Ball Joints
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ball Joints
Yesterday I started noticing that on left hand turns whenever I hit a bump a large knock would result. Today I pull the tire and took a peak. The upper ball joint had about 1/2 inch of play in it. I looked at the other side and found a little bit of play. Just what I need.
So what exactly does it take to do ball joints? Should I go ahead and do lowers right away? What's this I hear about some being held on by rivets?
Thanks ahead of time.
J
So what exactly does it take to do ball joints? Should I go ahead and do lowers right away? What's this I hear about some being held on by rivets?
Thanks ahead of time.
J
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
haha, yea i have that kind of time and budget. I am a junior at michigan tech (mechanical engineering) and i am going to be a dad in under 2 weeks.
#5
Registered User
first off, congrats!!
secondly, if its an upper ball joint, its not too bad of a process, look up instructions on how to install ball joint spacers (that should get you 90% of the way). If its the lower ball joint, taking it apart is easy (4 bolts) but getting everything to line up to put those 4 bolts back in is a major pain.
While you're working on it, remember that the torsion bar attaches to the UPPER control arm not the lower (like most IFS trucks/cars with torsion bars) which means you'll need to put a 2x4 between the bumpstop and upper control arm to give yourself some room, I would remove the upper bumpstop before wedging the 2x4 in.
I would really recommend having 2 jacks available one to support the lower control arm (assuming the truck's weight is sitting on jack stands) and one between the upper and lower control arm, until you can put the 2x4 in there.
I would assume that you get a fair amount of rust in Michigan, so the use of a pickle fork would definately be needed. Even out here in sunny California it took a few good whacks to break the balljoint loose from the control arms.
Good luck.
secondly, if its an upper ball joint, its not too bad of a process, look up instructions on how to install ball joint spacers (that should get you 90% of the way). If its the lower ball joint, taking it apart is easy (4 bolts) but getting everything to line up to put those 4 bolts back in is a major pain.
While you're working on it, remember that the torsion bar attaches to the UPPER control arm not the lower (like most IFS trucks/cars with torsion bars) which means you'll need to put a 2x4 between the bumpstop and upper control arm to give yourself some room, I would remove the upper bumpstop before wedging the 2x4 in.
I would really recommend having 2 jacks available one to support the lower control arm (assuming the truck's weight is sitting on jack stands) and one between the upper and lower control arm, until you can put the 2x4 in there.
I would assume that you get a fair amount of rust in Michigan, so the use of a pickle fork would definately be needed. Even out here in sunny California it took a few good whacks to break the balljoint loose from the control arms.
Good luck.
#6
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: shreveport, La
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you must be in the eight year program.
just kidding. it is a drag the first time. just be careful of all the energy stored up in the torsion bars while separating the upper and lower arms.
#7
Registered User
Uppers are cake. As mentioned try to jam a board in between the UCA and the bump stop so that when you unbolt the ball joint you can just lower the assembly away from the UCA and the ball joint will be right there. There's no rivets and no chiseling. You'll need a pickle fork or a ball joint puller (the correct one). I'd have both so you have options.
There's a guy on ebay that sells front end rebuild kit for our trucks that will give you all the ball joints, tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm for about $250. I used his kit and have been satisfied with the results. For a struggling college Dad to be, it's hard to beat the cost of the kit. If the uppers are worn out chances are good everything needs replacing and you can do it this way for the cost of 4 ball joints.
I'll dig you up a link.
There's a guy on ebay that sells front end rebuild kit for our trucks that will give you all the ball joints, tie rods, idler arm and pitman arm for about $250. I used his kit and have been satisfied with the results. For a struggling college Dad to be, it's hard to beat the cost of the kit. If the uppers are worn out chances are good everything needs replacing and you can do it this way for the cost of 4 ball joints.
I'll dig you up a link.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Here's the kit I bought:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...9087QQtcZphoto
Notice the guy has over 9000 feedbacks at 100% positive.
Just an idea...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...9087QQtcZphoto
Notice the guy has over 9000 feedbacks at 100% positive.
Just an idea...
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. Once I can get the parts (nothing is ever open around here) I will see what I can do. ovrrdrive-I think i will just stick with the ball joints. Little bit cheaper and also I need the truck on the road as soon as possible (gotta go home for deer hunting!)
J
J
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
I got the ball joints done, but my cv got separated inside the outer boot. Is it possible to get it to go back on? I put the splines together, but there is still about 4 inches of play because it is not locked on. What's the easiest way to do this? The other axle has about 1/4 inch of play because it is locked on.
J
J
#11
Registered User
The CV's can be put back together but usually you have to take all that stuff apart again to have enough play to get the joint back together.
You can replace the studs that attach the inner CV with regular hardware which comes entirely making it easier to swap CV shafts. There is a chance that if you knock out those studs, you can remove the shaft without disassembling your suspension.
If all of this suspension surgery is affecting your alignment I have instructions on our site you can follow to align the truck yourself. www.sdori.com
Frank
You can replace the studs that attach the inner CV with regular hardware which comes entirely making it easier to swap CV shafts. There is a chance that if you knock out those studs, you can remove the shaft without disassembling your suspension.
If all of this suspension surgery is affecting your alignment I have instructions on our site you can follow to align the truck yourself. www.sdori.com
Frank
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kawazx636
The Classifieds GraveYard
34
10-06-2021 03:03 PM
FS[MidWest]: 1.5" ball joint spacers
4x4YOTA
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
2
08-23-2016 09:08 AM
FS[SouthCent]: TX - 4Crawler Ball Joint spacers
crash813
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
0
09-27-2015 07:15 AM
Odin
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
09-26-2015 06:56 PM