2nd Gen 3.0 V6 upgrades
11-25-2005, 10:28 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by 95-Superlift4runner
I dont know what the aligator clips are doing on my battery
Hope my engine doesnt blow up. What would be the reasoning for them, ARB lockers maybe?
Hope my engine doesnt blow up. What would be the reasoning for them, ARB lockers maybe?
11-25-2005, 11:51 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by 95-Superlift4runner
I dont know what the aligator clips are doing on my battery
Hope my engine doesnt blow up. What would be the reasoning for them, ARB lockers maybe?
Hope my engine doesnt blow up. What would be the reasoning for them, ARB lockers maybe?
11-26-2005, 09:18 AM
#28
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Location: Minnesota
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As a person who has had two highly modified 3.0's, I think there is some information that needs clarification here.
My 94 had DOA ported heads, free flow exhaust, intake, ignition.
My 88 has Downey headers, free flow exhaust, intake, throttle body.
I *HATE* the ISR mod; the idea of f'n with the computer signals makes zero sense to me, especially w/ the 3.0.
Downey and Northwest offroad make headers. The NWOR headers are a better unit - tri-Y, Stainless, gasketless. That said, I'd never buy from that company - EVER. If you decide to go with Downy, I'd recommend having ball-type flanges welded on the end of the headers rather than the slip flanges that Downey uses. Then run a good 2.25 - 2.5" free flowing (not duals) exhause system
Stay away from K&N Filters - they suck and are horrible for your engine. Check out http://www.gadgetonline.com/AirInduction.htm for reasons why.
head porting is an option, but an expensive one. I paid $1500 for DOA porting and it did make a difference, but not $1500 worth.
Oversize throttle body is an option, but only gives a few HP.
Ignition isn't bad, but should be used with other mods; I ran Jacobs on my 94 and liked it.
Most of the mods will increase power in the upper RPM ranges - 3500+.
My advice: Find out what gears you are running. If you are running 33's, I'd consider a minimum of 4.88's. I'd even go 5.29's as the 3.0 is much happier in the upper RPM range. If you already have gears and want to consider an engine swap, I would *ONLY* do a 3.4. While a V8 is nice, you're going to run into a lot of $$, tranny issues (or expensive adapters), custom parts, radiator fitment issues, etc. You will spend a TON of money (my 4.3 swap was over $4K - it was done right). The 3.4 out of a manual Taco has 190 HP, and with the headers you'll use (likely downey), you should see ~200HP. That's 33% more than your 3.0. And you can likely sell your 3.0 for more than you'll pay for a 3.4, assuming you find a good deal on a 3.4. If that's not enough power, you can source a used S/C and throw URDUSA.COM fuel mods at it for another 110HP (that's about $2500 worth of parts).
A friend of mine has ~2K into his Supercharged 3.4 swap. He has a Gen1 charger w/ no fuel mods (mistake). He paid $500 for the engine and tranny, did the wiring himself.
In summary:
Gears first.
Complete Exhaust second.
Throttle body
Ignition
Intake
Headporting (make sure you match the headers you use.)
From there, you can have Ted @ engblder.com throw some larger valves in if you want.
You can also extrude hone/port the intake manifold, but that's not the easiest/cheapest thing to do.
Good luck.
BTW - the limiting straps are part of the Superlift kit... They are necessary to prevent the spring from popping out and overextending the shocks.
My 94 had DOA ported heads, free flow exhaust, intake, ignition.
My 88 has Downey headers, free flow exhaust, intake, throttle body.
I *HATE* the ISR mod; the idea of f'n with the computer signals makes zero sense to me, especially w/ the 3.0.
Downey and Northwest offroad make headers. The NWOR headers are a better unit - tri-Y, Stainless, gasketless. That said, I'd never buy from that company - EVER. If you decide to go with Downy, I'd recommend having ball-type flanges welded on the end of the headers rather than the slip flanges that Downey uses. Then run a good 2.25 - 2.5" free flowing (not duals) exhause system
Stay away from K&N Filters - they suck and are horrible for your engine. Check out http://www.gadgetonline.com/AirInduction.htm for reasons why.
head porting is an option, but an expensive one. I paid $1500 for DOA porting and it did make a difference, but not $1500 worth.
Oversize throttle body is an option, but only gives a few HP.
Ignition isn't bad, but should be used with other mods; I ran Jacobs on my 94 and liked it.
Most of the mods will increase power in the upper RPM ranges - 3500+.
My advice: Find out what gears you are running. If you are running 33's, I'd consider a minimum of 4.88's. I'd even go 5.29's as the 3.0 is much happier in the upper RPM range. If you already have gears and want to consider an engine swap, I would *ONLY* do a 3.4. While a V8 is nice, you're going to run into a lot of $$, tranny issues (or expensive adapters), custom parts, radiator fitment issues, etc. You will spend a TON of money (my 4.3 swap was over $4K - it was done right). The 3.4 out of a manual Taco has 190 HP, and with the headers you'll use (likely downey), you should see ~200HP. That's 33% more than your 3.0. And you can likely sell your 3.0 for more than you'll pay for a 3.4, assuming you find a good deal on a 3.4. If that's not enough power, you can source a used S/C and throw URDUSA.COM fuel mods at it for another 110HP (that's about $2500 worth of parts).
A friend of mine has ~2K into his Supercharged 3.4 swap. He has a Gen1 charger w/ no fuel mods (mistake). He paid $500 for the engine and tranny, did the wiring himself.
In summary:
Gears first.
Complete Exhaust second.
Throttle body
Ignition
Intake
Headporting (make sure you match the headers you use.)
From there, you can have Ted @ engblder.com throw some larger valves in if you want.
You can also extrude hone/port the intake manifold, but that's not the easiest/cheapest thing to do.
Good luck.
BTW - the limiting straps are part of the Superlift kit... They are necessary to prevent the spring from popping out and overextending the shocks.
03-09-2007, 05:39 AM
#30
Registered User
jacobs no longer makes the ignition "pro street" or whatever it is for our truck, now its the "ice" system iirc...lol
holy old post bat man!
Btw - you can also swap cams for a great difference!
holy old post bat man!
Btw - you can also swap cams for a great difference!
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