...
edit: the Drive shaft shops want to make it a 2 piece shaft? where are they going to mount the carrier bearing? That makes no sense to me to put one on a short bed...see a third shop...
Last edited by dropzone; 09-16-2008 at 04:40 PM.
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my only worry is that even if you got the flat bed to squat the truck back down to get rid of the vibration, when the rear end droops out, you might find that you might need the two piece drive shaft anyway. You also could cut axle flanges away from the housing and rotate the differential upward to get a better pinion angle.
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Well actually I'm wondering if it's the pinion angle or the tcase angle... I dunnnnnnnno.........
Cause if it's the tcase angle, shims won't do much to solve the problem I don't think.
Cause if it's the tcase angle, shims won't do much to solve the problem I don't think.
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actually, if the pinion angle is tipped down, it would pull the driveshaft downward and a little bit forward making the tcase angle worse. the shim would pull the pinion upwards more inline with the tcase output and also raising the driveshaft.
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true, but how much does it sag when the bed is on it? get a big buddy of yours to sit on the back of the truck and see how much it changes the angle. I would be interested to know. when the truck droops out and the pinion is low, he probably will still have the problem.
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Yeah, I figured it had something to do with weight. But then again, who's to say what my springs and shocks are "tuned" to, they aint stock. 5" trailgear springs and extended shackles, 14" rear Bilsteins with 275/78 valving.
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Ok, got a brain tickler for someone. I'm at work and I wanna pick up some lumber to make a quick flatbed (some plywood and 2x4's for support) so I can throw some weight in there and figure it out. But since I'm not near the yota, I can't get the measurements.
I know the front two body mounts for the bed are a couple of inches shorter than that place where the framerails hump over the wheels, the slopes back down, and the rear most bed body mounts are maybe a half an inch shorter than the "frame hump"...
Anyone with the bed off feel like being a huge help and grabbing some measurements for me?
I know the front two body mounts for the bed are a couple of inches shorter than that place where the framerails hump over the wheels, the slopes back down, and the rear most bed body mounts are maybe a half an inch shorter than the "frame hump"...
Anyone with the bed off feel like being a huge help and grabbing some measurements for me?
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Wow I was close. I figured 4'x5' and it's gonna be 5'9"x3'10".
But if anyone wants to know how to make a super cheap flatbed, give me a few and I'll have pictures up shortly.
$10 - 4'x8'x19/32" plywood
$5 - 16' 2x4
$5 - 5/8"x3" hex bolts x6
$1 - 5/8" hex nuts x6
$1 - 5/8"x1 1/2" washer x6
$4 - 5/8" wood bore drill bit
Under $30 with tax.
1.) Cut plywood sheet to 5'9"x3'10"
2.) Cut 2x4 to three pieces 3'10" long
3.) Lay the three 2x4s laterally over the body mount tabs, mark bottom of wood through the hole, and drill your holes for the bolts.
4.) Lay the plyboard over the 2x4s, mark bottome of wood through the holes, and drill your holes bolts.
5.) Bolt it all together
--
6.) Drink a few cans outta the 24 you bought before hand.
6.5) Almost summon the motivation to start again, but realize you need to drink more beer.
--
7.) Put tranny, transfercase, rear 3rd member, and driveshafts back on truck.
8.) Load 300lbs worth of metal on the new flatbed
9.) Test drive the junk, hoping that it was the weight that caused your pinion angle to change, thus making noise.
10.) Call up your friend to start fabbing you up a flatbed out of some 1/2" sheet and 2"x4" channel (to match the wood flatbed template you just made)
11.) Drink more beer.
But if anyone wants to know how to make a super cheap flatbed, give me a few and I'll have pictures up shortly.
$10 - 4'x8'x19/32" plywood
$5 - 16' 2x4
$5 - 5/8"x3" hex bolts x6
$1 - 5/8" hex nuts x6
$1 - 5/8"x1 1/2" washer x6
$4 - 5/8" wood bore drill bit
Under $30 with tax.
1.) Cut plywood sheet to 5'9"x3'10"
2.) Cut 2x4 to three pieces 3'10" long
3.) Lay the three 2x4s laterally over the body mount tabs, mark bottom of wood through the hole, and drill your holes for the bolts.
4.) Lay the plyboard over the 2x4s, mark bottome of wood through the holes, and drill your holes bolts.
5.) Bolt it all together
--
6.) Drink a few cans outta the 24 you bought before hand.
6.5) Almost summon the motivation to start again, but realize you need to drink more beer.
--
7.) Put tranny, transfercase, rear 3rd member, and driveshafts back on truck.
8.) Load 300lbs worth of metal on the new flatbed
9.) Test drive the junk, hoping that it was the weight that caused your pinion angle to change, thus making noise.
10.) Call up your friend to start fabbing you up a flatbed out of some 1/2" sheet and 2"x4" channel (to match the wood flatbed template you just made)
11.) Drink more beer.
Last edited by SwampThing; 09-17-2008 at 01:30 PM.
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And those are the steps to make you a cheap flatbed. Steps 6-11 are optional, but if you're like me they're not so optional.
And just so yall know, I'm still at step one lol. Trying to find my safety glasses, drill charger, and circ saw...
And just so yall know, I'm still at step one lol. Trying to find my safety glasses, drill charger, and circ saw...
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Well, have some changes. Increased bed length to 63.75" so I can add another "crossbar". But, now that I'm adding another one I have to go back to home depot and get another couple of bolts washers and nuts.
Almost done. Kinda sucked though cause I couldn't find my circ saw, and my skill/jig saw pooped out half way through, so I had to use my sawsall lol. That and the gf brought chinese food so I had to take a break for chow (no pun intended)...
But I'll probably have pics up in another hour or so.
Almost done. Kinda sucked though cause I couldn't find my circ saw, and my skill/jig saw pooped out half way through, so I had to use my sawsall lol. That and the gf brought chinese food so I had to take a break for chow (no pun intended)...
But I'll probably have pics up in another hour or so.
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And I found out those shims are like $50... I think I'll just buy some shorter shackles. Think that'd accomplish the same thing, and would be easier and safer.
Lol, yeah I said it. Safer
Edit: Think I'm gonna make a new thread for the flatbed build. This is actually a great idea for someone who wants to build one for uber cheap...
Lol, yeah I said it. Safer
Edit: Think I'm gonna make a new thread for the flatbed build. This is actually a great idea for someone who wants to build one for uber cheap...
Last edited by SwampThing; 09-17-2008 at 04:30 PM.