The fuel sending unit in my '88 4Runner SR5 works at the upper range, i.e., when tank is filled it works fine until about 90 miles driven then drops to empty. The low fuel light works fine. I wanted to pull the sender and see if the problem is fixable. Do I have to drop the gas tank or is there an easier approach to removing the fuel sending unit?

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There is an access panel under the PS rear seat. Fold it forward and it should be under there. Just make sure the tank is fairly empty to avoid spillage.

On 4Runners the sending unit and fuel pump bracket are all one unit, the low fuel light sender is a seperate unit mounted a few inches from the sending unit.

couldnt been explained any better...

wow look at all this attention to detail

Soooo....on the first generation 4Runner is the fuel sending unit potentially repairable or do I need to have a new unit?

just buy new.... less worries

When i pulled the fuel pump on my 86 4Runner i thought the sending unit and fuel pump were together, (its been a while ago since i did it) i guess old timers is kicking in. In a way that kind of sucks because i need to replace the sending unit in my 4Runner, so now i need to pull the tank to do it.

I must say; a perfect thread. fully persuaded like Jesus, completely resolved, with pics, and definitive information on year model changes. Devestatingly accurate for some, to the point of near insanity, but you now know what must be done- Like Colonel Kurtz. Mine is running perfect, but i will have no questions, if a a prob arises , in the future.
A big Kudos, and warm nog and toilet paper goes out to myyota
and yota4runna...

do the sell that resistor you need at radio shack?

Where can I buy the fuel sending unit? I'm having a hard time finding them and I need one.

Yes, x2. Inquiring minds want to know. Any place other than the dealer?

Thanks!

would this one work?

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...t/A483262.html

The only way that one will work is if you add the autometer fuel gauge that goes with it.
The resistance of that sender is 33 ohms (full) to 240 ohms (empty). The resistance of a Toyota sending unit is 3 plus 2 or minus 3 ohms (full) to 110 plus or minus 7.7 ohms (empty). Basically any ohmic readings from 0 to 117.7 ohms (full to empty) on a Toyota sending unit are within spec. In my area there is a outfit that sells new gas tanks and parts as well as used tanks, gauge sender assemblies, etc. that come from southern (non rust climate) vehicles. See if there is a company like this near you. That would be your best bet, I doubt if you would ever find one at a dealership and if you did it would probably cost more than your truck!

Im getting ready to replace my sending unit in an 89 1st gen. How difficult is it to drop the tank? Any advice on the procedure? I have looked around and could not find what im looking for.
Could not find anything but the component /parts lay out in the service manual. Did find a bit on removal and instllation in the Chilton Book.

step 1 start with a tank on empty and just un bolt and drop it out...

a second person makes it hand or a floor jakey will work.. place truck on jackstands and disconnect the neg battery terminal.

avoid making sparks and smoking ciggerates while under truck while fumes are venting from disconnect filler neck.


grounding the truck chassi to a good know earth ground will prevent any static electric expolsions that could occur.. not likey but can happen..

there was just a recent thread on this a week or two ago. Spelling out the pros and cons to either dropping the tank or lifting the bed. IMHO it's safer parts wise to drop the tank than it is to lift the bed. Especially if you like in a salt belt like in PA, NY, NJ etc etc.

I believe this because when I took my bed off, I had major issues with the hardware breaking free from the bed mounts and if I had to put it back on I would have had to weld the bolts back onto the bed to get it back on.

Doing this with the fuel tank hardware is a heck of a lot easier in case of hardware failure. Fortunately for me dropping my tank is now more risky than lifting my flatbed. My level sender is now kaput and searching for one for a while now. $90 at dealership seems kinda steep to me. But if this one lasted this long 175,000 miles and 23 years, it might be worth it. Have not made up my mind to go junkyard hopping for one yet.

go, the cheap route 5 gallon gas tank strapped in the bed at all times

lol already doing that. LMAO.

maybe go to TSC and get a bed fuel tank.. and plumb it into your fuel tank.. so you can have a 1 months supply of fuel for driving around..

Allright. After picking up my new sending unit for the dealership, I deciede to tackel the project as I had 3 hours to kill. Was looking forward to it not taking that long.
1. Disconnected the negative battery cable.

2.Took the gas cap off.

3.Pulled the access cover under the seat and disconected the fill hose and breather hose? Covered both holes with a rag.

4.Removed the skid plate

5. Loosend the 3 front bolts holding the gas tank, but did not remove them. Tank was being supported by jack. Fuel tank had about 2-3 gallons in it.

6. removed the 3 rear bolts, lowered the aft part of the tank about 1 foot. All lines had plenty of room and none were binding.This gave a really great working area and access to the sending unit plus connector.

7. removed sending unit using a small phillips screwdriver. Removed old fuel sending unit and disconnected the wire connector.
Installed new unit using supplied screws and new rubber gasket. Connected wire harness. Raised tank back into original location, installed bolts,skid plate , fuel filler hoses and gas cap.

8. About 1 hour to complete.

wow, your lucky you didnt have a bolt break on you or was completely rusted out..

i've been down that road before...

Please do you and anyone else that might have the pleasure of buying a truck previously owned by you a favor, and abandon this mentality.


Please.


When someone can figure out why ppl have a problem with a part that lasted well over 100,000 miles, and feels they have to put CRAP like this in to fix it, will they please let me know?

Was OEM such a low quality part?

Don't answer that... (I, already know)

I'm in that boat NOW! My 87 4Runner's gas tank bolts just WON'T come out. The heads have since been stripped and I'm at a loss for how to get it out.

Does the 1987 4-Runner also have the access panel? I don't recall seeing one the last time I had the interior removed for the stereo install


Needless to say the sending unit is bad, and with over 250K on her - I;d like to replace the fuel pump.

Any pointers? I'm not a welder so I don't have access to any cutting torches or what not (and we're dealing with a gas tank here :p ). To top it off, the truck doesn't currently run (awaiting a motor swap) and has been parked for 10 years and has 10 year old gas in the tank (probably turned into varnish by now )

Thanks so much!

this is what you do... drop the tank.. drain and flush tank.. sevral times.... like stick your garden hose in the tank and turn it on... and flush away.. gassy water is good to kill weeds in the cracks of side walk and driveway.. and wont leave a a oilly stain

you need to take the time to flush, because you will like the skinn on your hands once you bust out the drill and drill those bolts out..


tip grind cut and torch and drill on your tank with water in the tank.. no fumes no fire no expolsuion.. and yes your garage wont burn down in the process..

after flushing with water for a few hours let tank dry out... get all water out.. a air gun from harbor frieght tools with a extended reach nozzle will work great to get down into the tank..

use your nose as a gauge to determine wether or not you still need to flush the tank.. if its still smells strong with gas.. put your wife on hose detail..