mt_goat

Oh no, Mama If it weren't for bad luck you'd have no luck at all. Maybe he's wrong. Did you have a warranty with it?

Yeah that plate should pop right out of there. Maybe a screwdriver can persuade it to move. I'm wondering if there isn't some broken parts jaming it up or something.

Toyo-Mama

The engine is from Orient, and the post a warranty... I was diligent about my fluids and such, so lets pray they do the right thing.... I re-fi'd my house to pay the first lawyer, can't do that again... but I've got a Toyo Certified guy that comes highly recommended... my last guy moved away... talked to him for a while on the phone but he had his hands full the first time around.
What makes a rod come loose from the crank? I know I'm kind of all over the place with my diagnostics here, but I'm a PARAmedic not a TOYOmedic... *oh boy.....

mt_goat

Well I'm no expert but I'd guess something has to break, the rod itself or the wrist pin something like that. I haven't heard of too many 3.0 breaking rods, they don't really have enough power to stress the lower end too much unless you drive it into a lake or something and hydrolock it. I've heard of a few of the supercharged or turbocharged 5VZFEs blowing rods though the block but they have about twice the HP with basicly the same lower end. I'd be suspect of the quality of rebuilt motors myself, they never seem to be as good as the factory builds unless its someone building it for themself. Good luck Mama.

91toybeater

Sounds like a busted flexplate. They can knock alot and may sound like rod knock. However, if you lost drive then you can bet it's not a rod knock. That wouldn't cause your lack of forward motion. It would tick loudly but still go. If it's not going then you have a dis-connect between the engine and the ground. Having just had the motor installed, I'd bet on loose torque converter bolts that eventually broke or flex plate itself broke. You'll have to remove the bell housing bolts, install a couple of slightly longer ones and remove the driveshafts and shifters, slide the trans backward and pear up into the hole. If you can't remove the inspection cover, this is the only way to get into it without removing the engine. If it is indeed cracked or broken flexplate, you will need to remove the trans/transfer case and install a new flexplate.
Good luck.
Wolverines forever!

Toyo-Mama

the noise is way beyond a ticking noise, but I have made arrangements for a toyo certified mechanic to come ave a listen. The engine is under warranty... now that I think about it, the wrecker needed to keys to put it into neutral to pull it onto the flatbed.... would the rod coming loose cause it to lose that torque resulting in disengaging the tranny? I couldn't see past that shim plate last night, and now that I'm leaning towards a rod I think I will rest my brain a couple of days... givin me fits, I tell ya!

Toyo-Mama

Ok, so I'm not getting very far with Orient Engine responding to my warranty inquiries. What type of testing an documentation might I expect they will require? I'm sure that will cost me up front, so I am just curious... likely a compression test, eh? What else, do you think? I need to find someone who is willing to pursue this with me, and it may be a long haul... I haven't quite yet decided on who to do the work or consequently where to tow it...