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Frame Rot Repair

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Old 01-09-2011, 08:54 AM
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Thanks terry for an older, cheaper truck it is definately a head turner i see jeeps all day long but very very rarely do i see a toy of mines era in decent shape
Old 01-09-2011, 10:22 AM
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I had nowhere near that amount of rot, but in the front passenger side cab mount area I had a funky little hole show up when I was cleaning the rust scale off the frame. I don't have full on pics of my repair, but these three should give you an idea of the outcome.

Yikes:


Plate welded in and welds ground down. Don't want it noticeable that there was anything done to the frame:


Undercoat:
Old 01-09-2011, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Beaniam
I'd just cut that garbage off from the cab back and weld the good frame on instead of a total frame swap, save a lot of time and effort.
I can't think of a civil thing to say to this...

Except maybe this.

Originally Posted by ocdropzone
cab removal:
mark all connections and unplug all electrical
mark and unconnect brake lines (also check under the cab floor for various lines)
drain, remove radiator
undo the steering joint
unbolt the cab,
--reinspect everything because you will forget something
lift the cab off

Old 01-11-2011, 12:15 PM
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Okay so here's an update. I pulled the bed and the cab and got the frame inside. Fortunately the rear crossmember did a great job at stopping the rust from migrating forward. I'll have some better pics once I get a few lights fixed in the shop.

Also the cab came off with almost no problems d&^%&* f&*%&^ alternator wiring how did I miss you on my walk around.
Old 01-11-2011, 02:09 PM
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This is the only truly bad spot on my frame. Right where the passenger-side leaf hanger used to be. I just bought 2 3' lengths of 2.75" wide 3/16ths sheet to do the undersides of the frame rails on both sides in this area. Thankfully someone at some other point in some replated the inner sides on both rails already.


Oddly enough, despite 23 years in Ontario, most of the factory paint was still on the frame before I started stripping it to find soft spots and apply a new rust coat. The minor amount of damage I need to repair can probably be chocked up to the fact they don't salt the roads in rural areas.

Last edited by Magnusian; 01-11-2011 at 02:16 PM.
Old 01-11-2011, 09:45 PM
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my advice

rebuild the entire rear end of that frame

I have an 87 xtracab sr5 with a rotten frame, I've patched it many times, and there is almost no origional frame left lol

every season I get a new crack or hole or weak point, it just doesn't end

the amount of time and work i've put into this I could have built an entire frame by now. strangely enough, the frame under the cab is the only part I haven't replaced..

Theres a guy in town I met that built his own frame from the cab back
not only can you design it to last ( and end your rusty frame issues )
but you can customize it, different fuel cell, different location, different length.. hidden machine gun

just use your imagination
Old 01-11-2011, 10:33 PM
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Glad to see you making progress. Looking forward to see you getting it done. I do envy you welders. Thats next on my to learn list.
Old 01-12-2011, 03:07 AM
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HA, hidden machine gun!
Old 01-12-2011, 06:41 PM
  #29  
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Okay so all the body mounts are off, the grinding and surface prep is under way. I plan on doing POR-15 on the whole frame so I have a lot of surface to prep.

Casualties along the way:
3 brake lines from cab to chasis
clutch hydraulic line
front parking brake cable


Again pictures are on the way.
Old 01-13-2011, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by muddpigg
Thanks! I had seen this a while back, but couldn't find it again. I had some plating and patching to the frame done this past Summer then painted it with POR15. So far the POR15 is holding up as good as can be expected from all of the road salt they have been putting down since before Christmas. Unfortunately, the frame is rusting from the inside out and POR15'ing the inside isn't easy to do. I have located a junked 2WD with a solid frame. Maybe, just maybe I will buy it cut and splice.

Last edited by FleshThorn; 01-13-2011 at 04:58 PM.
Old 01-13-2011, 05:36 PM
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replacing the whole "back 1/2 " - using a Z to splice in the new one , might be an Idea !!!


.
Old 02-13-2011, 08:08 PM
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I dont aim to hi jack the thread, but I am kinda in the same boat here.... My frame is shot from the cab back on my 94 regular cab 4x4..... I found a guy with a '87 2x4 Ex cab that the frame is in perfect condition but motor and trans are shot.... said he will take a hundred bucks for it, will the back half of the frame from the 87 work on my 94....
Old 02-14-2011, 05:32 AM
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You have access to this:

and want to use it in place of this:

Last edited by fierohink; 02-14-2011 at 05:41 AM.
Old 02-14-2011, 05:40 AM
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As you can see the structure for the front end is totally different on the 2x4, plus there are no perches for the torsion bar suspension along the inside of the framerail, and the rear crossmember hoop near the last cab mount will be in the wrong place.

The cab might fit, but you will have to move the rear most cab mount from the 2x4 -xtra forward to where a standard cab mount would be. You have to swap crossmembers, too. The good news is the cab should fit, unless there was a size difference in model years from 87 to 94 because there is no difference based on xtra v. standard cab or 2wd v 4wd.

Last edited by fierohink; 02-14-2011 at 05:49 AM.
Old 02-14-2011, 07:10 AM
  #35  
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To the OP's problem, I restored a rusted out in-ground storm shelter by patching and it was probably more work than building a new one from scratch. I originally saw about 10-12 small holes but after sandblasting it down to clean metal there were 1000s of holes.

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