RSuper

The 3VZE has been running badly lately so I decided to start with the basics and change the fuel filter. I busted one end loose but in the process of getting the other I broke the fuel line. It's broke about 6" upriver of the filter.

So now that the deed is done, what are my options for fixing this? I've got the replacement OEM filter already so I would like to keep that in the mix, but I'm all ears to the most practical solution. I tried going the compression fitting and replacement line route from Oreilly's but I believe the sizing was american and not metric so it did not thread into the filter.

Any advice for getting this back together in the most practical many?

scope103

While bending steel fuel line is partly Art, it isn't really that hard and not very expensive. In the past I've picked up standard lengths of fuel line with the fittings already in place; short of that many auto parts houses (e.g., Autozone) will loan the double-flare fitting tool. I advise picking up a few extra feet of steel line (it's not expensive) to practice bending; it's not the bending you need to practice, but figuring out WHERE to bend it.

If you're thinking about some sort of "just-get-by" repair (like rubber hose), remember that the line is filled with gasoline. Not somewhere to make mistakes.

So I suggest just replacing the broken fuel line, and do it right. It won't take any more time (and probably less money) than trying to cobble something together with "repair" fittings.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The problem is coming up with the fittings to go into the fuel filter.

I had the same problem looked for about a week to find the fittings to thread into the filter.

On that one ended up installing a filter housing with replaceable elements.

You can buy a new line from your dealer but you can`t get just the fittings

were you able to get your fitting out once the line twisted off ??

If so a short piece of Fuel injection line and the proper clamps is a good fix.

I have been running one like that for years keeping a close eye on it when under the truck

RSuper

Precisely my problem. I want to do it right but I'm having trouble identifying what the proper connections and what fuel line to get. It doesnt help that I've never really worked in this area either.

So basically I would need to: Flare the existing fuel line end and add threaded connection, create new replacement piece with one end threading into the filter and the other onto the newly created connection on the existing fuel line.

Can anyone help identify what sizes and parts I would need?

scope103

The line is 8mm (5/16" = 7.9375mm, so I'm not sure there is actually any difference between 5/16" and 8mm) and the nut should be 14mm x 1.5. You can buy that repair kit http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0156/N1650.oap, but that uses a compression fitting (no flare) onto the remaining line. If it were me, I would replace as much of the line as I could so I wouldn't be putting a flare onto "old" steel line. (i.e, flare nut to flare nut).

There are different flaring tools depending on whether you're flaring for a metric or SAE fitting; Autozone claims to loan either one.

RSuper

Excellent, thanks for the information. I just ordered the kit from Amazon - Gotta love no tax and free 2 day shipping. This is exactly what I was looking for when I went into Oreilly's but the guy behind the counter swore he didn't have anything like that so I ended up with steel brake line with the wrong connection.



What's the trick to the compression fittings, if there is at all? I've never used one before and I don't want to assume that I know how based on their appearance looking simple.

Murcielago

Compression fittings have 3 parts -- the body, a small metal washer, and the threaded cap/nut. Basically to use the Dorman part mentioned by Scope 103, you'll need to bend the line correctly, and have it meet up with your old fuel line. The old (and new) fuel line needs to be straight for about 2" or so from the cut, with a clean, 90-degree cut across it. If the line is rusty, you want to sand it smooth. (outside) Be sure to keep the grit out of your fuel system.

The new line and the old line should just about meet up. You will then need to put the nut onto the line, then the little metal gasket/ring. Then poke the line into the compression fitting. You will then tighten down the nut FIRMLY (but don't overdo it), while holding the compression fitting still with another wrench. Once that's attached, do the same to the other side. Don't re-use compression fittings on the same spot on the line, and don't re-use the washer; get a new one.

What's happening inside the fitting is that the little metal washer/gasket is being compressed between the nut and the line, and this is what forms the seal. This is also why the line needs to be smooth. if your fuel line is rusty or deeply pitted, you might have leaks.

I recently replaced my fuel tank and created a new connection between the tank and the steel fuel line that runs the length of the body. Toyota originally put in a nylon line with flare fittings at both ends to connect the fuel tank to the steel line. For various reasons I wanted a different solution (which I'm planning to write up here some day). I ended up using hose and cutting my steel fuel line about 18" from the tank, and then sliding the hose over the steel line and double-clamping it. (By the way, everyone says to double-clamp, but I'm not convinced this is necessary, though I did it anyway.)

With regard to hose, for fuel injection you will need a hose that meets the SAE30R9 standard. DO NOT USE REGULAR LOW-PRESSURE HOSE. Fuel injection runs at between 40-60 PSI, low pressure fuel systems (like for carbureted cars) runs at less than 10 PSI. The SAE30R9 hose has a working pressure well above 100 PSI (for a margin of safety) and a burst pressure well above that.

For my own project, I used the NAPA Part # NBH H357, which is rated for fuel, working pressure 225 PSI, burst pressure of 900 PSI. When you get the hose, read the lettering on the side to MAKE SURE it says SAE30R9. The first time I went to NAPA, I asked for that specific part number, said the phrase "fuel injection" about a dozen times, and when I got home, realized they had given me the low-pressure hose, which LOOKS identical, but isn't.

Also be sure to get fuel injection hose clamps. These are smooth all the way around with flanges that hold a bolt for tightening. Typical hose clamps have all those little slots for the screw thread, and they can cut into the hose.

If the compression fitting gives you trouble, just get 3-4" of the fuel injection hose and some clamps and make the junction that way. That's not quite as durable a solution, but it'll work fine.