xxxtreme22r

here is my opinion on the body lifts as of right now, if your doing anything other than a 1" body lift just to clear tires, even with a quality body lift, you gain nothing but tire clearance. No extra travel in the suspension and you raised the center of gravity for no other reason that benefits you other than fitting the tires.

Using Rob as an example (hope he don't mind). 2" body lift = cool.....kinda. Rob didn't add the 2" body lift to clear his tires. He added it to clear his 2" drivetrain (engine/t-case) lift. Which would have otherwise not cleared the body probably not even with the 1" body lift. Yes he raised his center of gravity, big deal, it's wasn't for nothing. Side effect, he can now fit larger tires as well, most likely negating the fact he raised his center of gravity because of the extra weight of the tires.

3" body lifts should be used if you have exhausted all other options for suspension lift. And have to clear say 40" tires. In which case if your running 40" tires, it's most likely not a DD and you don't give a rat's behind if you flop it. Yes the center of gravity goes up less then say a 3" spring lift, but....... the extra suspension travel from the 3" springs is gonna keep your center of gravity lower than the 3" body lift would while off-roading. Mall crawling yes, off-road no.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yes, he has them. Not sure if he is the only place, but I personally wouldn't use any other. (just my opinion ) Here is a link for when you get to a computer.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...html#ATbracket

yotarob2005

Fair oppinion, and no I do not mind being the example at all. I know that my case is a little different that everyone elses. The combination of the BL and DT lift with low profile crossmember gained me a little better than 3-1/2" of additional clerance at the lowest point and over 2" at the fuel tank. Does my 2" suspension + 2" body have a higher center of gravity that a 4" bracket lift? I don't THINK so.

xxxtreme22r

I would say no rob, because the 4" bracket lift would lift the entire frame. Yes the bracket lift would gain a little more (2" in your case) overall frame clearance but only 1/2" crossmember clearence. And I would say the front diff is lower as well with the 4" bracket lift. By about 2". 1" if your using a diff drop kit on yours. But even then that's only the back end of the diff not the front crossmember area. I like your option over the bracket lift. Probably overall cheaper as well. Just more work in which many kids are not willing to do, they would rather pay extra to be able to do less in a shorter amount of time.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

First, let me say that BigSwole may have trouble making these tires work right in the end no matter what. He may have to resort to hammer and sawzall as Scuba suggested or ditch the 35's and go to 33's. On the other hand some combo of body lift, hammer love, t bar adjustment, BJ spacers, and sawzall might make this work.

To me the whole point of a lift is to fit bigger tires as that is the only thing that really supplies any additional clearance at the axle/diff. On IFS, nothing really improves travel other than a long travel kit which I don't think is what anybody is really talking about here. BJ spacers can improve travel but it is only down travel and I have come to believe that it is not really useful travel. That is a whole seperate argument though, that I don't want to crap up BigSwoles thread with. There are plenty of other threads where that point is argued/debated. Bracket lifts do nothing to improve travel either. If you want bigtime flex/travel you go to SFA. If you want to stay IFS, you nibble around the edges to get 33's or 35's on the truck, you fix obvious weak links, and you bolster areas that you have compomised with your mods. To me the optimum IFS would be the 2 inch BL and drivetrain lift like Rob did which would also likely allow 33x10.50s without the need for pinch weld pounding, BJ spacers or t bar adjustment. Then front and rear lockers with appropriate gearing to tire size, armor up the wazoo and a Total Chaos idler arm. 4.7 T case gearing or dual cases depending on budget and call it done.

But back to the point of BigSwoles situation, with a 3 inch BL he might be able to fit the 35's with a little pounding but no cutting. Or with BJ spacers and no pounding or cutting. Or a little pounding and a slight t bar adjustment and no spacers or cutting. He'll have to play with it but at least he will have some options. Hell, it's worth a try. Have fun with it BigSwole.

BigSwole

Think I may have found a way. My tbars aren't cranked and I might just do that and see where I'm at

rattlewagon

I run 35s with no lift. Cut and hammer.

wii_tarded

Re-Re, you might want to post some pics of exactly where you cut, and what got hammered.

rattlewagon

Cut 3 inches off the Fenders, hammered the firewall till it I got to the body mount. I would move your 'puter before you hammer to hard on the passenger side, then put it back after. Shouldant have an issue, but just in case. Nothing really picture worthy.

