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When something would come up, I'd search answers all over the forum. But now It has been too long, since I have this hard start issue and I pulled all of my hair.
This is not my video but see, how she starts ? Mine does that. Sometimes won't even fire and will die after cranking for a while. Sometimes she will fire up on the second try. Mostly when cold start. Sometimes she'll start right up, well she did 4-5 times after I replaced the FPR with another used one. But she started doing it again not too long after. Im thinking it could maybe be the Starter ? Im also suspecting the BVSV and the EGR. I will post all the parts I changed.
Last edited by pimacdaddy; 09-30-2020 at 05:30 AM.
Did you have this problem intermittently and mostly on cold start or always ?
I had this problem intermittently. At that time I thought my truck had became a phantom truck. It decided when to start or not. It would have started and immediately not start again. It could happen in a cold start or a warm start.
Several of your images of your parts list don't show up. What I'm not seeing here is that you've done any basic tests!
Put your timing light on it, or a spark tester. Are you getting ignition/spark, is it weak?
Put your compression gauge on. Is it low, is it much lower when warm?
Fuel pressure, fuel volume. Plumb the fuel return line into a catch can and trigger the pump with the air vane or test jumper.
Verified the CSI is spraying?
Tried starting-fluid/ether?
Hey thanks for your reply. I took my phone and uploaded the parts picture again and succeeded. I did swap the CSI and it sprayed.
Also the TPS was replaced by a mechanic at Toyota and they set the timing at 5 degree. About the pressure I never did measure it myself but when I got the timing chain replaced at a shop I told them about this issue and on the invoice it says:
"Check Fuel Pressure, sometimes long crank to get started, if wait a few seconds starts up but problem is getting worse
BASIC DIAGNOSTIC LABOUR:
Checked Fuel Pressure, 7-8 PSI, spec is 27-32 PSI, goes to 0 on shut off, need to replace fuel pump”
Of course the geniuses changed it, and didn't even checked pressure afterwards. I guess I sorta got scammed. A month ago when I pulled that invoice from last year, I thought maybe it was the FPR, I swapped it with another one (used and not tested) and I believe the part number is 23280-35030 and the one that was on is part number 23280-35020. I believe they are interchangeable. Anyways I swapped it and for 2-3 days it seemed fine. But na problem still there. How can I trigger the pump with a test jumper ? Im pretty sure the pump is fine. Is the check valve on the pump itself ?
Should I try another FPR ?
Last edited by pimacdaddy; 09-30-2020 at 07:26 AM.
Hey thanks for your reply. I took my phone and uploaded the parts picture again and succeeded. I did swap the CSI and it sprayed.
Also the TPS was replaced by a mechanic at Toyota and they set the timing at 5 degree. About the pressure I never did measure it myself but when I got the timing chain replaced at a shop I told them about this issue and on the invoice it says:
"Check Fuel Pressure, sometimes long crank to get started, if wait a few seconds starts up but problem is getting worse
BASIC DIAGNOSTIC LABOUR:
Checked Fuel Pressure, 7-8 PSI, spec is 27-32 PSI, goes to 0 on shut off, need to replace fuel pump”
Of course the geniuses changed it, and didn't even checked pressure afterwards. I guess I sorta got scammed. A month ago when I pulled that invoice from last year, I thought maybe it was the FPR, I swapped it with another one (used and not tested) and I believe the part number is 23280-35030 and the one that was on is part number 23280-35020. I believe they are interchangeable. Anyways I swapped it and for 2-3 days it seemed fine. But na problem still there. How can I trigger the pump with a test jumper ? Im pretty sure the pump is fine. Is the check valve on the pump itself ?
Should I try another FPR ?
Fuel pump diagnostics connector Plug K These are the diagnostics connectors.
Read it again, if you've got specific questions about these tests ask for more information.
I didn't tell you to check your timing, I want you to verify you have consistent and strong spark during cranking.
If you hhave spark, even poor spark try running the engine on starting fluid. Just pull the intake tube off open the throttle plate and give it a quick blast then turn the key to start. If you can get someone to turn the key you should be able to keep it running by spraying more ether and have narrowed it down to a fuel supply issue.
If it doesn't fire you've got other issues, like valve timing, bad compression, damaged parts like sparkplugs.
Ok Thank you I will run the Jumper test this week end. So all I have to do is unplug the return line and put it in a catch can, and trigger the fuel pump using the Plug K and put a paper clip in each terminal end ?
Also the spark plugs are fine I can take a photo of the older ones I still have
Also, I just wrote to the shop that installed the fuel pump and they said.
