22RE Timing Chain no start
07-23-2008, 12:14 PM
#61
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and for the 'family' aspect... you don't have kids yet and regardless of getting a house or not you need to get the truck fixed (how else are you going to move your stuff into a house? 
)
and don't be embarrassed about picking up your wrenches. at worst, you only helped something, something that was going to happen anyways, happen sooner (had you not mucked with the chain, it would've either chewed through the chain cover or snapped, and either would've caused you as much if not more damage than what you're facing now)... and better now than when you have kid(s) and are fumbling with house payments. And, I'm guessing you're either married or seriously committed, so she has her own vehicle as well, no? So why can't the rugrat(s) ride in hers?
)and don't be embarrassed about picking up your wrenches. at worst, you only helped something, something that was going to happen anyways, happen sooner (had you not mucked with the chain, it would've either chewed through the chain cover or snapped, and either would've caused you as much if not more damage than what you're facing now)... and better now than when you have kid(s) and are fumbling with house payments. And, I'm guessing you're either married or seriously committed, so she has her own vehicle as well, no? So why can't the rugrat(s) ride in hers?
07-23-2008, 12:18 PM
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good point...married and she has a reliable (meaning I probably shouldn't touch it!) corolla that pulls down 38-44 mpg on the road. Even got 40 mpg with a Thule box on top!!
07-23-2008, 12:19 PM
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So, essentially, I would need to strip the motor down & remove the old head, put a new gasket on, and ted's replacement head, and put it all back together and it would be done? simple as that huh? :-)
Yeah...given the shape of the cam...I think it would be good to replace that too!!
I recall reading about replacing the head bolts with ARP ones...necessary or no?
I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask how much the mechanic would charge to just install the head...but I would need to get it towed there and back ($100) round trip.
Yeah...given the shape of the cam...I think it would be good to replace that too!!
I recall reading about replacing the head bolts with ARP ones...necessary or no?
I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask how much the mechanic would charge to just install the head...but I would need to get it towed there and back ($100) round trip.
depending on what the mech would charge to do the job, even if it's 800 dollars, you're getting the head for 600, so 1400 spent on what the mech wanted 1800+ for is a no brainer to me... and you'd only have to have it towed 1 way- to the mech... you'll drive it out of there under it's own power.
new head bolts won't hurt anything... using ARP studs makes a head job easier in the future (and makes some sense from a technical standpoint as well) but may not be necessary if your existing head bolts are re-usable and the mechanic is competent.
07-23-2008, 06:37 PM
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Thanks D.C. I thought I had his website bookmarked. Seems down at the moment. Plus, not so sure he would be into my rig since it isn't hardcore by any means...
07-24-2008, 07:32 PM
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okay...well I think I am going to pull the trigger and try to fix it myself. This is what I am thinking for parts...comments greatly appreciated.
Engnbldr:
-Street RV head w. 268C cam $585.00
-Full gasket set $ 55.00
-Head bolts $ 26.00
Summit:
-ARP High Performance Head Stud Kit (ARP-203-4201) $ 130.00
-Thorley Tri-Y Header (DTE-542Y-SO) $ 360.00
-Flowmaster maybe?
Couple of questions...
1) The ARP head studs are for 22R motors would they work with 22RE?
2) ARP heads or just new head bolts?
3) Good cam choice? I want some power but would like to keep decent mileage as well.
4) Other muffler options? (may not replace at this point but thinking about it)
5) Anything else I should do at the same time? I was thinking about the injectors being serviced...
6) Pull the motor or keep it in? (How difficult is it to pull? Wiring woes?) I was thinking I could probably get better seals (certainly with the oil pan...)
What else am I missing?
Since I don't have much time (or knowledge) I was thinking that this set-up from Ted might be the best route for me. It looks easy enough (haha) to pull the head.
Thoughts?
Engnbldr:
-Street RV head w. 268C cam $585.00
-Full gasket set $ 55.00
-Head bolts $ 26.00
Summit:
-ARP High Performance Head Stud Kit (ARP-203-4201) $ 130.00
-Thorley Tri-Y Header (DTE-542Y-SO) $ 360.00
-Flowmaster maybe?
Couple of questions...
1) The ARP head studs are for 22R motors would they work with 22RE?
2) ARP heads or just new head bolts?
3) Good cam choice? I want some power but would like to keep decent mileage as well.
4) Other muffler options? (may not replace at this point but thinking about it)
5) Anything else I should do at the same time? I was thinking about the injectors being serviced...
6) Pull the motor or keep it in? (How difficult is it to pull? Wiring woes?) I was thinking I could probably get better seals (certainly with the oil pan...)
What else am I missing?
Since I don't have much time (or knowledge) I was thinking that this set-up from Ted might be the best route for me. It looks easy enough (haha) to pull the head.
Thoughts?
07-25-2008, 12:10 PM
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Some more questions...
In talking with some people I work with, they all said that I needed to get the block re-surfaced at a machine shop regardless if I use a new head or not...is this true?
Cam installation...how difficult is it for a newbie that has never done it before?
bumpity bump bump
In talking with some people I work with, they all said that I needed to get the block re-surfaced at a machine shop regardless if I use a new head or not...is this true?
Cam installation...how difficult is it for a newbie that has never done it before?
bumpity bump bump
07-26-2008, 08:42 PM
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Okay....so I am having trouble pulling off the air intake chamber. I removed the four bolts and two nuts that are obvious, the two bolts at the firewall side, and various hoses. What am I missing. I tug on it and it does not move. Need I tap it with a rubber mallet?
