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Crank Bolt won't budge

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Old 12-25-2009, 08:40 AM
  #21  
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Use an impact wrench. Remove the radiator if required for access.

We use a 3/4" drive impact wrench on the really stubborn ones. 1200 ft.lbs. of torque from an Ingersoll-Rand gun will take anything off.

If you've got it in the stand and you absolutely cannot budge it even with HEAT, you can DRILL the center out of it to relieve some tension on the bolt. 5/16 drill bit should do it, just thin the walls on the bolt and it will come out. Replace the bolt afterwards.
Old 12-25-2009, 08:57 AM
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I wish I had access to air tools...

I was just outside messing with it again and it is very frustrating that one bolt is keeping me from moving forward.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:09 AM
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here is a tip

get a second job delivering pizza's on the weekdend buy a good air compressor. along with a good assortment of air tools..

dont wast your money on all those high dollar air tools.. i have never been let down with any of my harbor frieght air tools, i had them for many years.. they been through consant abuse the two times i was deployed over sea's s

never had a problem with them yet..

get a hand torch down from the hardware store and heat the crank bolt up cherry red.. get the yellow bottle of that propane mix stuf cuz it gets hotter..

once it red hot spray if down with some pb blaster or wd40 or luqidwrench..

standby for some white smoke or even a small fire..

dont spary on open flame..

repeat process about 3 times every time after heating and spraying. throw on the impact and make sure its in reverse and whale away..

keep a garden hose handy or fire ex.

dont want to catch ur rig on fire or your garage..

after this treatment i have no doubt that it wont come off..

it you still cant get it off just take the whole thing to the machince shop.. let them screw with it..
Old 12-25-2009, 10:11 AM
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looks like it has to be a somewhat compact impact wrench that will fit in there.. I'm thinking it looks to be about 6 3/4" worth of room... all of the decent looking (powerful) impact wrenches are much larger..
Old 12-25-2009, 10:23 AM
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step it up to a 1 inch breaker bar and a cheaterpipe over that.. breaker bar..

i have no doubt in my mind that will not come off after that..

Last edited by 1990yota-pickup; 12-25-2009 at 10:25 AM.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:28 AM
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If you trash that harmonic balancer your looking around $108.99 from autozone...

maybe u have a extra lying around.
Old 12-25-2009, 09:37 PM
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OK, so a little update...

Air Impact was defeated today, ran it at about 150psi.

Hit it with an air hammer, just to see if I could knock it a bit; didn't seem to do anything but mark the bolt.

I hooked the cherry picker back up so I could hit it with my breaker bar again w/o rolling the engine stand over. 1/2" breaker bar (18") + 19mm 6pt impact socket + 4' of pipe =
rounded edges on the crank bolt.

I still haven't found the torch. I might see if Home Depot rents any heavier impacts than what I've been using, that or I'll try drilling down the middle to relieve pressure like 86tuning said, anything else I need to know when doing that (it seems straight forward, but still...)
Anyone have a crank bolt they want to sell me?
Old 12-25-2009, 10:02 PM
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I would think that if you drill out the middle of the bolt your gonna be risking snapping off the head of the bolt.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:06 PM
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My other thought was to start welding... but then i realized that if that doesn't work I really am screwed

(Like weld a socket to the bolt and weld the socket to a big pipe)
Old 12-25-2009, 10:12 PM
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If you can figure a way to stabilize the engine on that stand, you should try hooking your winch to the breaker bar and givin it a good tug.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:13 PM
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strip everything down around the crank pulley, and take it to the machine shop. they can get it out, and if they have to burn it out or drill it out, they can chase the threads or repair the threads.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:18 PM
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my advice, bigger cheater pipe. i had about a 6 or 8 foot pipe on my cheater bar. not a fun bolt to get out
Old 12-25-2009, 10:23 PM
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Ok... so options include:
Bigger cheater bar (except I already slipped on the bolt with the 4')
Use my winch (except I don't really feel like installing concrete anchors in the floor of my garage just to stabilize the engine; though i like the idea)
Let the machine shop deal with it.
Use heat (which I still haven't done)

I've got a friend coming by tomorrow to give me hand, if we can't get it after a bit of work (and hopefully I can find that torch) i'll just start stripping down the engine.
and let the machine shop deal with it
Old 12-25-2009, 10:30 PM
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Im thinkin attach a chain or come along or whatever to the opposite side of the engine stand so you don't pull the whole thing over. Then hook onto that breaker bar and see what happens. If it works then im a genius, if it doesn't, you'll probably end up with a pretty good story haha.

I know its redneck, but come on...what could possibly go wrong??
Old 12-25-2009, 10:42 PM
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I need to keep the whole engine stand from moving under the force of an 8000lbs winch, that's a lot of power. There's no really way to do that w/o another truck or cement anchors. There's nothing in the garage I would trust anchoring it to...
Unless I put something between the engine and the front of my truck. <BR>
The darker grey lines are pipes or wood or w/e holding the engine from the front of the truck

Last edited by forwardtocharis; 12-25-2009 at 10:44 PM.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:49 PM
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I like the way your thinkin! You could also chain the engine/stand to another truck on the other side...

You can move the whole thing outside can't you?
Old 12-25-2009, 10:51 PM
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I can move it outside. I don't have another truck. My family has all these wimpy little plastic cars.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:54 PM
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Your friend have a truck you could chain it too? I wish i was down in your area, i'd totally like to see you actually try this haha.
Old 12-25-2009, 10:56 PM
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my friend also drives a plastic car
Old 12-25-2009, 11:04 PM
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NEW CRANK Japanengines.com $110.00 I had a hellava time with mine and the damned crank wasn


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