Can I recharge my original AC myself
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Can I recharge my original AC myself
Or should I leave that to the pros? How much does it typically cost to have it recharged by a shop/the dealer?
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depends - if you have r-12 or r-134a. if you have a '94 it could be either. without a license you cant touch r-12. if you have r-134a you can recharge it yourself...its kind of a "shadetree" method, but you can do it with a kit from wall mart, provided your system is not completly empty.
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depends - if you have r-12 or r-134a. if you have a '94 it could be either. without a license you cant touch r-12. if you have r-134a you can recharge it yourself...its kind of a "shadetree" method, but you can do it with a kit from wall mart, provided your system is not completly empty.
#5
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you can touch r-12, but you wont be able to find any. if you're converting it you generally replace the compressor because r-12 and r-134a use different lubricants (water vs. mineral oil i think?) either way it'll be around $350-400 most likely, but you're better off going the r-134a route because if it needs to be recharged a few years down the road it will be under $100 for just the 134a recharge.
Call a shop to get a better estimate. oh, and dont use the "recharge kits" many of them use propane or butane, which isnt something that you should be using as a refridgerant, and has caused a number of engine fires.
Call a shop to get a better estimate. oh, and dont use the "recharge kits" many of them use propane or butane, which isnt something that you should be using as a refridgerant, and has caused a number of engine fires.
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On that note I have an r-134a A/C compressor in good working order for sale.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f107...ressor-121332/
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If your system is low you have a leak and should have it addressed.
You can dump some refrigerant in to the low side of the AC system and it will help some.
(skeptical) I tried one of those Artic Freeze (fix in a bottle) cans on my 91 Toyota Tercel that the AC has been inop/empty for 4 years. It clamed to have a drying agent in it developed by NASA & a leak stopper. It put enough coolent in the system to bring it up to pressure and operate. It did work some what. It made the vents blow cooler air, but only slightly cooler air. I would guess about 10 degrees cooler than ambiant. The reciever dryer was too saturated with moisture to really let the system work to properly. I all leaked out in a month.
If yore system has been empty for a while you will have moisture in the lines and the reciever dryer will be useless. It will most likely have to be replaced along with the expansion valve.
To get the most out of a system you should evacuate the system of the refrigerant and put it on a vaccume to remove the moisture. After that you service it to the correct pressure.
In short if it just quit or a is little low go with the can fix. If its broke hard.. call a qulified tech. Good luck!
You can dump some refrigerant in to the low side of the AC system and it will help some.
(skeptical) I tried one of those Artic Freeze (fix in a bottle) cans on my 91 Toyota Tercel that the AC has been inop/empty for 4 years. It clamed to have a drying agent in it developed by NASA & a leak stopper. It put enough coolent in the system to bring it up to pressure and operate. It did work some what. It made the vents blow cooler air, but only slightly cooler air. I would guess about 10 degrees cooler than ambiant. The reciever dryer was too saturated with moisture to really let the system work to properly. I all leaked out in a month.
If yore system has been empty for a while you will have moisture in the lines and the reciever dryer will be useless. It will most likely have to be replaced along with the expansion valve.
To get the most out of a system you should evacuate the system of the refrigerant and put it on a vaccume to remove the moisture. After that you service it to the correct pressure.
In short if it just quit or a is little low go with the can fix. If its broke hard.. call a qulified tech. Good luck!
Last edited by Embfixer; 08-03-2007 at 12:11 PM.
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Thanks for all the info guys.
The system is empty, has been like that for a few weeks, and will stay that way for a while longer. I guess I need some pros to refill it then. I will take a look at the compressor this evening to see which one I have.
So, if I wanted to/need to switch systems, do I need to switch out the entire system since the pressure is higher for the r-134a, or is a compressor change all I need (in addition to the new drier I now see I need to get)?
The system is empty, has been like that for a few weeks, and will stay that way for a while longer. I guess I need some pros to refill it then. I will take a look at the compressor this evening to see which one I have.
So, if I wanted to/need to switch systems, do I need to switch out the entire system since the pressure is higher for the r-134a, or is a compressor change all I need (in addition to the new drier I now see I need to get)?
#10
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you can touch r-12, but you wont be able to find any. if you're converting it you generally replace the compressor because r-12 and r-134a use different lubricants (water vs. mineral oil i think?) either way it'll be around $350-400 most likely, but you're better off going the r-134a route because if it needs to be recharged a few years down the road it will be under $100 for just the 134a recharge.
Call a shop to get a better estimate. oh, and dont use the "recharge kits" many of them use propane or butane, which isnt something that you should be using as a refridgerant, and has caused a number of engine fires.
Call a shop to get a better estimate. oh, and dont use the "recharge kits" many of them use propane or butane, which isnt something that you should be using as a refridgerant, and has caused a number of engine fires.
