Hard to turn engine over
12-30-2009, 01:21 PM
#1
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Hard to turn engine over
94 with a 3.0
As it sits now, all the plugs are pulled and all the belts off.
When I try and hit the starter, the engine barely wants to turn over, it is even hard by hand.
What is this a symptom of?
I can't seem to find anything related to this.
Thanks.
As it sits now, all the plugs are pulled and all the belts off.
When I try and hit the starter, the engine barely wants to turn over, it is even hard by hand.
What is this a symptom of?
I can't seem to find anything related to this.
Thanks.
12-30-2009, 01:51 PM
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It is in park.
What preceeded this, blown radiator hose.
Truck was shut down and coasted to a stop.
Coolant was sucked in the air intake and I found coolant in #4 cylinder and signs in most of the others. There is no coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant.
It also lifted the back of the driver's side cam cover up about 5/16" off the head.
What preceeded this, blown radiator hose.
Truck was shut down and coasted to a stop.
Coolant was sucked in the air intake and I found coolant in #4 cylinder and signs in most of the others. There is no coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant.
It also lifted the back of the driver's side cam cover up about 5/16" off the head.
12-30-2009, 02:33 PM
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When you say "by hand" do you mean you are trying to turn the crank pulley with only your hands? That would be next to impossible. Its still gonna be pretty hard with a ratchet unless you have a long ratchet/breaker bar.
Having a rad hose blow shouldnt cause any binding in the reciprocating mass of the engine. I could see if you ran it for a couple days with the crank case full of coolant. Then you would have a bunch of toasted bearings.
Hows your battery voltage? That would cause slow cranking, considering the circumstances.
And last question: what lifted the cam cover off the head? Cooling system and valve covers dont have anything to do with each other.
Having a rad hose blow shouldnt cause any binding in the reciprocating mass of the engine. I could see if you ran it for a couple days with the crank case full of coolant. Then you would have a bunch of toasted bearings.
Hows your battery voltage? That would cause slow cranking, considering the circumstances.
And last question: what lifted the cam cover off the head? Cooling system and valve covers dont have anything to do with each other.
12-30-2009, 04:18 PM
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I am turning it with a 1/2 breaker bar.
I have done the timing belt before and turning the engine was not this hard before.
Even with the battery hooked to my booster, it cranks hard.
All I know it that it suck antifreeze into the air intake, filter was soaked.
I have no idea what caused the cam cover to lift off.
I did not drain the oil and change it, there is no coolant in the oil on the dipstick.
I guess it would not hurt anything to change the oil.
I have done the timing belt before and turning the engine was not this hard before.
Even with the battery hooked to my booster, it cranks hard.
All I know it that it suck antifreeze into the air intake, filter was soaked.
I have no idea what caused the cam cover to lift off.
I did not drain the oil and change it, there is no coolant in the oil on the dipstick.
I guess it would not hurt anything to change the oil.
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12-30-2009, 05:07 PM
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12-30-2009, 06:41 PM
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Also, my pretty much new idler pully's don't spin as nicely now either!!
There is also oil mixed with gas running out of my throttle body, slowly but, it is there.
There is also oil mixed with gas running out of my throttle body, slowly but, it is there.
Last edited by WarnerConstInc.; 12-30-2009 at 08:23 PM.
12-31-2009, 04:06 PM
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An idea
Severely blown head gasket caused exhaust gas to enter cooling system and crank case. This scenario could allow the cooling system to be pressurized enough to blow the hose, let coolant into your oil and blow the valve cover off. I know you already said there is no coolant in your oil pan, but are you sure? Drain your oil into a clean container and inspect. You never answered my question about the valve cover anyway: what lifted it off of the head?
I just cant think of a reason a blown rad hose would lead to (what sounds like) toasted crank bearings. Unless you drove for a while after the hose blew and massively overheated it.
Severely blown head gasket caused exhaust gas to enter cooling system and crank case. This scenario could allow the cooling system to be pressurized enough to blow the hose, let coolant into your oil and blow the valve cover off. I know you already said there is no coolant in your oil pan, but are you sure? Drain your oil into a clean container and inspect. You never answered my question about the valve cover anyway: what lifted it off of the head?
I just cant think of a reason a blown rad hose would lead to (what sounds like) toasted crank bearings. Unless you drove for a while after the hose blew and massively overheated it.
12-31-2009, 04:39 PM
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I have no idea why valve cover lifted off. I just said it did.
I will drain the oil tonight, I have the top and front off of it.
It feels tight about at #6 tdc when I am turning it with a breaker bar.
I will drain the oil tonight, I have the top and front off of it.
It feels tight about at #6 tdc when I am turning it with a breaker bar.
12-31-2009, 05:14 PM
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It has about 170k on it and I got it with 130k one owner.
Front end has been re-done, all new timing componets, radiator, plugs, wires, cam plugs, all upper gaskets, I have done quite alot to this little guy.
Like I said, I am trying to make sure I have to pull this engine.
I guess crap happens huh?
12-31-2009, 05:21 PM
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It has been maintained well.
It has about 170k on it and I got it with 130k one owner.
Front end has been re-done, all new timing componets, radiator, plugs, wires, cam plugs, all upper gaskets, I have done quite alot to this little guy.
Like I said, I am trying to make sure I have to pull this engine.
I guess crap happens huh?
It has about 170k on it and I got it with 130k one owner.
Front end has been re-done, all new timing componets, radiator, plugs, wires, cam plugs, all upper gaskets, I have done quite alot to this little guy.
Like I said, I am trying to make sure I have to pull this engine.
I guess crap happens huh?
its time for a 3.4 swap
12-31-2009, 05:26 PM
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I would rather have the 3.4 still in the newer truck and not in this one.
We just dont want to buy anything newer untill march or april.
I also cant really see spending 700 bucks on having the heads redone and re-building the top end of this thing.
We just dont want to buy anything newer untill march or april.
I also cant really see spending 700 bucks on having the heads redone and re-building the top end of this thing.
12-31-2009, 06:19 PM
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find a used one that runs?
01-01-2010, 08:23 PM
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If you had coolant in your cylinders, it's possible you hydro-locked the motor while it was running, and bent a rod, and/or scored a cylinder, and now it's binding up.
01-02-2010, 05:16 AM
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get under your truck and pul the pan off.. and shine light up on the crank and rods you should see whats going on..
if it hydro locked you did bend a rod no doubt about..
and thats why you were talking about somthing bending up the valve cover..
if it hydro locked you did bend a rod no doubt about..
and thats why you were talking about somthing bending up the valve cover..