BigSwole

hey re re were you able to balance your 35's with weights or did you have to use the bead in the tire trick?

BigSwole

And I decided against hammering the fenders. Just going to go with a body lift. 3" most likely.

sirhk100

LOL, all of you anti 3" body lift guys can suck it!!! (sarcasim!!! Don't get butt hurt!!!) Why's that???

Well, this picture is taken on the hoist in the R&D department at Performance Accessories. LOL, this is an '89 yota, ignore the tacoma clip... Notice the BIG gap between the core support and frame right in front of the AC condenser? My previous employer was Performance Accessories and I was one of the designers there. Now on my truck, I was interested in travel and clearance. Travel comes from the suspension, not lift brackets. Clearance has different forms... Clearance under the truck comes from bigger tires. But I also needed clearance for more travel. Combo of fiberglass and body lift and hammer provides that. I want the lowest COG as possible though so I actually want the truck to sit fairly low while doing everything else mentioned above... Hence the combo you see here keeps the main mass of the truck being the frame and driveline low to the ground with only the tires providing the lift of it while the body lift allows me the clearance for the suspension travel at the cab.




Now as far as body mount cracks go... Sure, they happen. Then again, if you're out really beating on your truck you should probably reinforce some other areas as well to help with this. My solution to body mount cracks, remove them from the equation!!! My cab is sitting at 3" of body lift but has no body mounts... The cab is actually supported by the cage work now.

See the 4x4 between the body and frame? See the freshly ground frame rail where the body mount brackets used to extend off from?



Here's what's there now and that tube goes right thru the hole where the body mount was. No the 4X4 isn't perminent... It's just there cause it happened to be a perfect spacer to support the cab with no mounts. The cab is actually plated to the cage work now.



My roof sits the same height as a stock 4WD yota yet sits on 33" tires and has clearance for 35's if i wanted to run them. (I don't cause 35's will break my spindles) People that just come off and say body lifts suck make me laugh. Sure, they aren't for everyone but they have a purpose. Whether you're going for something a little more extreme like me or just want to fit some bigger tires to cruise around town on they work fine. Personally if I ever own a newer truck and not just an old beater yota there's no way I would ever do a suspension lift!!! I've got experience as a designer at RCD suspensions, fabtech and Trailmaster and all of those "style" kits are hack jobs and there's no way I'd take a truck of value and throw that crap under it. You're ruining the ride quality and performance in exchange for the same looks that can be achieved other ways without sacrificing any of that. Do you really think these small aftermarket companies are remotely engineering their suspensions to perform like factories??? (small aftermarket companies meaning in comparison to Ford, chevy, toyota, etc...)

Whatever, rant over... Just know that all the kits have a purpose and a target market. Just cause it may not fit your needs doesn't mean it sucks. I'll put my body lifted truck up against anyone elses on here in the terrain of my choice! LOL

wii_tarded

well, umm.....(cough)....

Nice truck! and a very good point.

xxxtreme22r

which is why my current thought of the body lifts is what it is. sirhk100 is a perfect example of using all other options for suspension lift.
Nice 2wd Prerunner BTW.

BigSwole

How many ppl have actually seen a body mount break BECAUSE of a body lift.

I'm talking first hand seen it happen. Was it properly installed?

Lastly, pix or it didn't happen

BigSwole

Google yielded 0 results for me.

Alberta4x

All of the problems that I've heard of coming from body lifts have been of people using wood blocks or hockey pucks as 1" spacers, with the spacers cracking in half. In my opinion if you use quality spacers then you are fine. I've never heard of the actual body mount breaking before because of added stress from a body lift. For the record, I love my 1" body lift good luck on making those 35's fit nice!

rattlewagon

I got them used on rims with weights already on there. So I haven't done anything with balancing them. They don't see many road miles, so wasn't ever a concern.

tlrskunk

My 35's are balance with weights... and so was my last set of 35's. no shake at 80 indicated(85 by GPS).

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

I've been running with 2" BL for over 10 yrs now without problems. I've also ran 35" IFS with 2" BL and cranked Sway-a-way 24mm t-bar. I ran with that setup only on pavement though. As long as you don't disconnect your front sway bar, you shouldn't be rubbing except at full turn.