superscreenname

Ok where to start?......well, I bought an 87 runner with a locked motor, pulled it our last year and have just put it all to the side for awhile. I am starting the project back up, bought a 22re longblock from a guy yesterday. The motor is an over the water crate motor that supposedly only has 40,000 miles on it, but has been sitting in his garage for 2 years. I got it home and tore it down to a shortblock last night and can't decide where to go from here. It appears to be in really good shape, I can post up pictures if it would help answer these questions. Cost is an issue but I don't wanna pinch pennies for an inferior result. I don't know how far into the motor I really need to go. Any reccommendations? Should I just replace everything while I have her out? Should I just stick it all back together and hope for the best? This is my first engine build all by myself. I am pretty good with a wrench and don't mind the down time because I have all winter and I have a truck to drive on a daily basis. There is just a minor lip at the top of the cylinders. Do I still need to reem it off to remove the pistons? I don't have this tool. Can I get away without a machine shop removing the freeze plugs cleaning out all the passages and replacing them. IS this a bad idea to skip this step? Is it cheaper to just buy a new head than to rebuild? I don't even wanna attempt the headwork myself, but I have two stock heads now that I would kinda hate to see just go to waste so to speak. Is headwork as hard as the Haynes manual claims? Sorry for rambling on, I just don't know how far to go. Please help give me some direction...and thanks.

SEAIRESCUE

Ok, lots of choices. Since you invested in an unknown engine, I presume that is what you want to use. So, I would pull the pan and remove all the crank main caps and visually inspect them. MAY give you some indication of the rest of the motors condition. Put main caps back on and do same with the rods. If all looks good, get some Plastigage and check all the clearances. 0.001-0.002 is a good range. IF the ridge at the top is just carbon, good. If its wear, I would be suspect with only 40K miles. A hone will remove the carbon. If its ridge, take the block to a automotive machine shop. Have the block cleaned, crank turned and you may be able to get away with knurling the pistons and installing new Hastings iron rings. They seat really quickly under some really crappy conditions. If it has to be oversized, will better now than next year and mo money. Yes, you can pull the freeze plugs yourself. Drill a hole in each and pull with a slide hammer. Don't knock them into the block. Will never get them out. Take a head to the shop and let them do a valve job with a very light cleanup on the head surface. If you have injectors, send them to Doctor Injector in Washington or similar place to have them cleaned. Don't skimp on cheap parts. I recommend Engine Builder out of Washington. Now, get busy.

superscreenname

Just found out that the engine came from 22re.com. The build up is just carbon from what I can tell. I don't really mind spending the cash on the rebuild kit but I dont wanna pay big bucks for machine work if I can get away with just having my mechanic hone the cylinders and go on with it.

Itoyota

Do it right, and do it right the first time. Trust me. I tried doing the SAME exact thing you are planning to do and i paid for it through my nose. Maybe it's just my luck. Hope it works out the best for you. good luck.

anotherjeff

Good used engines do NOT require rebuilding!
Good used heads do NOT require expensive machine work!
imho: buy a gasket set and timing kit, select the best head, put it together, drive it!
Why spend money needlessly?

superscreenname

I am just gonna go ahead and tear it down and rebuild, I just wanna be safe not sorry. It will just take a couple more months because of the financial aspect, but she will be perfect when I am done. Hopefully I can get some good deals on machine work. I will do the rest.

dcg9381

Curious.. why would you spend the cash on a low mileage motor to treat it like a core? If you're going to rebuild - pick up a complete core in the $100-$200 range.

If it really has 40k on it - as I understand many motors from Japan do have low miles - I wouldn't touch it. If you want to freshen it, do timing chain...

superscreenname

I only paid 200 bucks for it! I got a great deal. Plus I am up for the learning experience. I tore it down to just the block tonight and I believe it probly had 40,000 or less miles on it. You are probably right, I think this was unnessesary but I want to know these motors inside and out over the next few years. Everything appears to be in great shape, so I am gonna skip the machining and just have my mechanic buddy hone her out and then I can put her back together. I will post some pics in a sec. Thanks for your input though dcg.

superscreenname

Here is the ol' nasty thing that came out, gonna probly rebuild it as soon as I can afford it for the yota I hope to find.



Here is what I got the deal on, all stripped down.



all the parts that came out of her....






and the truck I am gonna put this back into.....




I can't wait to get it driving.

lonestar

Its kinda like in building a barn or just about anything.....
Measure twice, cut once. Make sure you check all specs, have a good torque wrench, don't rush, and if that was a haynes manual in the picture, buy a factory one.
I did a rebuild ground up with a haynes, but let the machine shop short block it for me.... I felt like I might perma screw something if I dove all the way in on my first try....GGGGGGGGGGGGGOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOODDDDDDDDDD
LLLLLLLLLLLLLLUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCCCCCCCCCCCCKKK KKKKKKKKKK

superscreenname

Yea, I wish I knew where to get a Toyota service manual. And yes, I am gonna take my time, I have all winter to just do it slow and do it right, and pay attention to all the details. I am just gonna do what I can as the finances allow.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Here ya go. This got me through the head gasket on my 86.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Just print out what you need on any particular day of work and don't worry about how much you crap it up in the shop!

superscreenname

Thanks so much. I really appreciate that.

superscreenname

Well, it kinda sucks I just found out the block I bought has been bored .40 over so this is the last build I will be able to get out of it. But at least she will have a few more horsepower than stock.

dcg9381

Very unlikely that it's a JDM low mileage motor... Motors in Japan get major tear downs at low mileage marks, which is why you see many get shipped to the US.

The last motor I pulled apart was .040 over. .060 is safe on most standard casting. LC takes *some* castings to .080 over (2mm) - but not all make it.

The power difference isn't much...

superscreenname

Yeah, I guess I was lied to and took the bait. Oh well. Thanks for the info, good to know they can go up to .60 over. Everything else came in real good though so I can just replace the bearings, piston rings and other misc. parts, hone the cylinders and put her back together. Hope it all works. hahaha

Itoyota

good thing you tore her down then. You might have been regretting it later on down the road.

Jeenyus04

now you can use that extra $ to sas the truck!

misterzee

1. I always heard that there are not any 22re engines that come from japan, like they never used them 'there'...
2. My machinist said .40 is the limit on the 22r block, there just ain't much more meat there to drill out...
3. I would let my shop measure the block and crank, if the clearances are good, get it tanked and honed, and put new inserts in the bearings and new rings in there. If you put it back together right, I'll probalby give you 75-100k miles easily.

If you require 200k miles, get a different engine... start from scratch.

superscreenname

I always thought that .40 over was the limit on a 22re as well. I am just gonna rebuild this one and get the truck running so I can try and find out what else it needs to have repaired. I have the block that came out of it originally that I can bore and rebuild next. I hope to find another gen 1 that I can SAS if it doesn't already have one when I find it. I love these trucks.


ALso, if this motor really came from 22re.com like I was told, I wouldn't reccommend them to anyone, the claims don't match the merchandise.