jungle_runner

also, there is white smoke coming from the engine on the exhaust side ... i thought it may just be the white lithium lube i used in the oil pump burning off, but it is staying pretty consistent, especially when the engine is rev'd ... the white smoke is coming out of the tail pipe too

also, if i press the gas pedal and hold it at a constant position ... the engine revs but then tappers off until it dies ... it's like i have to keep pumping it to keep the engine going ... once it warms up, i can hold it at a constant rpm

off to get some carb cleaner

aviator

Video sounded like you had a little toyota diesel in there lol...
maybe you could post another quick video showing the leak smoke you're talking about?

jungle_runner

pulled the codes, just getting 51 ... now let me see what that is ... google search says TPS ...

i noticed on 4crawler's page a post that mentions that can cause poor idle, engine stall, and inability to set timing ... maybe the jolt through that out of wack too

algranger

Urban wheeling FOR THE WIN!!!! Lockers help

jungle_runner

started testing the TPS using the guidelines provided here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

but i am getting an open circuit (1) on the first test with the throttle all the way closed ... the ohm meter gives a reading for a split second (varying between 70 to 150 ohms) and then just shows 1 ... here is the settings i am using on the ohm meter (it's set at 200):


when i change to a different setting such as 2k or 20k i get decimal read outs such as .534, i believe that 200 is the right reading range since i am looking for a ohm reading of 200-800 for the first test

so is my TPS completely bad? i'm getting diagnostic code 51
do i need a new one or can this one be serviced?

thanks

jungle_runner

yeah ... concrete doesn't give like dirt if a mistake is made

yotasavg

i've had that code. i went to the dealer, got overcharged for a TPS and as soon as i installed it my idle was tits.

jungle_runner

awesome! thanks for the info ... yep, the stealership ... they make most of their money on parts and service, not sales

i just pulled the tps and found that the rotating disc inside is not closing all the way, the spring seems to be worn ... after pressing it closed all the way i'm getting a reading of 70 ohms at closed position ... it should be 200-800 ohms

i called auto zone and they have them for $74.99, plus with my rewards discount i get $20.00 off ... i will buy the new one and save messing around with this one anymore ... i would like to service this one though if it's possible so that i can have a discount

thanks

abecedarian

you might be able to clean it up with electrical contact cleaner. But I don't think it's worth it. If it's damaged... who knows what mechanical issues it may have?

yotasavg

that's a real good deal jungle runner. i got mine for like $110... i would jump on that, and as you know at this point it's only a plug and two little screws (iirc) to replace it. i'm willing to bet that a new tps will solve your problem.

after i replaced mine i just reset the comp. and checked for that code 51 again..... gone with the old sensor.

jungle_runner

tested the new TPS and the ohm meter is behaving similarly ... discovered that having the setting on 200 is too little if i'm looking for a reading of 700 ... flashes and then jumps to infinite (1) because the reading is out of range ... so, retesting the old TPS gives me good readings across all tests, it's just malfunctioning mechanically ... to be continued ...

abecedarian

I hate suspense.

jungle_runner

removed the throttle body from the intake manifold and gave everything a vigorous cleaning with intake / carb cleaner ... sprayed the TPS with electrical contact cleaner upside down so that the crud would drip out ... it twisted and sprang all the way back nicely after that ... ran all the ohm tests and set the tolerances with the throttle body out ... reassembled everything and she's out there purring right now

will take the new TPS back and pocket my $74.99

thanks all for your help, for reading, and i hope someone else learns from this saga as well

aviator

Good to hear you got her fixed J R...
watch those drop offs...

just out of curiosity why were you taking a short cut over the grass anyway?

jungle_runner

i do it every now and then to avoid having to drive all the way around dividers/curbs and other annoying urban obstructions ...

i'm actually really glad that this happen now, at my parents house in the city rather up in the mountains where it would be much more difficult to get parts ... if i had to do it all over ... i would not take it to a mechanic and loose all the learning and bonding i had with my truck ... plus all these things really needed to get done but i kept putting them off because the truck kept on running

jungle_runner

well, after the engine cooled, the exhaust leak came back ... i've been reading some threads about getting that stripped stud out of the head ... i should just be able to use vice-grips to turn the old stud out, right? and then get a 60mm M10 x 1.25 and thread it in?

here's a good thread, but i don't completely understand, i haven't had to do anything like this before: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ld-bolt-83428/

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

On the 200 setting, you meter can only measure up to 200 (or 199.9) ohms and anything higher is displayed as an open circuit. You want to use a range that is higher than the expected resistance you are measuring:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...oUseAnOhmMeter

Since you are looking for a resistance in the range of 200-800 ohms, that is likely more than 200 ohms, so use the next higher scale.

jungle_runner

hey roger, great to hear from you

yeah, i finally figured that out, but it's nice to hear the corroboration from you, now i'm completely sure, thanks!

abecedarian

I'd jump in and offer my advice but my DVM auto-selecting (VDC/VAC/AMP/OHMs) and auto-ranging, so I'm worthless here.

jungle_runner

helicoiled the stripped stud, all went well with that, all exhaust manifold bolts are torqued to spec, but i am still getting a very loud knocking noise! grrrr

it's been 3 weeks without my truck!

anyhow, i can feel knocking coming from the back of valve cover near cylinder four, i am suspecting that it is something in the rocker assembly now, here is the video again, any suggestions would be much appreciated, thank you

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eaf_siHHrD4[/YOUTUBE]