phorensic

Got some work done today on the project.

Here are some photos of less than 1/4 of the parts I have purchased so far:



Here is the turbine exhaust flange. Just tacked together. It will be surfaced on a nice grinder (like 24" wheel bench style) before being bolted together with gasket, so the nicks and rust are moot.



Here is the turbine inlet flange:


It has been interesting finding room to mount this beast. Might be a while for the next set of photos, so don't get too excited.

91_4x4runner

Good luck. Sounds interesting...

nunsa

Your going to put a Turbo on a 3.0? I hope the rest of the engine is built up and not factory! If not that turbo will blow all those seals out and perhaps the engine! I'm not here to burst your bubble but I seen it happen to many times with the 3.slo! People try to get some more HP out of the 3.slo and they add a turbo and next thing ya know all the seals and/or the engine goes Tits up!

Good Luck!

justanother4x4

i really dont understand why everyone thinks the 3.0 is junk and if u look at it wrong your truck will flip over and catch on fire. hahaha, please explain why this motor will not hold boost well? I imagine with enough fuel, good head gaskets and head bolts 280+ is possible on these motors as long as its intercooled. Sounds like a fun project, dont let the typical internet mechanics talk their usual rumors. When i was into VWs, there was a always a rumor that if u stuck a vr6 into a mk2 gti it would flip over easily, which was totally retarted but all it took was one guy voicing his opinion to give this swap a bad rep but eventually it caught on and it was the engine swap to do. I think the 3.0 got a bad rep on the net, i beat the hell outta mine daily and it still ran great at 230,xxx miles on factory head gaskets.


oh yeah, the exhaust manifold.... what are you going to use? i thought about using the factory exhaust manifolds and modifying them because u already have the pasenger exhaust crossed over to the drivers manifold similar to how my old 87 300zx turbo manifolds were run. Not sure if your familiar with this site http://www.homemadeturbo.com
but check it out, its mostly honda and 5.0 mustang but its all custom cheap turbo setups and is full of some awsome info.

dmatter

If People think the 3.0 is Slow. What, do they Think about the 22re????? Really Really Slow???????............My 3.0 has 286,000 Miles on it and it Will Go 100 MPH No Problem! As for my 22re God Forbid the Freeway has a Hill to it. I love Both Engines Neither of them are Going to win Drag Races with Jeeps ETC. But, I buy them for Reliabilty.

Weasy2k

the headgaskets are the only problems that is all...the rest is built like every other vz series block...STRONG

Do it man!

The cams helped out my dads 4runner here the power doesnt die off so quickly anymore.

phorensic

This is going to be a remote turbo install. The MOCAL pump you see in those photos is a pump specifically designed to pump oil from the outlet of the turbo oil flange back to the motor. Our original location for the turbo was about 1.5ft from where the exhaust merges into one, kinda right by the transmission. Well, after we created 6" of flanges and pipes on each side of the turbo to plumb it we realized that we had to move it all the way back to behind the cab.

More photos will be taken as soon as we start the install.

Epic Ed

Well, the 3VZE has been out there running in vehicles for nearly 20 years now, and no one as of yet has made a successful, significant, marketable-to-the-mass (read "affordable") contraption that adds horse power worth talking about.

It is the least reliable of any of the Toyota engines. You'll still find about 50% of the 3VZEs out there running into the high 200's, but it's a Toyota -- we expect good things and long life form these engines. The other 1/2 of 3VZE owners have horror stories to tell. I'm on my 3rd one! Wish I would have done a swap from the git-go.

I hope the project is successful. I'm just not sure what will set your rendition apart from the other projects that have failed for one reason or another.

Ed

Ganoid

I was planning on a remote turbo as well after I get the WB O2 and Piggyback stuff figured out on my NA motor. Are you planning on boost early on for good torque increases in the lower RPM range sacraficing a little bit up top or are you going for more of a top end rush with big numbers? I would be very intrested in a parts list along with prices and sources. I was planning on mounting mine way back under the bed and snorkling the air filter up into the bed to keep it out of the mud/water. After searching around under my truck for a bit Im not completly sure how to route the charge line back into the engine compartment with out it hitting anything. I guess a suspension lift would make room or going to a solid axle? I think the 3.0 is a plenty strong motor for a little forced induction as long as you dont get too carried away.

phorensic

The CT26 pictured is from the MR2. The MR2 version has a smaller, twin-scroll turbine section designed for less lag on a 2.0L 4 cylinder, versus the larger single entry turbing section on the 7mgte version of the ct26. Somebody was predicting it to spool at 1800RPM on one of the forums. We will see once I get it dynoed again. So this will be a response type setup, I don't have the budjet to buy a new T3/T4 turbo with the right A/R's and trims.

Trust me, you don't want to see the length of the parts list or the prices! And I don't want to know it either! Let's put a conservative estimate at $2,000+ for parts and labor.

Exactly how we are going to do it to keep dust/water out of the air filter.

