SR5

first. i know taking the front sway bar will give me better flex, but why would taking the rear, not give me better flex and make it worse,
ive read on here several articles how taking the rear sway bar hinders the front ifs flex.

so if this is true, when i get a lift int the rear i will need the rear part to be longer, were would i get something like this

Trustyrusty

That rear sway bar is gay, take it off, also the front one really doesn't do jack on my truck, but you have a 4runner so it might be heavier.. Might make a difference I dunno really, I removed my front one and couldn't tell anything but I have better flex, rear sway bars do NOTHING. Trust me.

SR5

our 4runners are very top heavy in the rear, and the sway bar makes a big difference, at least on the rear

abecedarian

I think one of the biggest problems with these bars is the fact that people call them 'anti-sway' bars, and not 'anti-roll' bars, which is technically what they are. They keep the chassis from 'rolling' to the side too far when lateral acceleration levels exceed nominal levels, and let the suspension do what it's supposed to do, which is keep the vehicle under control, giving way to understeer under higher speed situations, not oversteer which will without a doubt lead to a high center-of-gravity vehicle entering a roll-over condition.

Matt16

COMPLETELY different kettle of fish- you have a truck, he has a 4Runner. Your truck has leave springs and a low COG, his has coils and an extra 500lbs (?) sitting above the COG. You might as well just be talking about your VW Beetle.

I had my rear SB off for a while, and I have front disconnects. The front swaybar makes less difference than the rear. The rear SB on a 4Runner is crucial to keeping the shiny side up. There is no advantage I can imagine of to taking the rear off. The coil sprung rear is already are super flexy. You want the front and rear axles to be flexing together, not JUST the rear flexing and the front not at all.

Removing the rear SB induces oversteer and significant body roll. The combination of the two puts you in a situation that WILL leave you prone to roll over, or at least tip.

The rear of my 4Runner is lifted about 2" above factory (4" above sagged height), and I didn't need to do anything with the SB.

toyNG

so is the oversteer and body roll not really an issue with the pickups?

Another question, I've heard others say that there is not really a point in taking the rear SB off, the rationale being that it is not really that advantageous having the rear flexing so much while the IFS is barely flexing at all. Is this true?

Trustyrusty

The front sway bar does nothing. Unless someone can show me a testimony or proof, It is worthless.

abecedarian

the front sway bar (anti-roll bar, technically) helps keep the front suspension limited in travel in such a way that should the vehicle start to lean too far to the side, the front wheels will break traction before the rear wheels do and begin to slide, thus limiting the tendency for the vehicle to roll over.

Matt16

Body roll is not an issue with stock pickup because the centre of gravity is low as stated above. Even a fiberglass canopy is much lighter than the steel "canopy" over the back of the 4Runner. As passengers are carried back there, there has to be some steel reinforcement of the canopy to act as a integrated roll bar. Add in the weight of the windows (glass is heavy) and doors, and you have a large mass riding above the COG. This is why 4Runners have more body roll.

SR5

no one has answered my questions
1. why would taking rear not improve the flex, and worsen the front ability to flex
(im keeping it on, just curious)
2. with a 2" lift ill need to extend my sway bar because it will limit my drop, so were can i get that long bot that attaches to the frame and the sway bar

Matt16

double post

Matt16

Can you clarify which swaybar you're talking about. One minute you're telling him to take of the rear SB, then the front. This is a safety related issue and you telling people to take their swaybars off when you drive a vehicle with a totally different rear suspension and different characteristics is totally irresponsible if you ask me.

Furthermore, while the front suspension is the same, he's still got a vehicle with a higher COG than yours as stated above. I have run with the front disconnected and there is noticeably more body-roll than when the rear was removed, but it wasn't as bad. It still is noticeable and may make the difference between rolling and staying upright in an emergency situation.

Removing front and rear, then driving on a public road would be a danger to yourself and other drivers. Do not do that.

**************************************
I thought you understood 1. already. The rear flexes fully regardless of the SB. The shocks are what is limiting your downtravel, and the springs/ bumpstops are what is limiting your compression. The rear swaybar reduces the tendency for the rear to do all the flexing. If the rear just flexes and the front does not, then your truck's suspension doesn't adapt to the terrain and just moves according to the position of the front tires. Its no more complicated than that.

I already answered #2 farther up.

--->the shocks will limit your droop far before the swaybar does. The longest shock you can use before its compressed length is too long (and you ruin your shock because you bottomed it out) is 25.5" (I think- search, I measured once). With that length, your SB is in no way limiting droop.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I'm sorry Trustyrusty, but that statement is irresponsible. A quick check of your profile indicates that you are 17 years old, and I submit you don't have enough experience of any kind to make that statement. You are certainly entitled to your opinion, but do you really think Toyota would have engineered the bar into the vehicle design if it did nothing? I had to make a "real" emergency maneuver many years back on a freeway and I really thought we going over. I don't know if having the swaybar on made the difference but I am glad I didn't have to find out. Additionally I had 3 other lives at stake in my runner and I am glad I didn't have to explain myself to a grieving family member. You may have driving experience beyond your years, I don't know, but I'm pretty confident you don't have an engineering degree. Please when you make comments like that, preface them with the understanding that it is only your opinion.

abecedarian

without the ability to actually skid pad test the trucks, I wouldn't give anyone any sort of advice about which bar they could or couldn't remove.
we are talking about a device that was originally used to allow 'cars' to corner better but was found to increase the safety of trucks and suv's when installed and utilized properly.

So, if the truck handles better off-road without the bar, by all means, disconnect it, but re-connect it when you get back on road. It's not just your safety you're dealing with when you're driving on the highway or common road... but possibly the safety of the people in the car behind or on the side of you.
By all means, you are entitled to be stupid with your own life, but you're not entitled to be careless with other peoples' lives.

SR5

x2 ive head a similar experience on the freeway not long ago, in addition ive tested my trucks "roll over ability" at a "closed" locations i did sharp turns doing 30mph and all it did was drift,with some crazy under steer, but i like to test the limits of my vehicles so i know how it will react and adjust according in a emergency situation

Matt16

Pretty much the same situation with me, but my swaybar had broken off the rear axle. I wanted to see if it was safe. It wasn't, I tipped. I wasn't going 30 mph, I was doing about 15mph. It skidded sideway, then as it slowed and gained traction, it just leaned until it tipped.

abecedarian

that's why they're called 'anti-roll' bars... technically speaking

Alex 400

SR5, remember when i flexed my truck on that rock up at reiter? I had the front end completely twisted to the bump-stops in the front. The back end was completely drooped and compressed. it was barely sitting there. I have both sway bars on the truck. I drove around without the front on and if you are doing much highway driving i would recommend it, but other than that, it wasn't bad.

SR5

hey Alex, ya i remember that, but think about with an extra two inch lift, how much more is that sway bar going to flex
well according to to Matt it will do just fine, so ill find when i get the lift(already got half of the stuff)
oh and for skid plate im getting one from downey, the prerunner ones, they are tank steel quality, i think that should hold up just fine

oh i lost your number when i broke my phone, so ill pm if i go up at any point

Trustyrusty

Im sure that if I were to make a quick swerve at freeway speeds that sway bar could help, but I rarely ever drive over 55 in that thing, nor take it on the freeway, I expect people to realize thats my opinion, but that swap bar never did anything for me anyways cause mine was bent and the bushings were shot. Its all good man. I may be 17 but that don't mean Im stupid.