? about what will happen to front diff
#21
#22
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All these responses to just leave it is also the exact reason I do a twice over before I buy a "new to me" truck........Seriously you'd knowingly leave something in there? It's a cheep and easy fix.....
#23
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thanks for all of the advice, its not my DD, will try to get it out will flush again, if not will try the vacuum , if that dont well i will rethink the other options
#24
This is silly, its like saying a rifle bullet could be stopped dead by a single tissue paper. You can pinch that plastic down to nothing (lets a couple thou of an inch) with a pair of needle nose pliers (between the jaws its maybe 200psi at most). A quick google search shows that a stock Toyota CV will take about 6500 ft-lbs (recall a foot is 12"). The front ring gear is 7" (6" to the centre of the ring teeth). If the CVs (1.5" diameter) can take 6500lbs, then the ring gear (being 6" to the centre of the teeth) should take more than (CV outer joints being the weak link in the front drive train) more than 1625 psi on the face of the gear teeth given the assumption that there is a generous full square inch of teeth engagement. In reality, there is probably only 1/3 inch square tooth contact at any one point (so 3x 1625= ~5000psi pressure on the teeth). So, the plastic cap crushes down to nothing at a couple hundred psi. The point is, that plastic cap will be no obstact to the gear teeth. Wow, I'm never getting those ten min back.
As for blocking oil passages, the oil is agitated by the gears themselves and washes back and forth through a passage I could stick my thumb through- no risk there. There is not pumping mechanism on (low pinion) diffs, even the oil slinger on a high pinion would cut that that oil cap up like a Slap Chop (RIP Billy May) cuts up a carrot.
Best spend the $10 for oil on something useful, like a ... well, a Slap Chop for instance
As for blocking oil passages, the oil is agitated by the gears themselves and washes back and forth through a passage I could stick my thumb through- no risk there. There is not pumping mechanism on (low pinion) diffs, even the oil slinger on a high pinion would cut that that oil cap up like a Slap Chop (RIP Billy May) cuts up a carrot.
Best spend the $10 for oil on something useful, like a ... well, a Slap Chop for instance
Last edited by Matt16; 10-30-2009 at 10:51 AM.
#25
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Im with Matt.. this is a little silly The front diff just sits there till you put it in 4wd, it doesnt get that much mileage.. unless its just a wheelin rig.
Drive it!
Drive it!
#26
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I'd still problaby get it out. Sense the dif is already opened I'd go ahead and put a locker in it. Yeah a little more work and cash but so worth it. Oh yeah, I got a locker, I'd get the plastic out. Nothing smashes into nothing. An open stocker, maybe/maybe not. Besides the guy will learn more about his truck than he currently knows.
#28
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I really wouldn't worry about it. Heck I put 1.5oz of number 9 lead shot in my front diff to help keep the fluid stable because I use it so little. The lead hasn't hurt anything so I'm guessing the plastic will be ok.
And you thought I was serious.......
And you thought I was serious.......
#31
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i dropped a straw from a carb-cleaner spray can into my front diff...
it didn't do anything, lol.
i found the little piece of plastic mushed up at the bottom of the diff this summer when i pulled it
it didn't do anything, lol.
i found the little piece of plastic mushed up at the bottom of the diff this summer when i pulled it
#33
A little aside- I was going to put a whole bent up valve in my oil pan before sealing it to mess with the next guy whole opened it up, figured it would have enough weight so that it would never leave the bottom of the oil pan. The only reason I didn't is that i have a propensity for rolling trucks it seems and to roll your truck and THEN, just as your turning off the engine, hearing that valve roll into between the block and a spinning crankshaft would be sort of painful as it probably crack the block as its only cast iron (vs. machined and harden for the valve stem and crank).
#34
The bottle cap is probably polyethylene- just a bunch of carbons strung together with some hydrogens branching off. Oil is also just a chain of carbons strung together with hydrogens branching off, just the chains are shorter. The shorter the chains, the less solid it is.
http://www..com/images/oiltoplasticimage.gif
http://www..com/images/oiltoplasticimage.gif
#36
Probably shock load (in general, all diffs), then bearing preload loosening off in Toyota diffs, axle housing flex in Dana 35's (and to some extent on Toyota diffs without the bearing tower braces seen on Taco diffs). I know you're getting at oil starvation, but recall that oil serves two major functions. First and foremost, it lubricates. Lubrication is simply the separation of two surfaces by a microscopic layer of oil so that there is no direct metal on metal contact. When a micron of plastic gets between the gear teeth or bearing surfaces the plastic is just going to prevent metal-metal contact between R and P teeth. (Oil also cools by absorbing heat off hot spots and distributing it elsewhere. If you're curious what the second function was.)
Besides, after you start up a truck that's been sitting a while, the teeth don't have much oil on them either and you don't hear of people's diffs grenading on the way out of the long term parking at airports do you.
We're not talking about the OP draining his diff, brake-cleaning it to get all the oil out, then maniacally filling his diff with molten ABS plastic.
Heeeeere's Johnny... and he just put a bottle cap in your diff!
Besides, after you start up a truck that's been sitting a while, the teeth don't have much oil on them either and you don't hear of people's diffs grenading on the way out of the long term parking at airports do you.
We're not talking about the OP draining his diff, brake-cleaning it to get all the oil out, then maniacally filling his diff with molten ABS plastic.
Heeeeere's Johnny... and he just put a bottle cap in your diff!
#37
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Nope not what i was getting at. Ring defection, according to ZUK. So this plastic cap that's made from oil and has all those extra chemicals so it doesn't turn back to the oil it was made from. That can be smash with needle nose pliers and the gears produce so much more lbs per inch ^2. But it still doesn't get squished into no existance. So its all nice a flat but gets pushed through the ring and pinion on an older setup with a little extra bearing play. As driver guy stumps the gas to throttle through an obsticle. And tards now ol' boy is getting towed to the hard top in 2wd. Getting clowned by his gay buddies in jeeps.
If not for the plastic cap.....
Will you be the one playing pivotman
After all we're not
If not for the plastic cap.....
Will you be the one playing pivotman
After all we're not