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How heavy is a short bed?

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Old 09-16-2008, 04:33 PM
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How heavy is a short bed?

Ok, so I'm wondering about how heavy an '84 single cab's short bed is.

Cause I took off my bed to make a flatbed, and got a real bad vibration noise that I originally thought was tranny or tcase related. But now I'm thinking that since I took off the bed, I changed the pinion angle because of the lack of weight.

And since I still need to make a bed, and the two driveshaft shops I called wanted to charge me $250-300 to make my driveshaft a two-piece, I'd figured I'd just make a flatbed that weighs about the same, making it sit the same height, making the noise go away. So...
Old 09-16-2008, 04:37 PM
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maybe 200lbs with the tailgate. I swapped beds on my old '84 and two of us were able to move it around easily in my opinion..what not put some weight back on the back of the truck and see if your vibration/noise goes away? that would confirm or deny your lost weight theory...

edit: the Drive shaft shops want to make it a 2 piece shaft? where are they going to mount the carrier bearing? That makes no sense to me to put one on a short bed...see a third shop...

Last edited by dropzone; 09-16-2008 at 04:40 PM.
Old 09-16-2008, 04:40 PM
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Why not get some shims for the rear leafs? In anycase, I could easily lift one side of the bed, im assuming around 300-350lbs?
Old 09-16-2008, 04:44 PM
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my only worry is that even if you got the flat bed to squat the truck back down to get rid of the vibration, when the rear end droops out, you might find that you might need the two piece drive shaft anyway. You also could cut axle flanges away from the housing and rotate the differential upward to get a better pinion angle.
Old 09-16-2008, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay351
Why not get some shims for the rear leafs? In anycase, I could easily lift one side of the bed, im assuming around 300-350lbs?
x2 shims are another option. good point.
Old 09-16-2008, 04:46 PM
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Well actually I'm wondering if it's the pinion angle or the tcase angle... I dunnnnnnnno.........

Cause if it's the tcase angle, shims won't do much to solve the problem I don't think.
Old 09-16-2008, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SwampThing
Well actually I'm wondering if it's the pinion angle or the tcase angle... I dunnnnnnnno.........

Cause if it's the tcase angle, shims won't do much to solve the problem I don't think.
actually, if the pinion angle is tipped down, it would pull the driveshaft downward and a little bit forward making the tcase angle worse. the shim would pull the pinion upwards more inline with the tcase output and also raising the driveshaft.
Old 09-16-2008, 04:58 PM
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Goood point. Where to find these shims... At lease it'll probably be a cheap idea to test right?
Old 09-16-2008, 05:00 PM
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It's weight ...

stock bed with gate will run 300LBS ... springs and shocks are "tuned" to this weight ..

without the weight .. they dont work right !!!
Old 09-16-2008, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by slacker
It's weight ...

stock bed with gate will run 300LBS ... springs and shocks are "tuned" to this weight ..

without the weight .. they dont work right !!!
true, but how much does it sag when the bed is on it? get a big buddy of yours to sit on the back of the truck and see how much it changes the angle. I would be interested to know. when the truck droops out and the pinion is low, he probably will still have the problem.
Old 09-16-2008, 05:09 PM
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It might be related to the huge amount of lift you got to....
Old 09-16-2008, 05:09 PM
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Yeah, I figured it had something to do with weight. But then again, who's to say what my springs and shocks are "tuned" to, they aint stock. 5" trailgear springs and extended shackles, 14" rear Bilsteins with 275/78 valving.
Old 09-16-2008, 05:10 PM
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And yeah, I'm all of 250lbs and with me jumping on the framerails without the bed on, it maybe squats a half inch.
Old 09-17-2008, 11:20 AM
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Ok, got a brain tickler for someone. I'm at work and I wanna pick up some lumber to make a quick flatbed (some plywood and 2x4's for support) so I can throw some weight in there and figure it out. But since I'm not near the yota, I can't get the measurements.

I know the front two body mounts for the bed are a couple of inches shorter than that place where the framerails hump over the wheels, the slopes back down, and the rear most bed body mounts are maybe a half an inch shorter than the "frame hump"...

Anyone with the bed off feel like being a huge help and grabbing some measurements for me?
Old 09-17-2008, 01:27 PM
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Wow I was close. I figured 4'x5' and it's gonna be 5'9"x3'10".

But if anyone wants to know how to make a super cheap flatbed, give me a few and I'll have pictures up shortly.

$10 - 4'x8'x19/32" plywood
$5 - 16' 2x4
$5 - 5/8"x3" hex bolts x6
$1 - 5/8" hex nuts x6
$1 - 5/8"x1 1/2" washer x6
$4 - 5/8" wood bore drill bit
Under $30 with tax.

1.) Cut plywood sheet to 5'9"x3'10"
2.) Cut 2x4 to three pieces 3'10" long
3.) Lay the three 2x4s laterally over the body mount tabs, mark bottom of wood through the hole, and drill your holes for the bolts.
4.) Lay the plyboard over the 2x4s, mark bottome of wood through the holes, and drill your holes bolts.
5.) Bolt it all together
--
6.) Drink a few cans outta the 24 you bought before hand.
6.5) Almost summon the motivation to start again, but realize you need to drink more beer.
--
7.) Put tranny, transfercase, rear 3rd member, and driveshafts back on truck.
8.) Load 300lbs worth of metal on the new flatbed
9.) Test drive the junk, hoping that it was the weight that caused your pinion angle to change, thus making noise.
10.) Call up your friend to start fabbing you up a flatbed out of some 1/2" sheet and 2"x4" channel (to match the wood flatbed template you just made)

11.) Drink more beer.

Last edited by SwampThing; 09-17-2008 at 01:30 PM.
Old 09-17-2008, 01:30 PM
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And those are the steps to make you a cheap flatbed. Steps 6-11 are optional, but if you're like me they're not so optional.

And just so yall know, I'm still at step one lol. Trying to find my safety glasses, drill charger, and circ saw...
Old 09-17-2008, 03:25 PM
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Well, have some changes. Increased bed length to 63.75" so I can add another "crossbar". But, now that I'm adding another one I have to go back to home depot and get another couple of bolts washers and nuts.

Almost done. Kinda sucked though cause I couldn't find my circ saw, and my skill/jig saw pooped out half way through, so I had to use my sawsall lol. That and the gf brought chinese food so I had to take a break for chow (no pun intended)...

But I'll probably have pics up in another hour or so.
Old 09-17-2008, 04:21 PM
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Ahhh redneck riggin at it's best right here.













I ended up dove-tailing it too. Lmao...
Old 09-17-2008, 04:23 PM
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And I found out those shims are like $50... I think I'll just buy some shorter shackles. Think that'd accomplish the same thing, and would be easier and safer.


Lol, yeah I said it. Safer


Edit: Think I'm gonna make a new thread for the flatbed build. This is actually a great idea for someone who wants to build one for uber cheap...

Last edited by SwampThing; 09-17-2008 at 04:30 PM.
Old 09-17-2008, 04:49 PM
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how long .. actually .. do you think that "chip" board is going to last ?


.. uber cheep is right !!
I think it's just wrong ......

.


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