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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

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Old 03-04-2009, 08:00 PM   #1
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best way to rust proof your undercarriage

its getting a bit warmer these days and im thinking of spraying the whole undercarriage and protect it from rust. what do you guys recommend? i was thinking rubberized undercoating or rust paint.
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i took one breath in, all of a sudden it just flooded into my mouth and down my throat i didnt expect it to come that fast... then again the hose was only like 6 feet long
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In 5 days, God created the heavens and the earth. On the 6th day, God created the Toyota 4x4. On the 7th day, God rested.

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Old 03-04-2009, 08:09 PM   #2
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Rust paint is ok, but it does flake off/ chip etc. Rust bullet or POR15 is good, but its expensive. I think with rust paint, you'll want to touch up the chips every year or so, but other than that, its probably alright.

Cleaning the mud, dirt, salt off is a very good idea. Make sure the drain holes arn't plugged
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Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:23 PM   #3
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yeah, i got to clean up the whole truck. the undercarriage is coated with mud, the body is muddy. i used rubberized undercoating on my other truck to make it look good but now im worried about the rust eating through the frame and body.
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i took one breath in, all of a sudden it just flooded into my mouth and down my throat i didnt expect it to come that fast... then again the hose was only like 6 feet long
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In 5 days, God created the heavens and the earth. On the 6th day, God created the Toyota 4x4. On the 7th day, God rested.

1993 yota pickup. 3 slow, 4.56 gears 5 speed. plumbing isr. autopal h4 conversion, ebay hid's, 12 inch infinity sub. 3 inch body lift with 33" a/t with 15x10 eagle alloys
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:30 PM   #4
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i use one one 4runner durabak on the from and on my other 4runner i used por15 and they both are doing good
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Old 03-05-2009, 01:20 PM   #5
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Did I mention Rustoleum (primer and top coats) is cheap? I think it cost me maybe $75 to do the frame and i could paint another truck with the paint left over.
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Yeah, I do think it's sort of funny. Can't you see a roomful of Toyota engineers looking at a relay rod, scratching their heads and saying 'Hmmm, this part wore out after 200,000 miles and 16 years, this is just unacceptable.'
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:30 PM   #6
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Move out of Canada?? Haha, kidding.

Do you already have any rust starting to appear? I've heard many good things about POR15.
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Old 03-05-2009, 02:35 PM   #7
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has anyone ever rinolined the frame? or something similar that seems to me like the best most permanent nonworry fix
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:54 PM   #8
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has anyone ever rinolined the frame? or something similar that seems to me like the best most permanent nonworry fix
problem with that is once rust starts, covering it won't stop it.
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Old 03-05-2009, 03:58 PM   #9
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I live in the RUST BELT.. BEST way to spot rust dead is every spring just when it warms up wash all the salt off and then go get KROWN rust proofing done.. it displaces waters and is maintenance for your cars body.. seriously this WORKS 100 bucka a year. keep everything nice and lubed..o and wash your truck ever week in the winter.. get the salt off..
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Old 03-05-2009, 04:53 PM   #10
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problem with that is once rust starts, covering it won't stop it.
oh gotcha well nvm then
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Old 03-05-2009, 04:59 PM   #11
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KROWN WILL STOP IT!! it soaks in its made for the rust belt.
www.krown.ca
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Old 03-05-2009, 05:02 PM   #12
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KROWN WILL STOP IT!! it soaks in its made for the rust belt.
www.krown.ca
dang bigt, sell it!
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Old 03-05-2009, 05:12 PM   #13
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hahaha just am a huge dan since i have seen cars used it since new now 15 years and they LOOK MINT.. like no rust...
my jdm hilux has gotten it and still look as good as when it leaft the factory in 91....


only thing they give me is a calender and a phone call to remind me my yearly appt is due!
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Old 03-05-2009, 06:47 PM   #14
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I started this post...havn't updated it...i have a few more things i got done painting that i need to post some pics up of. Thread has some interesting info and suggestions though, you should read it...

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/started-u...25/index2.html
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:01 PM   #15
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The key to rust proofing is in the prepping of the metal. You need to sand down to bare metal and prime it with a good oil, xylene or epoxy base prime and paint. You could clean it up good and coat it with the rust converter as well but in the long run it will come back. Use a paint that has a gloss sheen to it. This will seal it good and not allow mud to adhere as much as flat finish paint. I use the Rustoleum Hammer finish Xylene based paint. The spray can is like 7 bux here in Hawaii and the quart can is a lot more (I forget the cost). They come in black but it looks more like a dark grey color so you might want to test an area first. Read the directions as well. I think it said to put a second coat within 4 hours of the 1st coat. Once you put a coat and let it dry you'll see why it protects the metal. The sun and salt air here in Hawaii tends to kill the gloss finish in two years so you may want to recoat those areas. Some one also told me that they coat their under carriage with WD40 so mud won't stick, but I personally havn't tried it.
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Old 03-27-2009, 09:14 PM   #16
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I usually fill the frame with cheap gear lube twice a year... of course placing an oil pan below the drain holes over night. After an extensive rinsing of the inside of the frame.

Last edited by lftd_86_yota; 03-27-2009 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:03 PM   #17
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Listen - I will make this EXTREMELY EASY for you and I will SAVE YOU MONEY AND TIME.

Instead of coating it, painting it, sanding it, etc, which is time consuming, messy, and costly with various rust paints, plus it's not guaranteed to last or work do this:


Go out and buy 6-8 Aerosol cans of (Eureka) Fluid Film. Most Auto parts places carry it. Their website is http://www.fluid-film.com

This stuff IS the real deal (and I do NOT make and $$$ for posting this nor do I own stocks on the company).

What you do is pressure wash your undercarriage, preferabily on a lift (or get someone to do it for you). Let it dry. Then coat the entire undercarriage with this stuff. The fluid film is essentially WD40 on steroids. It will work on any surface rust effectively removing it (it removes oxidation), as well as displacing water and protecting the frame, sheet metal, and any other metal parts you choose to spray.

Do this once a year and your frame will look like new. In fact, in rainy Vancouver BC where I live, I still see fluid film patches that are still slightly wet even after a year when I go and do it the next time.

I also recently just invested in a case of Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal protector which I will use the next time I do my annual treatment instead of the fluid film just becuase it's cheaper than the fluid film and I have a wholesale account with Amsoil. So far I've sprayed a few things with it and it beads water very well and lasts a long time so I think I'll see as good of results with the Amsoil stuff as the Fluid film.


Anyways - best of luck with whatever you go with but keep in mind I was in the same dilemna as you and I dreaded the idea of painting the undercarriage with anything mainly because of how messy it is, how much $$$ rust paints tend to cost, and the fact that if you paint over something, some of the rust paints may seal water in if they are not fully done properly which can further the rust/corrossion instead of prevent it.
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:43 PM   #18
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diesel fuel and oil mixture works well and running the vehicle down a dirt road helps make it stick to the under carriage
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:50 PM   #19
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Hey Scott, how much is that amsoil stuff? I really need to address the frame and drivetrain this summer. I need to paint the front end, front frame and the rear axle. Was going to do the whole thing..

I would like to try that stuff out once im done, added protection right...
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Did I mention Rustoleum (primer and top coats) is cheap? I think it cost me maybe $75 to do the frame and i could paint another truck with the paint left over.
Hey Matt, got any pictures of the finished product? Did you use brush on, or rattle cans?

School me please!
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Old 03-28-2009, 04:51 PM
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