vfontana01

hey yotatech, i bought a 91 22re about a year ago, ran fine and never any electrical problems. and this last month or two i have had nothing but problems. it wont hold a charge and now i cant even dive it cause it wont start without a jump and every time i use power (ex.head lights break lights a,c radio) the truck dies and wont start unless jumped again. it has a new battery and alt. and i check everyground wire. a couple things i found while checking for wiring problems,was 40amp AM1 fuse blown I replaced it. also there is ignition wires jumped together and the stereo is jumped from an ignition wire as well. another thing is you have to barley turn the key in the right spot to get it to start. if you just turn the key all the way over it wont make contact, if that makes any sence. so my question is would a faulty ignition switch cause my battery not to charge. changing the fuse didnt do anything... any advice would be helpfull thank you in advance

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Cant see why it just started acting up, but I have solved several electrical issues from a aftermarket stereo that some one just spliced the wires instead of buying a wiring kit. That would be where I would start. Also try getting your jumped wires back to where they should be. Sounds like someone just juryrigged a problem.

myyota

It also sounds like you have a bad ignition switch (the electrical part). I had to replace the ignition switch on my 86 4Runner because it was worn out from age and use.

scope103

You need a voltmeter. (No excuse not to have one http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-92020.html) A charged battery is about 12.5 volts (temperature dependent). When the truck is running, the alternator should hold it at about 14.1 volts.

A battery that "won't hold a charge" is a bad battery, so I'm guessing you're actually not charging it (so you have less than 14.1 volts when running). You could have a "parasitic draw" when the truck is off. All trucks pull about 5-50ma when off just to keep the clock running, but your battery should be able to deliver that for a couple of weeks. You may have a short somewhere that is running the battery down in hours.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just how did you check your grounds??

Remove them clean the connections.

Check for burnt and brittle wires.

Bottom line the ECU is not seeing enough voltage when you put a electrical drain on the system.

During these problems your charge light and brake lights are not coming on??

The ground point for the ECU can be real finicky

Another place to check is the wire coming off the B terminal of the alternator this also becomes brittle and burnt with age.

Battery terminals clean and tight.

Alternator belt is tight:wabbit2:

Trying to check these things without a multimeter can be very frustrating

Once the vehicle is running even with a switch problem it should charge.

It is possible you may have received a bad alternator or battery.

Then again a Hacked wiring job could be your whole problem hard to tell

abecedarian

and don't forget the main B+ supply wire to the under-hood fuse block itself.
It's known to corrode.

jerry507

Just buy a multimeter. With a single measurement at the battery terminals you can tell if you're charging or not. You also get resistance and continuity measurements which just save you tons of time.

vfontana01

ok i bought a multimeter when the truck is running i am getting about 12.5 volts on the battery and 14.4 volts from alternator. i took off all the jumped wires from ignition rechecked all grounds they are tight and clean. i let the truck run for about 20 min i turned it off and when i try to start it again it act likes the bat is dead and the starter solinoid wont even click. i rechecked bat. volt and is still about 12.5. the only way to restart truck is to jump start again. im thinking the ignition swithch is not making contact but dont want to spend money on something i dont need. and what voltage should i get the fuse block with the truck not running? any ideas anything will help? thanks again

scope103

When running, you need to have the 14.4v AT THE BATTERY. Since you only have 12.5, the battery is not charging. Since you do have it at the alternator, the connection from the alternator (the "S" cable) to the battery is probably bad. Remember that the cable might be "good enough" to measure low resistance, but when pushing a lot of current through it, all the voltage is dropped.