Tolbert

Unfortunately I haven't put the rotors on yet. After watching some youtube videos I realized I need new locking washers and I want to change the seal on the back of the hub. So I ordered them since I can't find any parts local. If they get here by sunday I will get them done then. I will let you guys know how it went.

I figured out my problem with the hubs. They were bought from a fellow member who advised me he found them in the junkyard and he didn't know if they even worked. So I don't blame him at all. There are 26 splines like it should have for a ifs truck. But the hub part is from a sfa truck. I noticed the raised grips on the dial and then I found out the clutch on the sfa is longer. Mine is longer and won't pull back far enough to disengage. So off to the junk yard for some clutches. I will use the same face plate since they are interchangeable.

I found a great write up that explains the differences. I have included some pics to show what mine came with.

http://www.se4rj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=293

Longer clutch


Dial

Buck&DuckRig

man that sucks you went through the trouble but at least it will be a easy fix with the right parts

Tolbert

Anyone here about changing the multipiece driveline to a one piece. My carrier bearing is shot and I was planning on changing it and my buddy told me I should just get a single line.

JayKray

I just installed mine yesterday. A one-piece requires parallel flanges. I ordered 9 degree shims to twist my rear diff down to make the flange vertical, but I don't have them yet. I drove a few miles yesterday and had no noticeable vibration, but I didn't get past 60 mph. I'm sure I would shorten the lifespan of my u-joint dramatically if I continued to drive like that.

Tolbert

I have been gathering the parts for the new rotors. But it seems like not one place has all the parts. I still need new seals for the back of the axle. Here's a pic of the parts so far for new rotors and manual hubs. I am still looking for the pawl for the locking hub, no luck at the junk yard.



While I am waiting I got started with repainting the hubs.


And just for fun,

Tolbert

I am starting to realize what everyone says about the 3vze motor. It is a pain to work on but when I realize it is 20+ years old and that seems to be the big problem. I found the fuel pressure damper to be leaking the gas. After tracking down all the needed gaskets, I started the job of replacing the damper.

4 broken vacuum lines, 1 broken BVSV, power steering pump, still need the power steering pump idle up valve, 1 new power steering hose line, and now a check engine light I can finally drive the truck without leaking gas. Oh and the damper.

It took almost a week to get it done but I drove it out to the Mojave Desert this weekend and it did great. No real 4 wheel drive trails, but a lot of off road.

Field Road out in Mojave looking for Agates


Still need to do the brakes. I just got the hub seals so I have everything. Also still looking for the prawl that goes into the manual hubs. No luck at the junk yard here.

Wade38sp

Did you replace the dust seal on the back side of the knuckle before installing your CV axle? I have a 92 4Runner and I cant find this seal. Toyota said they superceeded to another seal that is impossible to use.

Tolbert

My new cv axles had the dust shield installed on them. The first set I got was bent so I sent them back. Summit Racing overnighted me a new set and they too had the dust shield installed.

Wade38sp

So you don't have a another seal pressed into the back side of the knuckle where the brass bushing is? That is the seal I am having a hard time finding. Perhaps they eliminated it and use a seal on the axle now?

Tolbert

I didn't look at the back of the knuckle. I saw the new seal on the cv axles and didn't think they would of had another on the back of the knuckle.

So while looking for a set of hubs, I found a guy parting out his 4runnner. He has the hubs and a non add axle tube. I read that they can be easily swapped out to get rid of the add system. I was wondering that if I got rid of it how would I make the little light on the dash still come on when the tranny is engaged but since there will no longer be a add tube, how will it work. Or what can I do to make it work.

Tolbert

I have been enjoying my truck for a little while now and now another problem. It just started one day where it was very sluggish and it wasn't shifting into overdrive. I soon realized that I had also lost 1st gear. So I have been driving it around in 2nd and 3rd gear only. After checking everything easy to get to no check engine or trans light on I think one of my shift solenoids are out. I think number 2 is stuck. I found all 3 today at the junk yard and I tested them. They are all working great. Unless anyone has another suggestion, I am thinking htis is my problem. Any ideas?

Tolbert

It has been a while since I updated anything with the truck. I finally got around to doing the front brakes. Wheel bearings were in great shape, so i only needed to repack. After all the grease and grime, here they are. It is so weird to not have warped rotors. It took a week to get use to them.

Tolbert

Every since I got my truck the back fender flares have been missing. And the dealership wants 350 for the rear pair. I decided I could get the Bushwacker front and back cheaper, plus when I get new tires I will need the extra coverage. Here is a before and after.