mcskittle

Hi, im new here and am hoping some one help. I have a 94 toyota pickup 4wd 3.0 v6. It starts after cranking for a min. It runs very rough and wont stay idling unless I touch the gas and even then if If open it all the way up it takes a long time to rev up. I just got the truck and I have already replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, fpr, fuel filter, and it looks like the timing belt has been replaced as it looks brand new. It sounds like its more popping than running lol.Li will try to get a video on monday but hoping for some guidence. I checked the timing oand its at 0 tdc compression with the dizzy pointed at 1 I have pulled the return line from the fpr and it shoots a steady stream of gas. I have done a compression test wich turned out fine. And like I said before the throttle is very unresponsive. Thanks in advance.

rbmoomba

I would focus on the timing. Did you use a jumper when checking and adjusting the timing? What is the timing set at 10-14 degrees is where you want to be. Good luck! Once timing is in check your throttle response should improve

ksti

How many miles are on your rig?
Your TPS could also be a concern.
As mentioned make sure timing is right and then see where your at.

mcskittle

no I didnt use a jumper, please explain.
and you mean 10-14 degrees at idle, right?

ksti

Take a paper clip and jump TE1 and E1 on diagnostic port.
Check engine light should flash at constant.
Then set timing at 10o BTDC (yes at idle) and see if it works for you.
If you don't have a manual download one, your going to need it for the future.

mcskittle

Ok but it wont stay idling and I will buy a manual in a few minutes.

ksti

Your going to have to get it to idle to set timing.
Adjust idle air screw to get idle at 800 + - 50 and then set timing and then re check idle.

mcskittle

Ok I will try that and get back to you. Why do you have to use a jumper to set the timing? And thanks for your help.

mcskittle

Ok so I am going to work on the truck tomorrow and I think im going to redo the timimg completely. Will let you know how it goes.

bone collector

http://ether3al.physic.al/93fsm-mobile/


save this link, it is extremely helpful. I just did the head gaskets on my 3.0 and used this link as a step by step. study it and learn it.


Now to your problem. If you jump the diagnosis port in e1 and te1 does the check engine light flash? Does it throw a code? if it is a constant flash then there is no code. I am betting that the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is off or the afm is off. those are the 2 usual suspects. Check the codes, check the timing and report back. We will help you as best we can.

Bills86e

Pull the rubber tube off the top of the EGR, if it smoothes out, the modulator filter needs cleaned, and more than likly the three vacuum lines passenger side
from VSV is mis-routed! This has happened before when the plenom gets removed and the three hoses get mis-routed by the mechanic, a big mistake!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51141054
The modulator cap pulls off. I suggest you buy a can of CRC throttle body cleaner to clean that, and then clean the throttle body plate/interior air tunnel.
Hope this helps, Wild Bill Ensminger

mcskittle

Ok I did the timing and set it 10°@ idle.
and put new spark plugs in because the previous ones were soaked with gas. It made a huge difference and it is now very responsive. But it still idles a little rough and very rich. It smokes and the exhaust smells like gas due to running rich. What should I check for the rich smoke.

bone collector

how old is the o2 sensor? any codes?

mcskittle

O2 sensor about a year. And no codes.

Bills86e

read post #11

bone collector

Better yet. Eliminate the egr.... its worthless

mcskittle

Ok. So. I fixed the vacuum kines on the passenger side replaced the afm since I work at a wrecking yard. And it all made a huge difference. Now it doesnt smoke when I start it but when I press the gas it shoot out black smoke and then when I let off the gas it turns to white smoke then goes away but it idles stable and sounds good and healthy.

ksti

Sounds kinda weird the way you explained it, maybe you should do a compression check and block check for good measures.
It shouldn't smoke period.

mcskittle

I just did an oil change and the old oil smells like gas. Compression Is about 120 across all cylinders.

ksti

Did you do procedure for compression check per FSM?
120 psi is low min. is 142 psi with a 14 psi difference between cylinders.
Did you disconnect cold start injector and have WOT when testing each cylinder?