levi_plummer

yeah.. I passed a parked car on the interstate the other day. That's about all the passing this thing does. It didn't have enough power to get out of third gear when we set it at 5 degrees advanced. Do you think maybe because my timing is advanced soo far that would make it not turn 5k?? (the reason that I keep refering to 5k rpm is because this is the only thing I can describe that you all can work with to help me figure out my problem. I am about to head to mt.sterling to get a fuel pressure tester and try that. I will check this on my iPhone frequently. I appreciate your all's help

levi_plummer

Hey Guys, I did the compression test and hear are my results..
Cylinder #1: 155
Cylinder #2: 165
Cylinder #3: 165
Cylinder #4: 160


For cylinder one i didn't open the throttle up all the way like the directions said (I didn't read the instructions thorough enough). i think that may be why it was a little lower. i am going to test my fuel pressure as soon as i get done with dinner.

bicklebok

You the man!! Keep us posted.

streetlancer

iTrader: (1)

Are you kidding me!!?? 90MPH?? Last time i checked my toyota is not a race car.
Im thinking there are more problems than just timing. I run 32'' tires, stock 4.10 gearing, and a 22r, which is a little weaker than the 22re, and i hit 70MPH in 5th at 3,000rpm. I rarely go over 3,000.

levi_plummer

Can anyone tell me exactly what my fuel pressure should be? i seen two different post one sais 27-31psi and another person said that it required 32-38 psi another person also stated they use different fuel pumps than factory and are using 80+psi and doing just fine?

ttrmike

NO way your going 90mph in a stock toyota. Fastest ive gone in my rebuilt 22R is 80, and that was down hill in 5th with 28's (it gets scary after that).

Isnt the redline on a 22Re like 5575? your peak power is going to be found at way less.

After removing all the emmisions parts isnt that going to mess with the computer? Have you checked if its thrown any codes yet?

What about the factory injectors? After 300,000 miles they're probably clogged and producing bad spray patterns.

Other things to check:
- Engine fuse, and all other fuses for that matter
- Plug wires, check for crossfiring (even if they're new they can still be bad)
- Valve clearance (wrong specs can move your power band around)
- Distributor cap, carbon tracing
- Air filter
- Clutch slipping
- Coil and ignitor
- Dragging brakes
- Bad gas, try a gas drier like Seafoam (good to add once in a while anyways)
- Vacuum leaks
- O2 sensor

Do you have a Haynes or Chilton manual? They have great troubleshooting sections.

I hope you get this figured out. I spent over a year getting my 22R troubleshooted (read 15/16 with no formal training)

levi_plummer

The egr valve through a code about 1,200 miles after rebuild for something to do with activity but i cleared it and never had trouble since. The injectors i haven't messed with. but i am deffinatly contemplating them. could a bad injector cause a burnt valve (I thought burnt valves were caused from carbon hotspots but maybe other reasons)? i will have to check the cap. i will probably adjust my valves again soon just for comfort. New airfilter, New clutch, i will have to check the brake's for dragging. it has b12 chemtol injector cleaner in it now. it has a brand new denso oxygen sensor and i am preaty positive of no vacuum leaks.

levi_plummer

So from what everyone tells me that its timing. but do you guys think that this could be ignition timing or cam timing? thanks

sam333

The problem is, people have to have some baseline to go by and so far no one really knows what you have done to your engine because you dont really know, and cant tell us( not trying to be smart ass). You are the eyes and ears.The first thing is, the parts in the engine have to be mechanicly sound( you said you didnt meaure anything), then assembled right( you are not sure). All your seconary systems( electrical,fuel, ignition, emmisions, cooling , exhaust) have to be the right ones for the truck and working. You removed your EGR( that alone will cause you to have very high combustion temps .)Your head was milled .120( way out of spec). At 300000 miles even a Toyota engine is at the end of its life( unless its been gone through completly).

Bojangles

X2.
But not only that, (and ive said this before) Its a 22RE, there's not much to be expected out of this motor.
It's a work horse of an engine, but not a dragster.

If the wind is against me, i cant run 5th.
If the wind is in my favor, i can run 5th at about 70-75.
But my tires are 4 inches all together bigger than yours...
I will admit, you should have a little bit more speed and power, but i put 30X950 all terrains on my truck the other day and i ran it up to 80 or so, it was SLOWLY climbing, but i thought i saw a cop in the distance and let off

Ive hit 100 in mine once...And that was 4th gear, down a steep bridge, with the wind behind me.
And my motor has 12,000 miles on it brand new.
Were not trying to dog you, were here to help you understand things that you dont.
I will admit there are some things that i have not learned yet,
Im DEF not the smartest mechanic out there, but one thing i have learned is that these 22R's and 22RE's are not built for speed.

With that being said, figure out whats going on with your timing, Regear it...and go from there.

levi_plummer

Okay guys. My fuel pressure was in spec compared to what I found on hear. I used an autozone fuel pressure tester. Also my compression test came out 1: 150lbs 2: 165lbs 3: 165lbs 4: 160lbs... I have the isr mod, header, 2 1/4 pipe to a thrush welded muffler, no catalynic convertor, an engnbuldr 268 degree torqr cam, complete engnbuldr standard size rebuild kit. (that consisted of pistons, rings, cam, all engine bearings, timing set, new timing cover, oil pump, water pump.) I put a new clutch in it at the same time. New distributor cap, rotor button, plugs, wires, oil pressure sending unit, fuel filter. It has about 1,600 miles on the rebuild. I bought it not running and wanted to do the full rebuild. It has one rod bearing turned and knocking, two burnt valves and the timing had slid a couple teeth off.. It starts quick with no smoke. My problem is a lack of power and mileage. It doesn't have close to the get up and go of my friends dads 2x4 22re 5spd with way more than 300,000 miles and he gets mad when his truck gets 30mpg on the same drive as mine. I can't use fith gear because the engine doesn't have the power to hold a solid speed in fith and it will only go 73mph down a long hill then the speed drops back. It also won't go over 5,100 rpm in first and 5,500 rpm free reving. (I have to wind it out to get up to speed was expecting more than 15mpg out of this. If i am gonna have to deal with this Kind of mileage I will go back to a full size.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If you are driving this with your foot to the floor of course the gas mileage will be poor.

I wish I was close enough to take this for a ride .

But really with a little over a 100 horse power plus what the cam gives you what do you expect ???

Are you maybe used to a small block chevy engine that would rev to at least 10,000rpm and put out 300 or 400 horsepower .

I find it strange that it runs at all I mean a High mileage block not bored at all even to true up the cylinders .

Crank was so good it didn`t need to turned down at all.

Just goes to show these engines last forever

levi_plummer

In actualy used to my old 24 valve dodge. It would only turn 2,800 rpm. But 425hp and over 850lbs of torque. But i know this Toyota doesn't run like the dodge. I don't expect it to come close. But it doesn't compare to my friends dads truck with more miles on it

OrRunner

iTrader: (1)

Have you check the position of the distributor? could be off a tooth there and I didnt read anything about checking that....