ahickman

Yeah, the engine will surely die as the fuel pump will shut off as well as the ECU can not gauge the air intake and properly adjust the injector duration (amount of fuel). To test the VAF, you don't need the engine running.

crews462

Thanks Aaron, Do the checks tommorow at work, seemed so simple as something like fuel, but nothing is easy. Seems you follow one lead and get your mind set and it's hard to go another way.
I'll post some pics too.

thook

Ah.....well.....I was going to say,"but, Aaron....my truck didn't die". But, my COR is permanently on! Right.....doh!

abecedarian

It's possible that a sudden change from winter gas to summer gas has hit you. It's also possible that the warmer temps are causing more condensation in the gas station tanks and you're getting some water in with your gas. The injector cleaner probably masks whatever is going on since it burns easier than gasoline and compensates a bit for some water. If I were worried about water in the tank, I'd add a pint or two of isopropyl alchohol to the tank every fill-up or two- it mixes the water into the gas and carries it away into the engine and out the tail pipe.

Yeah, if you pull the AFM you'd think it would die, but the system could still be energized through the idle air valve (keep in mind, I'm looking at a general circuit diagram, not the specific one for any vehicle- I'll find a more specific diagram when I know the year of the vehicle in question) or through the ignition switch itself if the COR is failing.

You're probably AFU with the AFM ATM... lol. Once that spring comes loose, you'll be hard pressed to get everything back together.

ahickman

I have the VAF completely dissasembled and don't think the repair can be made. The metal band is made of hard steel and the holder is plastic. Only thing I can think of is to drill a pinhole and set a small jewels screw. Just not enough material to work with and think it will only break somewhere down the road. Since this is a sealed unit, I doubt Toyota would sell the $5 part needed to fix it. If you know some Joe that would have a used VAF for a good price, by all means send me the contact info. Thanks.

abecedarian

You may be able to reinsert the spring into the vane shaft and add tension to it in order to get the vane responding properly, you'll just have to ensure that if and/or when you do, you get that spring permanently mated with the AFM shaft.

whoops, missed your reply.

I don't know anyone in your area with one. There is a wrecking yard up in Rancho Cordova, California that has a lot of toy parts and they may have one and will ship to you https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123.../#post50716916
I think I gave you this link for an ECU....

crews462

So you think my initial diagnosis could be correct of the poor fuel. Should I stop using the fuel injector cleaner altogether. Switch to isopropyl alchohol and run the tests on the vam and tps, should solve the problem, hopefully!
THanks

abecedarian

A few bucks spent on fuel system drier mixes or even isopropyl alcohol (they're mostly the same thing) is better than spending hundreds on replacing parts you don't need.
I'd say use the driers/alcohol for a few tanks, then if the problem doesn't go away with a full (and I mean FULL tank) start looking at other things, like testing the TPS etc.

89trknwby

wow, thanks for all of the info. I have a 89 4x4, 5spd. 22re. I'm going to test the tps and the afm in the morning. THANKS!!

abecedarian

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml

Should give you something to work with.

ahickman

For those interested, here is a picture of the coil and AFM shaft lock that broke.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...BrokenCoil.jpg

abecedarian

YEP! That'll ruin an engine's drivablility, fuel mix, yadda-yadda-yadda....
The sad thing is that the spring is set in such a way that if it fails, it just pulls out of the housings. It would've been nice if it had say, a 90 kink in the end of it.

abecedarian

Let me be the first to say:
"It's worked so far, but we're not out yet."

(+10 points to the first to report the song that's from)

ahickman

Uh, if it didn't break they would never get to sell the replacements for $800 would they? I agree. There ought to be a hook or even better metal to metal contact. Not sure why they chose to use plastic around the shaft either. Metal would have been better.

abecedarian

Yeah, I suppose, but if they made it a bit better... by spending that extra 12 cents to fold an angle into that spring... then they could've raised the cost of the trucks a grand at least, no?

thook

Hey guys....intentional, yet short lived hijack here....sorry, Aaron.

During my rebuild (22re) I lost the dipstick. I had one for a V6, so cut it long enough and stuck it in. Well, I'm at the 500mi marker for the first oil change on break in. I'd go by the amount of oil to mark my "new" stick, but I'm on unlevel ground.

Would one of you guys get me the measurements for the dipstick? From tip to top, from tip to low level, and tip to full?

ahickman

Abe's comment about a 90 degree angle got my wheels in gear. Flipped the plastic piece over and bent the coil over. Seems to retain tension over the full swing across the resistor pad. Temporary, but might get my daughter and I to Bruster's for an ice-cream tomorrow night!

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...coilrepair.jpg

abecedarian

Hope I didn't make you wait too long. I'm going out to my truck right now- it's 7:29 pm pacific time. I'll measure from the 'end' of the dipstick to the 'low' mark and to the 'full' mark.

ahickman

Two pics of the dipstick lying on a tape measure.

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n.../dipstick1.jpg

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n.../dipstick2.jpg

Tip of dipstick at 2"
Low mark at 2-5/8"
Full mark at 3-1/4"
Top of stick (grommet) at 16-3/8"

Total depth (grommet to end of stick) is 14-3/8"

abecedarian

from tip of stick to 'low': 3/8 inch
from tip of stick to 'high': 1 5/8 inch
from tip of stick to dipstick 'stopper': 14 1/4 inch

yikes... big differences....