TOYOTA 1

yep, box is on and working great.

no leaky

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Since this thread is already semi-resurrected I'm gonna append a question to it:

Can the output seal be changed without disassembling the unit? I am thinking about putting the pitman arm off and just pulling the seal out with a pick or screw, and then sliding a new one on. Does it sound like this would work?

Also, a newbie question... the whole steering box is full of ATF, right? I was wondering if the power steering part had ATF in it and the rest of it had gear oil or something.

RMA

what orientation should the box be so they dont fall out?

devo

more steering box info for everyone...
...just pulled mine apart...leaky shaft seal....standard move for these trucks..
..anyways...after a bit of mangling(not much though) with a drift punch on that lock nut that holds the input shaft into it little housing, decided to get the real tool...which is a pin spanner...can get from park tools or other tool shop...
...one hint is to very careful with the teflon o-rings (if you are putting them in from a rebuild kit)...when you stretch 'em to get 'em on...they stay kind too big...so put a piston compreesor or wrap it with a heap of electrical tape for a few hours to get in back to size again....
very important ...if you press it back together and get one of these hung up you will be pulling it apart again and buying more o-rings....they are bastards...
...answer to rustbuckets ?'s no cannot pull that seal on lower shaft....just pull it out from truck...much easier to work on anyway...that part is the easy one....

Duffdog

So, I got a 91 steering box that I wanted to rebuild. Unfortunately, I can't get the piston out! I took the entire thing apart (with all 43 balls out) and can get the piston all the way to the face of the assembly, but it won't come out. I removed the centering pin and spring and still no luck. any ideas? It doesn't seem like there would be anything left to take apart since I have the entire thing already apart except for the piston.

any help is appreciated!

devo

I assume you have the sector shaft out...there is a little plunger nut, I think that you need an allen key to get it out. Its got a spring and a little piston in there that blocks the worm gear from coming out...If you have your rebuild kit, you should be sweet once you get that out...I had a real hard time getting at the main shaft...you will need a pin spanner...mine was so stuck I had to put it in a vice and get on it with a 3ft breaker bar...good luck mate

devo

maybe you got this already...tried to upload a PDF of the gear box expolded view...if you want it PM me with you email and i can send it...its like 200kb...
also this might be handy http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html

this is also helpful...http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/powersteering.htm
..
...a steering box that works and doesnt leak is pretty rad...still have a leaky one on my runner...
laters

Young Guy

So i read through this thread probably 3 times, then decided it was time to replace the leaky seal in my steering box, seeing that i was tired of spending money on power steering fluid and would rather spend the $5 and get a new seal... however after a day of struggling with a rusty line, i got it all out and replaced the seal, captured all those tricky little bearings and placed them back in, lightly greased to stay in place while i tried to feed the worm gear back in. However i noticed that the little spiky "stoppers" where you place the bearings between, the top one was bent down (probably from me yanking the worm gear out upon removal of the bolts) which wasnt allowing the rest of the bearings to fit... So i bent it "back" to what seemed to be the appropriate position and now the bearings had enough room to slide into this "hole" that is formed. I wasnt sure if this was correct or not, but i was tired and figgured it was good enough So now its back in my truck and the first thing i realize, (and very hard to miss) is that i now half a good 1/8 turn slack in the wheel when it is at top dead center.

Now i have no idea if the bearing conundrum i described above has anything to do with this new issue, like i could have possibly missed a number of the bearings and the lack of bearings causes slack? Or if maybe there was some adjusting that needed to be done when reassembling the worm gear and what not... I am sure that there is no air in the lines because i spent a good amount of time bleeding the lines to assure myself of that.

But i thought that i would pick the brains of all my fellow yotatechers before i spend the cash at a junkyard and just buy a low miles one and skip the headache.

Duffdog

so I got the stupid centering shaft thing out after a day of yelling and cursing. First things first, the "hex nut" that held in the centering assembly was rusted and stripped...fine. So, I drilled it out, then the sleeve in there was rusted to the sides and would not come out after I got the spring out. Fine, drilled it out, tapped it and threaded a M10 bolt in there and used a vise with a hammer to get that out, then the T-shaped part of the centering shaft assembly still wouldn't come out, so I had to fashion a special tool out of case steel to use my slide hammer and yank that thing out. Finally it came out and I was able to get the piston out. I'm probably not going to put any part of this "centering shaft" assembly back in and just tap the casting for a 3/4" brass hex plug and leave it.

I then tried to make a Pin spanner with a piece of 1/4" flat bar and some screws, but couldn't find any 2.2mm metal strong enough to remove the power head retaining ring thing.

I noticed that the retaining ring is staked on the power head, I am just assuming that everyone just yanked on the pin spanner hard enough to bend back the stake marks?

Duffdog

Some more good info-- turns out you do not have to take the 8 sided internal nut off...

http://swdr4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=100

dsmbuddy

Just an update, my local NAPA no longer carries the 7007 seal. Spent some time with my parts guy at Toyota and the Toyota part number is 90311-19002 and the seals are still readily available. They likely won't be in-stock, but they can be ordered.