Teto86

Hey everyone, I am having some issues with my 22re that I could really use some help with. I was driving one day when my car kept overheating until I thought it had blown a head gasket or cracked the head because of the ridiculous amount of water in oil and vice versa. It turned out to be a timing chain guide and cover issue that I'm sure many of you have heard of or come across. Anyway I bought a used block (because my block had a lot of miles anyway), replaced the timing guides and cover, and got my head resurfaced along with a valve job and after putting it all together I can only get it to start with starting fluid for a few seconds before it dies out. For those few seconds it runs rough and after testing the compression I got the following numbers in order from cylinder 1 to 4... 150 psi, 130, 70, 45. The numbers didnt vary more than 5 psi from the wet and dry tests, and the cylinder leak down test shows an increase in leakdown the further back the cylinder. After pressurizing each cylinder at tdc with 100 psi from the compressor, i get air coming fron the top of the valve cover and the dipstick tube. One thing I should have done that I did not do was check the block for warpage, but is that the only thing it could be? How bad is too bad? Is there something else I should be looking for?

darkmourning

if youre getting air through your dip stick and the valve cover it sounds like rings or a cracked piston, but if it were rings then your compression should go up when you wet test unless they are just compleatly fried out. and to have such a drastic drop in compressions along the line is very strange and could be a sign of block warpage. but a 22r is an iron block which is hard to warp, not compleatley impossible, just not likely. are you gettin air through the intake or exhaust at all when you pressurize the cylinders?

fierohink

With only ether making it run, I'm leaning towards being off a tooth or 180* on the disty or even on the timing chain, that would explain not building any compression if the cam is out of phase.

Take the valve cover off, set the crank to TDC on #1 and see if the mark on the cam/chain is at 12 oclock.

When the head was off the "new" block did the jugs look trashed? was there any signs of scouring? or any indicator that the rings/pistons could be trash?

Teto86

I don't have any leakage through the intake or the exhaust and the cam appears slightly to the left when the crank is at tdc but goes the same amount to the right when I move it over a tooth. I took the head off and checked for block warpage. I know the max warpage should be .002" and when I checked the drivers side of the block front to back I had 2 low spots at .005" which were located near cylinders 1 and 2. Now when I checked the passenger side of the block front to back it started at .002", then went down for the majority of the length to .004", then came back up to .002" at the end. Going down the center of the block it remained constant at .002" between cylinders. Now I'm not sure if this is relevant or not but when I was originally putting it all together I had the block, followed by sealant, followed by a block shim/spacer (since it was the 2nd time the head had been resurfaced in it's known life), followed by the head gasket and then the head. So far the best response I think may be the right one is that the mechanical timing might be off. I'll play with it a little bit this coming weekend and see what results I can get. Again I appreciate all the input I've received! It's like being given a flashlight after wandering around in the dark for so long!

darkmourning

might be the degreeing of the cam. LC makes a kit that helps you degree a cam with a decked head