"Hi Pierre The pump brand is “Denso, Bill"
Denso... Like Denso Toyota or is there another Denso companie that does makes them ? I believe so. The pump cost me $329.85 (CAD)
Correct. Find your fuel pressure regulator, identify the fuel outlet line (big one) runs to a hard-line on the firewall. Release the clamp.and hose at the hard-line and put it into a suitable container, you're expecting about 500cc/minute. Start a timer and the pump and run it until you can guage the fuel returned.
This proves the fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump and regulator are most likely OK. There is of course the outlier case where the pump doesn't have enough pressure and volume to sustain a running engine but it also requires the pressure regulator to have failed open also.
Correct. Find your fuel pressure regulator, identify the fuel outlet line (big one) runs to a hard-line on the firewall. Release the clamp.and hose at the hard-line and put it into a suitable container, you're expecting about 500cc/minute. Start a timer and the pump and run it until you can guage the fuel returned.
This proves the fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump and regulator are most likely OK. There is of course the outlier case where the pump doesn't have enough pressure and volume to sustain a running engine but it also requires the pressure regulator to have failed open also.
Ok so im gonna working on the truck this week end and I am purchasing the gauge Monday so can I test anything without it ?
Ok so im gonna working on the truck this week end and I am purchasing the gauge Monday so can I test anything without it ?
Don't need anything but the paper clip, a one liter bottle, and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers to.get the spring clamp off for this. It's just a bench mark. Is it not free flowing fuel?( > 500cc/minute such that it fills a medium water bottle in 30 seconds.) Is it flowing enough? (1/4 of the bottle in 15 seconds.)
comes with the 12mm banjo-to-Schraeder fitting to connect it to your fuel rail. There are other ways to do it (including permanent mountings); this is just the one I have.
Don't need anything but the paper clip, a one liter bottle, and maybe a pair of needle nose pliers to.get the spring clamp off for this. It's just a bench mark. Is it not free flowing fuel?( > 500cc/minute such that it fills a medium water bottle in 30 seconds.) Is it flowing enough? (1/4 of the bottle in 15 seconds.)
Ok so I ran the test and at first I unplugged it from the FPR dunno why and gasoline squirted right out of it.
Plugged return line back on FPR and unplugged return line from firewall gas line and filled a quarter of a 2L in 0:35 seconds.
That's a lot of volume, try the pressure test (I expect it's going to be low).
put the return line back on and try clamping the hose to restrict the flow, this will strain the pump some but you might be able to start the engine. If the engine starts, runs and revs up like this your pump is probably OK and it's just the regulator. If it doesn't run your fuel system is inadequate, bad regulator plus maybe bad pump or blocked fuel lines.
That's a lot of volume, try the pressure test (I expect it's going to be low).
put the return line back on and try clamping the hose to restrict the flow, this will strain the pump some but you might be able to start the engine. If the engine starts, runs and revs up like this your pump is probably OK and it's just the regulator. If it doesn't run your fuel system is inadequate, bad regulator plus maybe bad pump or blocked fuel lines.
Thank you for all your replies. I will go ahead and order the gauge tomorrow for the pressure test. I will also perform the flow restriction test tomorrow and post my results here, once again.
That's a lot of volume, try the pressure test (I expect it's going to be low).
put the return line back on and try clamping the hose to restrict the flow, this will strain the pump some but you might be able to start the engine. If the engine starts, runs and revs up like this your pump is probably OK and it's just the regulator. If it doesn't run your fuel system is inadequate, bad regulator plus maybe bad pump or blocked fuel lines.
Sorry about the double post. Here is the video of the result of the return line restricted. (Had the keys in the ignition for 30 seconds prior videotaping so pressure would build up and get an accurate test )
Don't forget that you have to attach the gauge to your rig. The Actron CP7838 https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7838...df_B0009XQUKC/ comes with the 12mm banjo-to-Schraeder fitting to connect it to your fuel rail. There are other ways to do it (including permanent mountings); this is just the one I have.
Says it ain't available anymore. EDIT: Nevermind it's on eBay, thanks to you for the hint.
Co_94_PU Thank you very kindly. Im thinking about buying a brand new FPR from LCE, I wonder how good they are. I usually like to go OEM and if that route isn't available I usually go with 22RE Performance.
Also quick question for you, do you still own your 22RE-T ?
Last edited by pimacdaddy; 10-07-2020 at 06:05 PM.
09-29-2020, 11:52 AM
