thook

Well, I've only got 8k in my kit, so far. The other day, though, I had the valve cover off to adjust the valves and noticed there's already 1/16" or very slightly more wear on the driver side guide. (Bear in mind, there isn't much material on the guide, anyway) Can't tell much on the tensioner, but I'm gonna keep an eye on it. Valve check every 30k!

Solomon8

Maybe start a thread "How Many Miles On Your 22RE After Market Timing Kit?"

thook

Oh, I don't think that's necessary. I could just do some web searching or just call Ted......if I was really concerned.

Solomon8

I will keep 30K valve check specs in mind. I notice after installing the FEK a slight decrease in power. Would that be cause by the chain riding the guide? Or because everything is real tight and needs to loosen up a little.

thook

Not the chain riding the guide. Might tinker with your valve adjustment or timing. But, really...it's hard to say what your loss of power is.

fissure333

I did the EB top end and tc about 8k ago. Now the bottom end took a dump. Tore it down and the tensioner has been eaten by the chain and the steel guide is almost down to the metal. Im going oem osk plastic this time. Was it operator error? I'm not sure, but it's not daddy's first day. The chain droops held on its side like the one with 225k on it did when i took it out. OSK all the way for me, but don't have 400 bills to drop at the stealership for it. Good luck out there.

Darryl01088

My 94 pickup with a 22RE went 220,000 before I changed the chain. I just bought an aftermarket "OEM" quality set at Napa. It had the plastic guides. I would avoid the e-bay, autozone or no-name parts.

Mandy Tuning

anyone have use "Camellia" brand,they are japanes timing components and kits,we only use this in our island

92dlxman

this may be ancient but, my engnbldr kit (chain, sprockets, tensioner, guides) has 12,000 miles on it and the guide still looks good. i do worry about when the plastic is eaten and the chain starts wearing against the steel backer. will there be enough slack there to hear it? i dont know. one way to find out

there is a new noise developing on startup though. 212,000 mile oil pump not pushing fast enough or crappy tensioner? . . . . . . btw the oil pressure guage (factory, in dash) shows good under all conditions other than the second or two after startup

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Going with plastic replacement guides is STUPID. Datsun L-series motors, which were manufactured for roughly 20 years, used steel-backed guides. And the bridge is larger between cam and crank (or it visually appears so anyways).

If a steel guide breaks on your 22R, it's due to something else. STEEL!!!!! I can not believe this thread went 3 pages. The plastic ones do last, but how do you compete? Large chunks of plastic clogging your oil pickup vs. micro-particles of composite material flaking off of the steel backed guides.

One could say that the brake pad-like material grinding off from the steel guides over time MAY result in bearing failure, but that's one of multiple reasons why we change motor oil.

fissure333

don't you think that toyota, with their unlimited R&D budget, would have chosen a steel guide if it was better or more reliable? I guess you can do what you want, but i'm going to stick with what the engineers at toyota designed and tested. changing the timing chain rail is much better than another empty engine bay with parts laying around the garage and bolts in zip lock bags. if you don't think that little metal particles mixed in suspension with your oil is going to cause you any grief, well then more power to ya.

upslidedown

iv got a brand new motor with about 35 miles on it and and i drained my oil to change a leaky oil pan gasket and it was full of antifreeze!!! used my old timing chain cover but didnt check the sides for wear. anybody have any ideas? im thinking one of the gaskets on the side of the cover could be mixing up the oil and coolant galleys, but would like some input on this. has anybody ever had problems with new tensioners or guards??

Mandy Tuning

did anybody notice before the 22re there was 22r,21r,20r,18r,8r etc all with metal guides for near 20 years when they change to plastic? never seen one of these engines fail cause broken guides and there are a lot of old celicas,pup, coronas on the street here in P.R,the trick of plastic is less noise.

fissure333

i'm going back to plastic because after 8k the pad on the steel rail is nearly gone. most after market parts are inferior to factory by design. i'm no longer interested in money saver parts for most of what i install on my toyota. if the engineers at toyota felt that a steel rail would benefit the 22re then there would be one on the engine from the factory. they must have found some negative results during testing to make them change. maybe more than just making it a little quieter. this is my opinion. i don't work in japan for toyota.

XtraSlow_XtraCab

Straight steel? Really? The guides have a composite on them similar to that of a brake pad. You haven't even bothered to look at a set have you

XtraSlow_XtraCab

I can understand poor quality parts beign frustrating, but 8k miles running through that pad is either a fluke or poor manufacturing or both. Upon removing the old, steel/pad guides on my Datsun motor (100+ thousand miles) they were worn only half through.

I can't recall if 22R motors have adjustment to their guides, but in the case of a Datsun there was an adjustment option. Perhaps your situation is of a matter regarding adjustment... or poor quality parts.

fissure333

not to start a pissing match, cause i'll win, but if you think that i don't understand that it's a steel bracket lined with a composite...? a couple posts back, if you read through this thread, you'll see that i'm doing away with mine because the quality out of the rock kit is crap. the only way i'd use a steel rail again would be to order one for the '84 22r and mill it down to the specs of the plastic guide for my 22re. atleast the product is of toyota quality and standards. i'm just not as excited to have metal shavings, however minute, cruising around the bottom end in an oil solution. good luck out there.

XtraSlow_XtraCab

And I shall leave you with your self-proclaimed victory.

fissure333

i accept so we can get back on subject.

tysen86

Well, since everyone seems to be so scared of tiny metal peices floating around in your bottom end, I guess we better go to plastic piston rings, and plastic bearings! The whole point of changing your oil AND FILTER is to get rid of those tiny shavings. If you let your guides (no matter what kind) get so bad that they start letting any kind of shavings get in your oil, you FAIL as a Toyota owner!!! Bottom line, change your oil when you should, pull off your valve cover and take a good look around once in a while and adjust your valves while your there! I can do all of that in an hour, on a bad day!

Personally, I run steal guides in my 22re because i shaved .010 off the head and .010 off the block when I built the motor, thus putting a slight bit of extra slack in the chain and I want a guide that can handle a little extra slap. I change my timing set as soon as I think there might be a problem. It's not that hard and can be done in an afternoon. That's my $.02