95 4runner replaced timing belt, now it won't start.....
#22
Team420: I don't think it skipped a tooth because it starts and sounds ok when I spray starter fluid in the intake through the brake booster vacuum hose input. I will check the alignment of the RH cam pulley later tonight. Would skipping a tooth prevent the injectors from opening?
I rechecked the grounds between the pins on the ECU and the engine block, head, & plenum and (-) battery post. The E1,E2,E01,E02, and E21 all disconnect when the ignition is on. The E1 to door strike plate or jumper cable connected to the negative post shows 1.5V when the ignition is switched on. I'm guessing that on a 15 yr old truck someone's "improved" the wiring or the diagram I'm working from is the wrong one or I've ruined the computer somehow. The battery terminal to the various engine components all seem fine with the ignition on or off.
As far as I know I did not reconnect the battery cables the wrong way, but I did short across from the + terminal to the radiator with a wrench and got a brief flash. Which probably did something bad somewhere. Maybe its time for another ECM.
I rechecked the grounds between the pins on the ECU and the engine block, head, & plenum and (-) battery post. The E1,E2,E01,E02, and E21 all disconnect when the ignition is on. The E1 to door strike plate or jumper cable connected to the negative post shows 1.5V when the ignition is switched on. I'm guessing that on a 15 yr old truck someone's "improved" the wiring or the diagram I'm working from is the wrong one or I've ruined the computer somehow. The battery terminal to the various engine components all seem fine with the ignition on or off.
As far as I know I did not reconnect the battery cables the wrong way, but I did short across from the + terminal to the radiator with a wrench and got a brief flash. Which probably did something bad somewhere. Maybe its time for another ECM.
#23
Registered User
I rechecked the grounds between the pins on the ECU and the engine block, head, & plenum and (-) battery post. The E1,E2,E01,E02, and E21 all disconnect when the ignition is on. The E1 to door strike plate or jumper cable connected to the negative post shows 1.5V when the ignition is switched on. I'm guessing that on a 15 yr old truck someone's "improved" the wiring or the diagram I'm working from is the wrong one or I've ruined the computer somehow. The battery terminal to the various engine components all seem fine with the ignition on or off.
As far as I know I did not reconnect the battery cables the wrong way, but I did short across from the + terminal to the radiator with a wrench and got a brief flash. Which probably did something bad somewhere. Maybe its time for another ECM.
As far as I know I did not reconnect the battery cables the wrong way, but I did short across from the + terminal to the radiator with a wrench and got a brief flash. Which probably did something bad somewhere. Maybe its time for another ECM.
I wouldn't be so quick to blame the computer. It may be bad, but it sounds like something is misconnected somewhere. That's a tough job of troubleshooting, but I would start by trying to trace the wiring from terminals E01/E02 to their ground point on the motor, wherever that is.
If your chassis and engine grounds are sound, your brief arc from pos batt post to radiator shouldn't have done anything except give you a little shot of adrenaline.
#25
So I forgot to bolt down the ground underneath the plenum that goes from the injector fuel rail to the passenger side cylinder head. Pretty obvious once I took the plenum back off. Once I did connected it and reassembled everything it started up and ran just fine. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot this.
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