#11
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Retro fitting a R12 systen is fairly easy. You can get by just purging the system of the R12, screwing on the new servicing ports on the high and low side lines, putting the system on a vacuum and then charging with 134A. The proper method involves replacing the systems orings. Do not forget to add new compressor oil at the time of the retro fit. Most auto parts stores have kits and you can rent the vacuum and manifolds at some places. Be mindful that you can damage the system or yourself when adding the reifigerant!
By the way R12 goes for $70-$90 per pound (figure 2 lbs) plus labor around here. It costs about as much as a pro converson. A home converson with everything costs under $50.
By the way R12 goes for $70-$90 per pound (figure 2 lbs) plus labor around here. It costs about as much as a pro converson. A home converson with everything costs under $50.
Last edited by Embfixer; 08-03-2007 at 12:45 PM.
#12
I used a maxi frige 12 or something like that kit I got off ebay on my 87 and I've had excellent results. Ice cold air for over a month now.
Supposedly compatible with r-12. I just converted the fitting on the compressor and added a coolant can and 3/4 can of lubricant.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R12-F...3852QQtcZphoto
Supposedly compatible with r-12. I just converted the fitting on the compressor and added a coolant can and 3/4 can of lubricant.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/R12-F...3852QQtcZphoto
Last edited by Compressed; 08-03-2007 at 01:11 PM.
#13
Power Toyota/Scion in Tempe, AZ, evacuated and recharged the r-12 AC on my '90 v6 truck just yesterday.
The cost was $149.95, including:
$9 for dye to detect future leaks
$49 for freon
$91.95 for 'CP' which I assume is code for labor.
A/C works great again. Hope it stays that way.
The cost was $149.95, including:
$9 for dye to detect future leaks
$49 for freon
$91.95 for 'CP' which I assume is code for labor.
A/C works great again. Hope it stays that way.
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Power Toyota/Scion in Tempe, AZ, evacuated and recharged the r-12 AC on my '90 v6 truck just yesterday.
The cost was $149.95, including:
$9 for dye to detect future leaks
$49 for freon
$91.95 for 'CP' which I assume is code for labor.
A/C works great again. Hope it stays that way.
The cost was $149.95, including:
$9 for dye to detect future leaks
$49 for freon
$91.95 for 'CP' which I assume is code for labor.
A/C works great again. Hope it stays that way.
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I might hit you up on that one once I get the 4runner rolling again.
Found out that the $368 was to empty out the system, change fittings to R134A, refill and leak test. Hm, need to think about this one.
Found out that the $368 was to empty out the system, change fittings to R134A, refill and leak test. Hm, need to think about this one.
#18
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The "safe" refrigerants used in autos are flammable as well (including the lubrication oil) given sufficient heat (perhaps a hot engine???), and the burning fumes are much more toxic (phosgene is sometimes mentioned!!!!). There are much greater fire risks under the hood than the refrigerant.
Last edited by riceburner; 08-03-2007 at 05:24 PM.
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I had mine converted about a year ago to R-134a for about $100. I bought a conversion kit for around $30 at Autozone and took it to my mechanic. Just make sure they dont try to rip you off. My A/C blew cold for about a week until it stopped. I didnt really have the money to get it checked so i waited until this summer. I took it back to the same guy and he was telling me it was the compressor. So he gave me some crazy figure like $150 JUST for labor plus $100 for the compressor. I decided to get a second opinion by a mechanic I personally knew and turned out it was just a loose valve.
#20
air con
Hi all,
Im from Australia and im gonna say something that most of you wont beleive, but anyway...
Fill it with LPG or you guys here call it Propane.
YES it works, Yes its free if you have the aircon regassing hoses to do it and a fitting to fit onto the propane bottle, and its legal in some states in Australia, but all the mechanics that have a licence hate it, cause they now dont need a fancy R-12 licence or whatever, as anyone can do it, as its not as dangerouus to the atmosphere when let out.
Run a vacume through the system, check for leaks etc.
put in the same amount of propane as you would aircon gas.
And if it leaks out, Your not out of pocket.
And it works on the old or new system.......and ive found it to be much colder.
Food for thought from an Australian mechanic.
Im from Australia and im gonna say something that most of you wont beleive, but anyway...
Fill it with LPG or you guys here call it Propane.
YES it works, Yes its free if you have the aircon regassing hoses to do it and a fitting to fit onto the propane bottle, and its legal in some states in Australia, but all the mechanics that have a licence hate it, cause they now dont need a fancy R-12 licence or whatever, as anyone can do it, as its not as dangerouus to the atmosphere when let out.
Run a vacume through the system, check for leaks etc.
put in the same amount of propane as you would aircon gas.
And if it leaks out, Your not out of pocket.
And it works on the old or new system.......and ive found it to be much colder.
Food for thought from an Australian mechanic.
Last edited by mqhoon; 08-03-2007 at 10:54 PM.