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95 4runner replaced timing belt, now it won't start.....

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Old 06-02-2009, 11:47 AM
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not to be a jerk here.... but.... are you 100% positive the crank didnt jump a tooth when re-installing it? I had a hell of a time the first time I did it.
Old 06-02-2009, 04:04 PM
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Team420: I don't think it skipped a tooth because it starts and sounds ok when I spray starter fluid in the intake through the brake booster vacuum hose input. I will check the alignment of the RH cam pulley later tonight. Would skipping a tooth prevent the injectors from opening?

I rechecked the grounds between the pins on the ECU and the engine block, head, & plenum and (-) battery post. The E1,E2,E01,E02, and E21 all disconnect when the ignition is on. The E1 to door strike plate or jumper cable connected to the negative post shows 1.5V when the ignition is switched on. I'm guessing that on a 15 yr old truck someone's "improved" the wiring or the diagram I'm working from is the wrong one or I've ruined the computer somehow. The battery terminal to the various engine components all seem fine with the ignition on or off.

As far as I know I did not reconnect the battery cables the wrong way, but I did short across from the + terminal to the radiator with a wrench and got a brief flash. Which probably did something bad somewhere. Maybe its time for another ECM.
Old 06-02-2009, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pdebruic
I rechecked the grounds between the pins on the ECU and the engine block, head, & plenum and (-) battery post. The E1,E2,E01,E02, and E21 all disconnect when the ignition is on. The E1 to door strike plate or jumper cable connected to the negative post shows 1.5V when the ignition is switched on. I'm guessing that on a 15 yr old truck someone's "improved" the wiring or the diagram I'm working from is the wrong one or I've ruined the computer somehow. The battery terminal to the various engine components all seem fine with the ignition on or off.

As far as I know I did not reconnect the battery cables the wrong way, but I did short across from the + terminal to the radiator with a wrench and got a brief flash. Which probably did something bad somewhere. Maybe its time for another ECM.
Something isn't adding up, because E01/E02 and E1 should all have hardwired connections to ground, that should not be able to be "disconnected". You're using the multimeter in the continuity test position? How about reading resistance between E01/E02 and neg batt post? Should be very low. Likewise between E1 & batt neg. E2 as I mentioned grounds through the ecu. E21 is hardwired to E2.

I wouldn't be so quick to blame the computer. It may be bad, but it sounds like something is misconnected somewhere. That's a tough job of troubleshooting, but I would start by trying to trace the wiring from terminals E01/E02 to their ground point on the motor, wherever that is.

If your chassis and engine grounds are sound, your brief arc from pos batt post to radiator shouldn't have done anything except give you a little shot of adrenaline.
Old 06-02-2009, 05:12 PM
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You may also be 180* out of phase on the timing. Are you sure you were TDC when you installed the belt.
Old 06-03-2009, 10:47 AM
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So I forgot to bolt down the ground underneath the plenum that goes from the injector fuel rail to the passenger side cylinder head. Pretty obvious once I took the plenum back off. Once I did connected it and reassembled everything it started up and ran just fine. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot this.
Old 06-03-2009, 02:36 PM
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Nice job to find it - those are tough to track down sometimes.
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