CV shaft Retainer Clip and Washer
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
CV shaft Retainer Clip and Washer
I'm having trouble getting the splined retaining washer and clip to go back on to the CV the driver side went on fine, but there is not enough room between the brass end of the spindle and the groove on the CV shaft for the washer to fit and the clip to go on top of it. Could I grind down on the brass spindle end?
These are the pieces I'm talking about
These are the pieces I'm talking about
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thats what I thought, I suppose I'll pull the hub off and re check the wheel bearings and axle length. Although I don't thing the wheel bearings would have anything to do with it. That would be the spindle bearings, which I didn't touch.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Yeah, don't grind anything...First of all, did you make sure not to pack too much grease inside the spindle (or on the CV axle when you installed it)? If not, go back and do that first.
If so, then take the retaining bolt and screw it partway into the end of the axle shaft. Grab the bolt head with a pair of vicegrips, and pull outwards on the vicegrips... it should give you enough clearance to install the washer and clip.
If so, then take the retaining bolt and screw it partway into the end of the axle shaft. Grab the bolt head with a pair of vicegrips, and pull outwards on the vicegrips... it should give you enough clearance to install the washer and clip.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 12-18-2008 at 08:55 AM.
#7
Registered User
Am I missing something or does spindle=wheel bearings?
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
I thought there were spindle bearings (brass color) inside the steering knuckle and the wheel bearings were in the hub. Dunno - its been a long week trying to figure everything out. I'm going to pull the hub and knuckle back off and check to make sure there is nothing put together wrong. I might have gotten a bad cv axle
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I thought there were spindle bearings (brass color) inside the steering knuckle and the wheel bearings were in the hub. Dunno - its been a long week trying to figure everything out. I'm going to pull the hub and knuckle back off and check to make sure there is nothing put together wrong. I might have gotten a bad cv axle
And don't take anything apart before trying what I suggested before. This is a common occurance, and the trick in my quote below works for most (as long as the axle is the correct one, of course)
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 12-18-2008 at 09:08 AM.
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: north ridgeville ohio
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
when you put the "big nut" on the spindle did you tighten it down until the wheel wouldnt turn and then loosen it up? you may not have the whole unit seated properly.
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
That's called seating and pre-loading the bearings, and it is a bit more involved than you describe, but it is an important step. It would, however, not prevent the axle shaft from properly seating in the spindle, which is the problem the original poster is having.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I set the preload to FSM specs. The problem I am having is after I put that washer and clip back on and put the ADD hub cover on(with those pesky cone washers) the hub assembly is very stiff to rotate, even more than without the hub cover on. thats why I pinpointed the stiffness to the washer and c clip not fitting properly on the axle shaft. GSGALLANT - I will try your method and let you know what I get.
Ok, and those are bushings not bearings in the spindle, wrong terminology - my mistake
Ok, and those are bushings not bearings in the spindle, wrong terminology - my mistake
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: north ridgeville ohio
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
understand its a bit more advanced lol i was just making sure that process happened. sometimes its the little things that get overlooked. so thats covered. hmm id have to go with the aftermarket shaft isnt right.
im sure youll get it !
im sure youll get it !
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I set the preload to FSM specs. The problem I am having is after I put that washer and clip back on and put the ADD hub cover on(with those pesky cone washers) the hub assembly is very stiff to rotate, even more than without the hub cover on. thats why I pinpointed the stiffness to the washer and c clip not fitting properly on the axle shaft. GSGALLANT - I will try your method and let you know what I get.
Ok, and those are bushings not bearings in the spindle, wrong terminology - my mistake
Ok, and those are bushings not bearings in the spindle, wrong terminology - my mistake
When you say you set the preload to FSM spec, you mean you followed the procedure in the FSM to the letter (overtighten, rotate hub a few times both directions, back off nut, re-tighten, check preload with fishscale)? If you're preload is correct there, I wouldn't worry that the hub gets much harder to turn with the flange installed. That is normal... to a point. If the hub seems really hard to turn by hand at that point, temporarily install the wheel on the hub and try spinning the wheel to see if it feels normal. It will be a lot easier to turn it with the wheel and tire installed.
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
I could get the washer on, but if I wanted to get the clip to sit all the way into the groove on the axleshaft, I'd have to take a flathead hammer and beat it in which caused the whole axleshaft and hub assembly to lock up once completely assembled when I went to rotate it with my hand. (these are new clips btw...) After measuring the axle shafts it turns off the aftermarket one from Autozone is 1.5mm shorter than OEM. So I'm going to return both of the CV's and get my $150 back. That will be the last time I buy a duralast brand part. I think I'll go with Cardone CV's. Hopefully I can have them ordered and delivered by Saturday
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll go as far as asking why you changed out your cv joints. Were they bad or were the boots torn? If there was nothing wrong with them I don't think any aftermarket part will measure up to the original, as you literally have seen here.
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
both sides had torn boots and the passenger side was starting to make noise when I turned, but hey I cant complain for 212+ thousand miles and only now having to replace them. I don't know if the previous owner replaced them at all. They had toyota part #'s stamped on them
#20
Contributing Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Los Osos, CA (we can't agree on crap!)
Posts: 2,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had something similar happen with my last aftermarket cv I got. I ended up removing just a little material off the splined washer. This was after doing everything else and narrowing it down to the axle. I couldn't take it back because I got their last one and I needed to get it on the road. I took my time and took off just enough to get the clip in.