Cookie Monster

Well still so far so good, i will be taking it for a couple hour road trip, and most likely some mud bogging today so i guess that will be the real test!

...and Badger, thats why you turn your underwear inside out! Like fresh again! XP

Ratchet straps would have been a great idea. I will add that to the OP for anyone else attempting this.

Hearing others have done this with success is helping with the paranoia, so thanks guys!

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Just throw the undies out and go commando at that point. And the ratchet straps are a great idea. Totally going to try and remember that one for the future. Glad she's running well for you.

Cookie Monster

Annnnnnnnnnnd..... Leaky head gasket.

Bring on the i told you so's.

Ordering the following to do it right:
Engnbldr "Full Gasket Set"
Head bolts
Timing chain, sprockets, and guides
Water Pump
Oil Pump

Badger62811

Oh come on now. No "I told you so" coming from this guy. Just a friendly ol' "should've done it right the first time" and "saw that coming 500 miles down the road."

The good news is that it should be relatively quick since you have pretty much done it once. And I'm glad you're going with engnbldr. I used their gasket kit and bolts and had zero problems.

Cookie Monster

I was also thinking of getting a new set of stock size piston rings as well, any input is welcomed. Couldnt hurt

millball

In for a penny, in for a pound. You'll have to hone the cylinders to get new rings to seat. Then there's rod bearings too. It's a pain to drop the oil pan on some of these trucks.

Might as well pull the engine and go to town on it.

Cookie Monster

Ah i see, i will look into honing the cylinders, im hoping to not go to a machine shop. As it stands now the rings seem fine (Decent numbers on a compression test) and no blow by, so i would assume the valves are alright, it was running like a top until i got my fingers in there, and its a fairly low mileage motor, so i dont see there being anything terribly wrong.

millball

If it was running well, with acceptable oil consumption, do the head gasket and timing components, and keep running her as is.


Ahem.......... I did told ya so.

Badger62811

Oh now you want our advice. Day late and a dollar short... hahaha only kidding. My philosophy is if it ain't broke, don't fix it. You originally wanted a new cam, your old one was fine, you took a shortcut and are now paying the price. I say stick with what you're doing. Some might say "we'll if you're already doing work on it...." I can't ever afford to do extra. I can barely afford to fix what's broken.

Cookie Monster

Haha yeah, look who came craaaaawllling back

It wasnt broken you're right, but it was lacking haha.

The notice in power after retiming, and retuning for the new cam was pretty epic though! I never would have dreamed doing highway speeds with 4.10's and 35x13.5 m/t's The truck has never run better than it does right now... Unfortunately it burns about a quart of coolant every 15 mins lol. None in the oil, none on the ground... It is parked until the work is done though.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

I've had the engine builder supplied head gasket fail on me. 20k after a rebuild. I only use OEM head gaskets now for that reason.

Mr.Utah

Head gasket failure can be caused by bad cam to crank timing, and bolt torque, you need to degree your motor to make sure. The gasket itself is usually not to blame.

Cookie Monster

When I pulled the timing chain/sprocket off the cam i had the chain and sprocket wired together in two places so I wouldn't jump a tooth, and the new cam went in in the same position as the old one (the key pointing to the ~11:30 position).

So that being said is there something else I should be doing to "time" the cam?

Also I will no question be dealing with Egnbldr for my replacement parts, they have been working on Toyota enginea for almost as long as I have been alive, and their customer service, and knowledge base/willingness to help find the ***RIGHT**** part, not the one they want you to buy is nothing short of exceptional. Sorry to hear you had bad luck with a product of theirs, but I have full faith in their parts.

Mr.Utah

Find absolute top dead center for crank. Use cam card to measure and adjust cam to crank. If not in spec, you will need to get an adjustable cam sprocket from LCE or 22RE Performance. They are costly, but will help with compression, horse power, and fewer head gasket failures. Look up Degreeing motors on youtube.
If you don't do this, line up the cam and crank the best you can and hope for the best. If you have a new head, you probably won't need this. Good Luck

Cookie Monster

Thanks Mr. Utah, I will definitely get a cam card and see if its within spec! The head is factory, never been machined so I would imagine it couldn't be to far out but it doesn't hurt to check!

Cookie Monster

So... A little update.

Checked compression, got 145,150,155,155. I figure those results would conclude that i dont have a leaky cylinder.

