skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Ok; here's cheap. Get a roll of 12ga wire, crimper, flags, and PB switch. Run a wire to the starter solenoid contact. Make a "Y" harness so the key may work on a good day. Run the first wire from the starter to the inside the cab, then a second wire from the hot side of the battery to the PB inside where you can reach it. use the PB to turn the engine over when the key fails.

Or just replace the ignition switch in the column.

swerks

good info here, how hard is it to replace ignition switch ?

mldave

@ Skypilot,should one of those wires have a inline fuse?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

You should have one at the battery end; but when pinching pennies you take shortcuts that can bite you rather hard. I have no fuse on mine at the moment, but a 10amp fuse will do fine for current load. Or you can skip all that and just manually touch the wire to the battery post to spin the starter. The wire is dead until you make the connection but is does spark and the wires gets warm when you use it. I'm used to it, but many are not so a PB next to the shifter works without drama. Just a trick from the old days of cars, back when you used a screwdriver amid a shower of sparks.

Best bet is to bite the bullet and replace the ignition switch; which for some reason the engineers ran starter power through instead of using a Ford motor company starter relay. Whats there works but sooner or later the key switch fails under load and the clicks begin.

swerks

so now I just get clicks when I turn on my headlights too. my battery is good. I dont know whats going on ????

mldave

Thanks for the reply Skypilot.This will be a pushbutton on the lower dash.I see your nearby my old hometown of Brooklyn.

Kingjerd

I had this exact problem just last week. I went to autozone and replaced both positive and negative battery cables for $12. Then a new battery and BAM (!) it starts like a friggin champ now!

Start with your least expensive option first. New cables never hurt any truck.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad you found your problem so easily!

You see; I am assuming that the simple & easy things are done first. Cleaning terminals, making sure everything is clean & tight and that you have a decent battery are the first things anyone with any problems should do first. I have seen plenty of issues solved by baking soda & brushing. A lot of new cables are actually made so poorly they are the problem, since the large AWG wires twisted together actually limit current flow.

Its the nut buster, does not want to work solutions that make things really interesting.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Check you grounds to the chassis. Bet they are rusted. Pull the grill and pull a bulb. If you have a shorted bulb (very bizzarre) just pull one and see if one works, then swap them, and test again. Also try your high beams you migh just have both low beams blown too.

Start simple and with the basics

RAD4Runner

Your headlight relay will energize with little voltage and current, so you hear it click. However, as soon as relay contacts close and large current passes through, too much voltage drop develop across poor connections (i.e., bad ground),and your lights will not get enough power to turn them on.

Yeah, many chassis ground connections, if not corroded are made on painted surface, and rely on contact from ring terminal to screw thread to chassis thread. Unfortunately many screws and ring terminals rust/corrode and end up with high resistance. (see corroded screw and painted potential contacts below)

Each time I touch/check a chassis ground I:

• Clean screw threads with steel brush,
• Clean the ring terminal with fine-grit sandpaper
• Sand paint down to bare metal
  
• Apply conductive (carbon-loaded silicone) grease to all contact surfaces, and
• Reassemble