iliketoyota

My heater is at about 110f at idle, then will get to about 120 after driving for 5 minutes or so. Then after 30 minutes or so it will get to 135f. The heater core flows well and I have flushed it multiple times but have only got small flakes of gaskets once or twice. The blend door is for sure working. I was thinking since the heat works better at 2500+ rpms that the water pump may be bad. Temp goes to halfway and has a new dual stage thermostat too. I'm just confused at why the heat isn't getting to 170 or so when the heater core isn't clogged at all.

seabee 86

Are the too and from hoses to your heater core both hot?

seabee 86

Good way to verify a free flowing heater core. I only ask because out sounds very much like you need a new one.

iliketoyota

they are both hot but get hotter if it is revved. When i flushed it with a hose there was very little resistance to the flow. I had the hose on probably 75% of the way and it flowed fine. I flushed it both ways also.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Itis possible you have a air pocket in there someplace .

If this is a 22r series engine I have seen they are real picky as to your coolant level and heat output .

The valve on the firewall working correct ??

Did you replace the hoses while you were doing all the flushing etc.

Just how hot do you want your heater ??

If your water pump is on the way out the bearing is what fails and most often you get a leak out the weep hole do you see any sign of that ?

Are you losing any coolant at all??

iliketoyota

no loosing coolant. And i have thought about an air bubble and tried bleeding it by putting the front end up in the air and running it with the heater on for 10 minutes or so and i didnt get any air bubbles. yes the valve is working. My dads 1996 camry with 220,000 on the original heater core blows 175 F heat so i should be much closer to that. Mine doesnt get over 110 till i am almost 20 minutes into the drive on cold mornings.

i just replaced the head (overheated it after coolant line broke) and replaced all of the hoses, heater was the same way before and after BTW

I have looked at many threads (it is a 22re btw) and i bled it the way i have read about and still no change. When i first drove it after the head replacement it had no head at all and i bled it some more and got it up to 120-130 degrees. But there may be more air in there i am just unable to get out. Any suggestions? It takes 30 minutes when it is below freezing for it to warm up in there. The heat should be much better than it is.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Do you have AC. I had a runner without AC and just recently went thru something similar as your truck. Flushing didnt help.


If you dont have AC, the dust will go past where the condenser would be and clog your core on the outside.

Here is what mine looked like. Post #346 has more info https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...5/index14.html

Left is new, right is clogged with dust.

Pat8942

I'll bet putting a stock thermostat in will cure the problem.

iliketoyota

I have tried 2 Napa premium thermostats. It gets up to the halfway point in about 5 minutes like its supposed to. It is dual stage one with the second little valve.

iliketoyota

Yeah I have A/C

iliketoyota

Some more info, if I was coming up to a stop light with the heat on. When I press the clutch and let it idle the heater temp will drop to just lukewarm.

junkyardog05

Sounds like to me that the fins may be gone off of your water pump impeller. I would try a new pump. Under $20 for a new one.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just where do you live and how Cold is the ambient temperature??

I was quite happy the air coming out the defrost melted the ice during the winter that is all I use. Just the defroster setting .

iliketoyota

That's what I was thinking but it never gets over halfway on the gauge even in 90f+ temps

iliketoyota

About 30-40 degrees. But like i said my dads Camry blows at least 175f when mine may only be 110f or 120f when its that cold.

rworegon

Is it possible you have a flap in the duct work under the dash stuck open diluting the heat with ambient temp air?

iliketoyota

I can hear the door slap open and closed and confirmed it is connected to both the control lever and door linkage.

j2the-e

Really sounds like an air pocket. A no-spill funnel that attaches to the radiator neck helps. Put the funnel on, let it warm up a bit with the heater on hot/high, then hold engine at 2500 rpm for 30 seconds and idle for 30 sec. Go back and forth for about 5 minutes and periodically squeeze the air out of the upper hose. Let it idle for a couple minutes and repeat if necessary. A blanket over the grille will speed up the process, just keep an eye on the temp gauge.

jerry507

If your temp gauge is sitting right where it's supposed to, then the coolant is at the right temp. That gauge reads a fairly narrow maybe 50-60F range before pegging at top or bottom. If your hoses are hot too then your problem has to be on the heater side I'd say. Focus your attention there and really rip into everything. 5 minutes for the temp and 30 min for the heater, your heater is messed up but your engine cooling system sure isn't...

iliketoyota

Its actually about 1-2 millimeters from the center of the gauge. But when I've put 2 thermostats I don't know when it wouldn't be running at the right temp. They are both 195 thermostats.