jlanham

Hey my truck will not go into 1st gear without horsing it in, or reverse. The shop bled the fluid and replaced the fluid but still not working. They say I need a new clutch but it is not slipping at all when in gear. I think it maybe the Slave cylinder. The freeplay was also adjusted in the clutch. Getting progesively worse to go from 2nd to 3rd to 4th. No squeling just grinding when I force it into gear.

1991 6 cylinder toyota pickup. 4x4 extended cab

StretchASU

I recently went through this with my trail rig. I replaced the slave cylinder when it broke and it wouldnt bleed properly or go into gear. The clutch was in perfect condition. My bet in your case is going to be the same as mine. MASTER Cylinder needs to be replaced. Check for fluid on the inside of the firewall under the dash after pumping the clutch a few times. Even if you cant see or feel the fluid the seals inside may not be in good condition and are allowing little bits of air though, not allowing the clutch to engage and disengage.

Targetnut

when the slave cylinder goes bad it leaks,

the master cylinder can bypass internally.

High Water Drifter

here is another possibility: broken/cracked clutch pedal mount. very common problem with 2nd generation toyotas with manual transmission. when this happens truck won't go into gear and makes you think it's a slave problem. your local clutch repair shop can get the part and there is a mod available to strengthen it. hope this helps

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Yep, could be your mount.

Generally you replace the master and the slave together. Not but about $90 for both.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

I just changed both my master and slave due to the master leaking internally and causing the opposite of your problem, the clutch would not fully engage. However, I had originally bought a master cylinder from Advance and it went bad in 6 months. BUY FACTORY ORIGINALS made by Aisin. I know Marlin sells them on his site, I picked up the pair shipped for about $100.

jlanham

Awesome info! The clutch pedal is good so it is the slave or the master. I will replace the slave since I already bought it and then if it does not fix it go for the master! Thanks again!

kylextrisler

i posted this in a new thread but deleted it cuz i saw this was going, so im gonna highjack this a little heres my issue that i posted:


i start my truck, and it starts cold, takes forever for it to turn over right, its the first time it has ever started like this
i had it left in first gear when i try to pull it out of first gear it wont (cant change gears when the truck is started at all, from any of them) i turn off the truck, put it in neutral and start it, i cant put it into any gears, i stop the truck, put it in reverse, start it cant shift out, but when i release the break it pulls and the truck backs up with the clutch all the way in, but i cant shift out of reverse, i have to turn it off, put it back into first, start it, get off the brake and let it jump forward (its not creeping either, its like its going at a high throttle but the engine doesnt rev different)
is this a clutch? or one of the cylinders?
the clutch has been replaced, but idk how recently, i know within 6 years.

stormin94

Well, for the original topic, try putting it in 2nd before you put it in 1st, or reverse. Maybe let the clutch out a little pit in 2nd. Play with that idea a little.

carljwnc

Any more info/pics on this issue??? I know where to look, but where does the cracking occur??? I know that I need a new clutch, and I have a Marlin Crawler sitting in a box awaiting install , But if this is a problem too I want to make sure that I address it as well.

High Water Drifter

I used to own a 1990 4runner(it's been a long time)but, the mount where the clutch pedal mounts to cracks and causes shifting problems(mostly difficult to get it in gear). I was stumped initially, so i took it to clutchmart here in sacramento ca. this guy russel pointed his flashlight at the mount sure enough it was cracked. he stated this is very common on 89-95 toyotas with manual tranny. ordered new mount and these guys welded on a modification to strengthen it so it won't ever break again. if u need more info call cluthmart 916-339-9800

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

i with the Wabbit on this one.

surf4runner

X2

sometimes people like to do things twice

jlanham

hey guys did the slave cylinder got the brake fluid down to the bleeder valve pumped it a few more times to be safe closed the valve topped it off and can not get it in any gear now unless I turn the vehicle off.

The master is not leaking anywhere that I can see. Is it the problem? How did it get worse? Should I go replace the master cylinder or is it the clutch?

jason191918

Try pumping the pedal. If this fixes the problem, the problem is hydraulics.

StretchASU

Kinda like paddling upstream if you have a Master Cyl that is bypassing internally.

jason191918

This worked for my slave too.

jlanham

well the slave cylinder is pushing out. IF the master is bypassing internally would the slave cylinder slowly retract because of the leak of lack of pressure when the clutch is held down? Just thinking I could get some one to keep the clutch on the floor while I checked that out.

When you say pump the cluth do you mean when trying to get it into gear or to bleed the system or what?

Could the Master be bypassing internally just enough where the slave puses but just not quite enough?

Is there still the possibility that it is the clutch?

jason191918

Pump the clutch when shifting like you would a brake pedal. Yes the master could be slipping just enough to not allow the clutch to disengage. But so could the slave. By pumping the clutch, it builds up pressure so if it is just slipping a little bit, it can be overcome by pumping it. I would doubt the problem is the clutch if it does not slip when engage.

jlanham

ok will give it a shot and let you know tonight