Yeah, it's going to be tight. I bought 2" aluminum tubing instead of 2.5" so that we can try and fit it. Chopping clearance out of the cab and welding some sheet metal back in is not out of the question on this install. It is a true off-road truck, so hacking things up to make things fit is what we will probably end up doing.

absolutezero

I agree.... Using forced induction on a 3VZFE engine is just begging for trouble. The bottom-end may be fine, but the top end won't last...unless you jbweld the head to the block Or maybe I"m just biased from seeing countless 3VZs succomb to the HG problem....under normal aspiration no less!!
I am curious to see how the computer will handle positive pressure on the MAP sensor. Also, are you going to piggy back a A/F computer to adjust the map?

rockota

What's up with all of the haters? Someone, and not the first, mind you, does something to work WITH the 3.0 instead of complaining about it and all of the responses are "it'll never work," "you're wasting your money," "the 3.0 is a POS," blah blah blah blah.

Clifton on PBB has been running a 10-12PSI'd turbo 3.0 for a few years now w/o a problem, and he's not the only one.

The HG issues are not compression related folks...

Cebby

I agree with Rockota.

The HG issues are caused by the stock exhaust setup. Get headers or something else that eliminates the crossover pipe and you are in good shape for some longevity.

Justin311

If you want to improve the CT26 an incredible amount for a relatively small chunk of change, I work with a company who will modify it for you. The problem with the CT26 is not the compressor side but the turbine side. The exhaust housing is very restrictive and introduces a huge bottleneck to the exhaust side. ATS' solution was to machine the turbine HOUSING (most people modify the wheel to a different trim or clip it - not a huge increase) and combined with a different compressor wheel (T04E? can't remember trim- perhaps 50) they have been able to increase the power output 20% partially by allowing the turbine housign to flow all the way to redline. Anyways if you want to read more about it check out their website:

www.ATSracing.net

Look for the CT27 modification, I think it runs around $800 with a good core.

As far as spool I bet it will spool as soon as 1800 rpm..whcih should be more like a supercharger than a turbo On the 2L displacement 3S motor it spools around 2800 rpm, but runs out of breath around 5500 rpm (with a redline of 7250). With simply increasing the displacement of our motors 10% (2.2L) we can pick up a few hundred RPM spool...so going all the way to a 3.0 should have you spooling by early 2000's if not 1800!!

If you want anymore info feel free to PM me

BTW if anybody else wants CT26's to play with we usually dump them pretty early in the game..picking a good one up for under $350 isn't out of the question....we usually go to something a little mroe fun

Justin311

If you think a crossover pipe causes too much backpressure I will hate to see what a turbine housing does....

Cebby

Not a backpressure problem, it's a heat problem.

Justin311

Can you explain how adding backpressure does not directly add heat? We coat our exhaust manifolds with 2000* coatings to try to combat heat, and we have A2W intercoolers with front mounted cores, water and meth injection, etc. If you think adding a turbo, even at the end of your tailpipe, will not increase heat, you have not thought things through.

I'm not trying to be a naysayer I'm all for him doing this project (hence the information I gave him in the post above), I'm just trying to make sure his project heads the way he intends, and not to the junkyard

Weasy2k

Justin its WHERE the heat is....

I have to agree wiht Rockota...iuf you dont know the truck/engine setup then the comments that some people here made are pritty much useless.
We all know that the HG hates heat and so does the #6 valve and yes we know that backpressure is a sideeffect of a turbo and that it produces intense heat. COol we got that now...

Ok so now think about putting that HOT ass pipe RIGHT BESIDE the heads..which are alluminum and love to conduct heat. Thats the point there. If you got rid of that cross over pipe the problems with heated exhaust killing the heads is pritty much gone and so is the issue with the headgasket blowing. Like i said earlier the rest of the block is beefy, the engine just needs air.

Keep us up to date with your project phorensic

Cebby

I don't doubt that adding backpressure adds more heat. I've seen what a clogged cat can do... I can see how my post may have read that way though. Sorry.

The only point I was trying to make is in the case of the 3VZE in 89-95 trucks and 4Runners, it's the location of the (ill conceived heat spewing) crossover pipe and the heat buildup associated with dumping the exhaust from one bank into the other at the driverside rear of the engine that contributes to headgasket failures on "stockish" 3VZE engines. Mine is one of these statistics - and I had a little less backpressure than stock with an aftermarket cat-back.

It would be pretty cool if something as simple as coating the crossover pipe would have a drastic reduction in heat-related HG issues...


EDIT: Looks like I spent too much time editing my post. Thanks Weasy - beat me to it!

Justin311

LOL...yeah, each engine is so *drastically different* that common physics do not apply.

Since you're apparently a tuner (sea2sky tuning?) I assume you have easy access to pyrometers. If anybody really wants to solve this HG issue why don't you tap three of your runners and the crossover pipe and log some temps for us. Then swap for a header and we'll see the temp differences.

If heat is such an enemy why is nobody coating and wrapping the stock mani?!?!

BTW are you the same Weasy on the MR2 boards?!?!