Acceptable oil leak?
10-23-2011, 10:47 AM
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Acceptable oil leak?
This is probably more of a matter of opinion but I figured I would get some input.
I had a slight leak, nothing major but just an annoyance. So, I just pulled my oil pump and replaced the seal in the pump and the o-ring that mates the pump to the t-chain cover. I'm still leaking a little out of the oil pump main seal that the under-drive pulley goes in to. It's nothing serious, it started out at about one drop every 15 seconds. After the engine warmed up and I let it idle with a little bit of revving here and there it slowed to about one drop every 30 seconds. I'm new to 22re's so I'm not sure if this is normal for this particular seal to leak a little. I know this isn't going to hurt anything but it is still irritating me!
Being a helicopter mechanic we kind of have an unwritten rule that if something is leaking then you know it has fluids... when it stops leaking then you have something to worry about! I'm not too fond of this rule on my vehicles, I'm too anal with my maintenance.
I just got my oil pan to seal completely after re-doing it twice! I finally broke down and bought some FIPG from the dealership. I had to put my oil pan on a metal block and use a fat punch to hammer the torqued down bolt holes so they're flat. After I made sure the pan was flat and used a proper amount of FIPG it sealed completely and doesn't leak at all. But this dang oil pump is an annoyance!!!
So here's my question to everyone:
What would you guys consider an acceptable oil leak (if there is such a thing)?
I had a slight leak, nothing major but just an annoyance. So, I just pulled my oil pump and replaced the seal in the pump and the o-ring that mates the pump to the t-chain cover. I'm still leaking a little out of the oil pump main seal that the under-drive pulley goes in to. It's nothing serious, it started out at about one drop every 15 seconds. After the engine warmed up and I let it idle with a little bit of revving here and there it slowed to about one drop every 30 seconds. I'm new to 22re's so I'm not sure if this is normal for this particular seal to leak a little. I know this isn't going to hurt anything but it is still irritating me!
Being a helicopter mechanic we kind of have an unwritten rule that if something is leaking then you know it has fluids... when it stops leaking then you have something to worry about! I'm not too fond of this rule on my vehicles, I'm too anal with my maintenance.
I just got my oil pan to seal completely after re-doing it twice! I finally broke down and bought some FIPG from the dealership. I had to put my oil pan on a metal block and use a fat punch to hammer the torqued down bolt holes so they're flat. After I made sure the pan was flat and used a proper amount of FIPG it sealed completely and doesn't leak at all. But this dang oil pump is an annoyance!!!
So here's my question to everyone:
What would you guys consider an acceptable oil leak (if there is such a thing)?
10-23-2011, 11:42 AM
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my front axle seal leaks and we have replaced it like twice and my oil pan leaks a little when it gets warm and i find it acceptable till my front diff locks up and implodes
10-23-2011, 08:03 PM
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My 3vze leaks about a quart every 2 months from the valve covers... yet it NEVER leaves a drop on the floor. It only leaks when I'm running over 3500rpm.
I say deal with your leaks when they start to leave little "presents" for you under your truck.
I say deal with your leaks when they start to leave little "presents" for you under your truck.
10-23-2011, 10:10 PM
#4
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No oil leak is the only acceptable one!
Is there a groove where the seal meets that sealing surface or any pitting? Did you lube the seal when you installed it? No, it should not leak, not even a drop. It is a fast easy fix compared to many. Might as well check it all out and do it right. Fix your leaks... or they will drive you NUTS!
Is there a groove where the seal meets that sealing surface or any pitting? Did you lube the seal when you installed it? No, it should not leak, not even a drop. It is a fast easy fix compared to many. Might as well check it all out and do it right. Fix your leaks... or they will drive you NUTS!
10-23-2011, 10:29 PM
#5
No oil leak is the only acceptable one!
Is there a groove where the seal meets that sealing surface or any pitting? Did you lube the seal when you installed it? No, it should not leak, not even a drop. It is a fast easy fix compared to many. Might as well check it all out and do it right. Fix your leaks... or they will drive you NUTS!
Is there a groove where the seal meets that sealing surface or any pitting? Did you lube the seal when you installed it? No, it should not leak, not even a drop. It is a fast easy fix compared to many. Might as well check it all out and do it right. Fix your leaks... or they will drive you NUTS!
There are repair kits that give you seal and a sleave that goes over the pulley where it would contact the sleave.
10-23-2011, 10:34 PM
#6
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Do not seal n sleeve. Buy a new damper and seal. Come on now... Don't band-aid fix something. It is never a good solution.
Sleeve n seals are like a 50/50 shot of fixing the problem. New parts.. =100% fix.
At least that is from my experience being a mechanic... Just had a problem with this thursday on a customer's car. We won't even warranty our work on a sleeve n seal because we recommend against it due to the failure rate of those stupid kits.. But we will always stand by our work putting on new parts. Customer was willing to pay the extra 50$ for that 100k+ miles of peace o' mind. We didn't make any extra off it. Its strictly keeping you from wasting away money.
just my 2Cents.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Harmoni.../dp/B000EAEJGW
Sleeve n seals are like a 50/50 shot of fixing the problem. New parts.. =100% fix.
At least that is from my experience being a mechanic... Just had a problem with this thursday on a customer's car. We won't even warranty our work on a sleeve n seal because we recommend against it due to the failure rate of those stupid kits.. But we will always stand by our work putting on new parts. Customer was willing to pay the extra 50$ for that 100k+ miles of peace o' mind. We didn't make any extra off it. Its strictly keeping you from wasting away money.
just my 2Cents.
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Harmoni.../dp/B000EAEJGW
Last edited by 4x4climber; 10-23-2011 at 11:21 PM.
10-23-2011, 11:17 PM
#7
How long ago was the timing chain done??
If I was taking things apart I might do it then.
It is also possible to machine the worn grove out and go to what ever size seal you now need . But if you need to pay someone it is not cost effective.
Just cheaper to buy a new one.
If I was taking things apart I might do it then.
It is also possible to machine the worn grove out and go to what ever size seal you now need . But if you need to pay someone it is not cost effective.
Just cheaper to buy a new one.
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10-24-2011, 02:25 AM
#8
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I'm with ya 4x4climber!
I don't like anything leaking. I do need a new harmonic balancer, it's slightly grooved where the surface meets the seal. I was wondering if it will give me troubles and now I know. I have seen the balancers for $100 at my local parts store, $70 from amazon looks way better though!
I don't like anything leaking. I do need a new harmonic balancer, it's slightly grooved where the surface meets the seal. I was wondering if it will give me troubles and now I know. I have seen the balancers for $100 at my local parts store, $70 from amazon looks way better though!
10-24-2011, 06:41 AM
#9
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There is no need for a new balancer. Toyota makes an updated seal that seats further in the oil pump housing that will not ride on the groove of the original seal. It is designed for this exact situation and will seal in a different place on the crank.
Don't know the exact part number, but call Toyota and they will get it for you.
Don't know the exact part number, but call Toyota and they will get it for you.
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