On the exhaust side, I am having better luck thus far. All nuts and bolts into the block are free...two of the three nuts on the exhaust flange are out. The last one if fighting...plus the two on the metal rail.
Enginebuilder head will be on its way shortly with the 261 cam, new head gasket and new head bolts. Holding off on anything else...except once I get to the injectors, I am pulling them and sending them to Witchhunter.
So...help with the air intake chamber????
On the exhaust side, I am having better luck thus far. All nuts and bolts into the block are free...two of the three nuts on the exhaust flange are out. The last one if fighting...plus the two on the metal rail.
Enginebuilder head will be on its way shortly with the 261 cam, new head gasket and new head bolts. Holding off on anything else...except once I get to the injectors, I am pulling them and sending them to Witchhunter.
So...help with the air intake chamber????
07-27-2008, 09:31 AM
#72
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Well, exhaust manifold is off (with no broken bolts!!). Freakin' air intake chamber won't come off...I think it is the stud closer to the firewall. I did some quick reading and some folks suggest pulling the head with it all attached?
Advice please....
Advice please....
07-27-2008, 06:59 PM
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Still can't separate the air intake chamber...so I removed all the head bolts and loosened the head. Everything seems to move fairly easily. Now I am trying to figure out the wiring and how to pull it all through the two pieces of intake.
Any special ideas for removing the wiring to the injectors? I can't seem to get the little buggers off. Other wires to be aware of.
Any special ideas for removing the wiring to the injectors? I can't seem to get the little buggers off. Other wires to be aware of.
07-27-2008, 07:25 PM
#74
I don't know about your specific thing there but be patient and you'll get there. Some of those old connectors don't like to come apart. They have been together for years, etc. On the bright side, you could be sterile. Once you learn a skill and have some confidence, no one can take that from you! You'll be a headgasket monster in no time. 
07-27-2008, 07:59 PM
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check very closely about the bolts through the intake to the head- particularly around the thermostat
...and on the other side, how could being sterile be considered "on the bright side"?
...and on the other side, how could being sterile be considered "on the bright side"?
07-28-2008, 07:05 PM
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You ed it up good. Looks like you didnt have the camshaft in time with the crankshaft and that you put the sprocket gear on there and then torqued it while it was half way on. Cranked the engine, and it probably caught the pin and got your truck running. Then after the pin couldnt take the pressure anymore, or once it slipped back off, it broke. Your valves should be fine, they are overhead design and wont bend if you are an idiot and mess up. 
Looks like you could reuse the old timing gear and go find a new dowell pin for the cam. Make SURE that the cam pin is pointing up! Id say that it rolled to the side on you after you took it apart and then when you put it together you missed getting it all the way onto that pin. You got some metal to get rid of now though. You should be able to use your old parts, they send you a new gear tho because the old ones have the timing mark under the chain and you cant line it up as easily as the new ones.
OH and, I used to buy parts from engnbldr.com too but my engines kept leaking oil. I got a new supplier after the ers sent me a bunk oil pump that cost me a pretty penny on a customers truck. Oh and, no more oil leaks on my 84 4runner!
Looks like you could reuse the old timing gear and go find a new dowell pin for the cam. Make SURE that the cam pin is pointing up! Id say that it rolled to the side on you after you took it apart and then when you put it together you missed getting it all the way onto that pin. You got some metal to get rid of now though. You should be able to use your old parts, they send you a new gear tho because the old ones have the timing mark under the chain and you cant line it up as easily as the new ones. OH and, I used to buy parts from engnbldr.com too but my engines kept leaking oil. I got a new supplier after the ers sent me a bunk oil pump that cost me a pretty penny on a customers truck. Oh and, no more oil leaks on my 84 4runner!
07-28-2008, 07:10 PM
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You ed it up good. Looks like you didnt have the camshaft in time with the crankshaft and that you put the sprocket gear on there and then torqued it while it was half way on. Cranked the engine, and it probably caught the pin and got your truck running. Then after the pin couldnt take the pressure anymore, or once it slipped back off, it broke. Your valves should be fine, they are overhead design and wont bend if you are an idiot and mess up. Looks like you could reuse the old timing gear and go find a new dowell pin for the cam. Make SURE that the cam pin is pointing up! Id say that it rolled to the side on you after you took it apart and then when you put it together you missed getting it all the way onto that pin. You got some metal to get rid of now though. You should be able to use your old parts, they send you a new gear tho because the old ones have the timing mark under the chain and you cant line it up as easily as the new ones.
OH and, I used to buy parts from engnbldr.com too but my engines kept leaking oil. I got a new supplier after the ers sent me a bunk oil pump that cost me a pretty penny on a customers truck. Oh and, no more oil leaks on my 84 4runner!
Looks like you could reuse the old timing gear and go find a new dowell pin for the cam. Make SURE that the cam pin is pointing up! Id say that it rolled to the side on you after you took it apart and then when you put it together you missed getting it all the way onto that pin. You got some metal to get rid of now though. You should be able to use your old parts, they send you a new gear tho because the old ones have the timing mark under the chain and you cant line it up as easily as the new ones. OH and, I used to buy parts from engnbldr.com too but my engines kept leaking oil. I got a new supplier after the ers sent me a bunk oil pump that cost me a pretty penny on a customers truck. Oh and, no more oil leaks on my 84 4runner!
and leaking gaskets are typically caused by improper installation with incorrect sealants or bolt torques.