Pulled off exhaust manifold to inspect the ports (Looking for a cleaner than usual port) and found them all to be consistently black and sooty... So i suppose that means there isnt any coolant leaking directly into my exhaust...

Reset timing from 8 to 6 thinking possibly some coolant was being super heated and steaming out of the breather on the overflow tank... Thats a bit of a stretch but hey, im kinda willing to try anything at this point...

Although while thinking back on everything ive done to the truck, and trying to figure something out i remembered a while back, when i swapped the current engine into this truck, my cousin dropped a bolt into the intake, so we pulled the manifold off to get the bolt out and i had to clean surfaces, and rtv it to get back on the road.. Im thinking it could be some coolant leaking through the "ghetto gasket" into the intake manifold and spritzing the whole intake, while inspecting the plugs i noticed they were a slightly different color than the usual marshmallow -> toasted marshmallow color.

There also seemed to be a thin crusty reddish brownish coating on all 4 plugs. (I took a pic and will upload it a little later). Which i think could be rust from water/coolant in the cylinders.

Another side note, my oil pressure seems to be slightly lower than what i remember it being at idle, i havnt taken it out on the highway and seen what it would do, but i seem to remember it being 20-25psi at idle, and 75psi at highway speed. For now it sits at about 15psi at idle. The oil is like honey, and doesnt smell of gas.

Im still taking suggestions though haha

aztoyman

If you don't have milkshake looking oil, no white smoke, no evidence of water or coolant on the plugs or exhaust, and good compression numbers why do you think it's a head gasket or intake gasket?


Is there any chance you filled the radiator too fast and got an air bubble in the cooling system? It will get hot and blow it out the over flow. The gauge can fool you and not show hot because air on the sensor instead of coolant. Fill the rad S L O W and leave the T-stat housing off until full if you really want to make sure no air trapped.


If you DID get coolant in the engine it tends to take out your O2 sensor and ruin main and rod bearings. I hope you are OK but if not, you may as well pull it and go to town as suggested.

Cookie Monster

Thanks for the input aztoyman

No milkshakes, no abnormal white smoke(it is still below freezing here though, so there is always steam coming from the tailpipe.

Ive "burped" the coolant system multiple times, and have lost far to much coolant to have an air bubble. Its not a matter of where its not at this point, but a matter of figuring where it is going

Also this is a 22r, so no sensors of any kind... other than mechanical gauges... Which arent really sensors.. so i guess no, no sensors

No real evidence except for this:

aztoyman

Sorry, I was thinking 22RE. That plug doesn't look like it got steam cleaned.


Nothing on the ground? Not the heater core?


Pressure test the cooling system and look for the leak. Gotta be going somewhere.


Can you smell coolant? Any chance the rad has a pin hole and the fan is slinging it?


Radiator cap not holding and going out over flow? Do you have an overflow bottle or just a hose to the ground?


Just brainstorming here. If it's not in the oil or out the exhaust, it's gotta be an external leak somewhere.


Blown head gaskets usually cause rough running, milkshake oil and lots of white smoke out the exhaust. Often pressure in the radiator blowing coolant out too.


If you have none of this and good compression it doesn't seem to be a head gasket unless it is just barely starting to happen. Not bad enough yet to be obvious.


Pressure check it. If no external leaks, pull the sparkplugs and crank it over to see if coolant blows out any of the cylinders. Good luck!

Cookie Monster

Yeah, it doesnt look steam cleaned, but it sorta looked like rust to me...Maybe im just looking for something thats not there, im not to sure.

Heater is still working as it should (Except when it was low on coolant, it would only blow cold air obviously)

No fluids of anykind on the ground (And there is snow on the ground so 1 single drop is clearly visible )

I have to pick up more coolant today, i burned all the spare anti-freeze i had and had added pure water, its quite diluted. (Thank goodness for block heaters) So i would imagine the sweet smell wouldnt be distinguishable. No coolant leaking in the engine bay, i have discovered bad water pumps by the old water spraying you in the face when you lean over the motor, but that doesnt seem to be the case.

I like your idea of pressure testing the coolant system, that is definitely one of the next things on the list to try.

When i pulled the plugs for the compression test, all the plugs were dry, and i would imagine by the time i got to the 4th cylinder, if there was coolant going into the cylinder i would have a wet plug.

Thanks AZ!!