ovrrdrive

FYI, and as already mentioned, 22RE head bolts are NOT TTY bolts like the 3vze from what I understand.

I reused mine about 5k ago and haven't blown up yet...

ShortyzKustomz

I havent got it yet, I am going to try to get it all done this weekend. Its raining now, and I havent found anything to make the homemade thread cleaner, I dont have access to much tools since I moved. An old fart at work keeps telling me to use a washer on top and let it go. I keep telling him to just stop talking, haha

Jim, where in Petersburg are you, I live in Chesterfield/Southside right off Rt 60

ShortyzKustomz

Also cleaning bolts is easy for me, I do powdercoating and ceramic coating and such for work, I can just sandblast them. Also like you said above, I already used copper seal and got everything all aligned, I dont wanna risk messing up a $45 Toyotas Factory head gasket

slamigo

just get a tap and die. Total cost of about $10. Chase the threads and use the die to clean the bolts. The 22RE bolts are reusable - Toyota parts guy reassured me of this.

dcg9381

There is a debate on the reusability of the head bolts. You get to decide on your own!

Cleaning your bolts is half the solution. You should probably clean the threads in the block also. Cleaning them leaves crap in those holes (unless you can invert the motor). Best to clean them, then blow them out (a few times) with compressed air.

ShortyzKustomz

I dont have compressed air where the truck is at, Im used to having what I need around, now Im renting and living in a subdivision so Im sure the neighbors already love my truck and the parts laying all around it.

ShortyzKustomz

I already said I really dont want to take the head back off if at all possible, since the headgasket is already sealed, and taking a head on and off around a timing chain is VERY difficult by yourself, (Especially when your 5'3 and have a slightly lifted truck) And Im afraid I'll mess up the headgasket and or timing chain/guides. This is my first time doing anything on a Toyota so its a major learning process and has been almost a month since my truck went down

DudeBud

then get a can of compressed air. any computer store has it.

ShortyzKustomz

Good call! You guys are great. I hope to find a way to make the thread chaser tomorrow, and get it back together

ovrrdrive

I vacuumed my holes out...

They were full of oil, antifreeze and whatever else so I took a small rubber hose and taped it in the vac hose and sucked it all out.

toyota_mdt_tech

First off, you did good by replacing those 2 head bolts. Most 22R's will need these new headbolts between the exhaust ports. You should of chased the threads, but the head is on now, so the super easy fix is to cut slots in the threads of one of the old bolts (lengthwise) to make the old bolt look like a tap. Put about 6 flutes in it. Now some light lube, chase the threads. Go in, the back off, and in some more till its all the way done. Need to find a way to clear the hole. A blow nozzle with a small rubber hose attatched? Lower it into the bottom of the hole and blow out the debris/

foot0069

Damn Shorty, nothin worse than being so close to done and gettin hung up! I'm 5 min off 95 at exit 50. I have some old head bolts here that I'll cut for ya if you like and get em to ya tommorow or maybe later today, have to cut the foundation for a shop my buddy and i are building this morning will send you my cell number in an email. If you havent torqued the head yet I dont think you would hurt the gasket to pull it off. But you did start that didnt you? If you only pulled a couple to the first step I'd still pull it off. Do you have a vacuum cleaner that will let you hook the hose to the blow side, if so you could use that to blow the holes out or maybe a can of co2 that you get to clean a compuyer out that would work good I think. Call me leave a message I'll be in Waverly so the phone prolly wont work.
Jim

ShortyzKustomz

I GOT IT!! After looking for taps and stuff everywhere I gave up on that, Decided to try a new idea, I bough a small brass wire brush, It was skinney, with a long thick wire handle. I filled the hole with carb cleaner, Then went down in the hole with the brush. I did this a few times, and bough a magnet, on a bendable handle, that was just a tad smaller then the hole, Put this down in there and was pulling out big clumps of stuff, Did this 4 times, Then wire brush then magnet again. Then blew it out with compressed air (in a can) and then tried the new bolt, It hand tightened all the way down and torqued the same as the others, Now... I cant find the spacer that goes on the end of the cam between the end of the cam/sprocket and the fuel pump drive. Also missing a bolt off the plate that goes on the back of the head. I got all my exhaust studs in and the header on. So now all I got is this cam/spacer, cleaning the intake and getting it back on, Then all the accessories, dist., fuel pump, and valve cover, Vaccum lines and wires hooked back up, And driving it to the exhaust shop open header

foot0069

Good job! Where theres a will theres a way hunh.
Jim

ShortyzKustomz

Ok, next problem, lol Is there anyway to get the hookup for the heater hose on with the intake already on. Im talking about the little metal thing that bolts to the head between the intake ports

foot0069

Hey you get that thing together yet?
Jim

ShortyzKustomz

Nope, was gone all last weekend. I talked to a Toyota Master Tech today to find out about the heater line I asked about above and found out I have to take the intake all the way back off to get that on, Of course I tore the intake gasket while taking the intake back off, So I gotta buy a new intake to head gasket, Get that heater line and the box it connects to bolted to the head, then the intake back on, 2 exhaust bolts, Adjust valves, valve cover back on ( I powdercoated it at work 2 tone) Fan back on and my new radiator in, Then start it, adjust the valves again warm and drive it open header to the exhaust shop

foot0069

Yeah its always sumptin aint it. Good deal!!

ToyotaGuru

Regardless of Torque to Yield or not all head bolts will stretch and weaken.
Typically weakning on the exhaust side close to a heat source. The bigger problem with reusing head bolts is typically the head is shaved and thus making the total difference from the head bolt surface to the block longer. Therfefore, you are going to lose some clamping force due to the resurfacing .005, .010, or .020 etc. Remember head bolts (not studs) are designed to stretch and apply clamping force to the threads in the block which makes it vital to ensure a clean threads in the block.

My Rules
1 - Always chase the the threads with a tap and a little grease to collect the debris, I use anti-sieze

2 - Never install any bolt with out some lubrication 30W motor is the best IMO. Most bolt manufactures such as ARP will give you Tq specs for 30W or their own lube.

3 - If you have to shave the head, either get new bolts, thicker gasket, or cut the head bolts a couple threads to compensate.

4 - Go to the parts store and get the $30 Felpros and be done!

5 - Replace the bolts in a set, Not one or two. If you are going
to reuse them put them back in their orignial holes.

6 - 22R/22RE Head Bolts 58Ft/lbs.

7 - Never user Copper Coat on a gasket that does not require it, If is says dry put it on dry!

TNRabbit

What strange laws of physics make the head bolt surface-to-block get LONGER when you REMOVE material??!? If anything, it's the other way around...