edmondsonknives

Thank you Chinktruck!!!!!

millball

My 100% factory original 1987 4Runner 22re fuel injected engine has the O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold. It is a single wire O2 sensor.

This truck (my '87) has no PAIR air injection system.

My '88 4Runner with PAIR has a multi-wire O2 sensor down the header pipe just before the cat.

ChinkTruck

Crazy, was that truck "canadian emissions"? Because I've never seen that set up here in the US. Manifold on the left is for carb truck, right is EFI. Most the after market ones today all have o2 port tapped but come with a block off plate if your EFI. I would try to find the original style w/ no port tapped, one less future exhaust leak to worry about, But thats just me.

millball

Neither of my Runners are Canadian spec.

My '87 EFI has manifold as on the left, with factory block-off plates for the air injection holes,

and my '88 EFI has manifold as on the right and uses Pair air piping.

ChinkTruck

well you learn something new everyday. I've never seen or even heard of factory block plates for the air injection or the o2 sensor on the manifold for EFI trucks. Will definitely be looking for that in the future.

millball

Only ones like this I've seen are on '86 and '87 models, might be others though, IDK.

edmondsonknives

Update, fuel pressure checked out great, installed a new fuel filter. Replace cracked exhaust manifold, replaced o2 sensor with a OEM instead of the bosh, still no power. It runs cranks but no power at all when climbing a hill. Im at a loss for what to do?

osv

did you check for codes?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

What I would do is to clean the Intake System up real well. The links below will show about what is going to need done.

Next I would make sure I had my filters, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, replaced or in great shape using factory parts.

I would make sure my Timing is correct. All hoses are clear of carbon and no cracks in them or replaced as needed. Make sure all are routed correctly.

No air leaks in the Intake System. Make sure that the Air Flow Meter is operating correctly. It will only throw a code if the harness is not connected. I have never gotten a code for a bad AFM and I have had some bad ones. Check that the gate moves freely.

Valves adjusted and follow tune up procedures per factory or Haynes Manual.

EGR... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51647988

Sensors... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719

If you have the original TPS with a lot of age and miles on it I would look at replacing it.

These steps are not in the correct order. I was helping a guy the other day and he was trying to trouble shoot a problem and it turned out to be a worn out replaceable tune up part.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Would be a good time to double check the fuel and ignition, take the extra step to preform the tests at the ECU.

A super lean condition might not trigger a code if say one injector is clogged such that when the ECU commands more fuel the other three compensate however the lean cylinder only gets a marginal if any gain. The super lean cylinder will see the slight if any increase from it's injector plus what ever is riding the plenum wave.

I do not know if the ECU reads each exhaust pulse on individual cylinders or a single cylinder. Also unknown is if the ECU is tuned to read the pulse it is looking for adjusted for the travel time to the sensor.

RASALIBRE

Check for vacuum leaks and check your throttle position sensor following 4crawlers diy.

edmondsonknives

something I think I should add that I didnt is the truck is now ideling great, it has the full range in throttle while sitting. Soon as its in gear and any sign of a load, she acts like were pulling huge heavy load. Tomorrow I will check the codes again and see if I have any, last time I checked them I showed a 6 and a 11 code. Thank you all very much, wife is real tired of me taking her car to work.....

RASALIBRE

6
No engine revolution sensor (Ne) signal to ECU
- Ne being over 1000 RPM in spite of no Ne signal to ECU
- Defective Igniter circuit
- Defective Igniter
- Defective distributor
- Defective ECU

11
Short circuit in Check Connector T with A/C switch ON or TPS - IDL point OFF
- Defective A/C switch
- Defective TPS circuit
- Defective TPS
- Defective ECU

edmondsonknives

Update, I unhooked the battery, hooked it back up, drove the truck to my house which is probably 3 miles from my dads shop. Opened the hood and the new exhaust manifold was glowing red hot. I checked the codes again and got a code 11, now the compressor for the AC is unhooked on the truck so I wonder if thats making it spit the 11 code? New o2 sensor "denso", no exhaust manifold leak, and new pipe but still glowing.

osv

is the timing set correctly? it could be timing or it could be a clogged catalytic converter.

edmondsonknives

Timing was set right before exhaust manifold was installed, truck doesnt have a cat, just a turbo tube and pipe

osv

need to fix the code problem... also try these tips: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...red-hot-2.html

the171

A glowing exhaust manifold is a serious problem. The engine is overheating big time. I would do a compression check before anything else to find out if the engine is still useable. After that its time to inspect the cooling system.

While the EFI system on the 22RE is great even today, the driver information system is terrible. At a minimum you need water temp and oil pressure gauges to see how the engine is running. If youre getting above 215 degrees, its time to shut her down. If youre not making 50 psi above 3000 rpm, its time for a rebuild. Use a wideband to make sure youre not leaning out. But that wouldnt be the case if youre getting hot just driving a few miles.

A red hot manifold indicates a generally a mechanical problem such as lack of cooling or severe exhaust obstruction or loss of oil pressure.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Is the heater control set to AC? Is someone pressing the gas pedal? Why do you still have the test port jumpered? That is what code 11 is, someone turned on the AC or pressed the gas pedal while it was in diagnostic mode.. A: Take the jumper out before you drive or/and B: re-adjust your TPS.

Does the water jacket really have that much effect on the exhaust manifold since it has the gasket that is essentially asbestos but eco friendly and only has the few studs to sink heat thru it doesn't transfer a lot of heat to or from the block thru those when compared to the exhaust gas.

Someone above mentioned putting a wideband oxygen sensor. I think that is the way to go. If you want to know what is going on in the exhaust manifold it needs sensors like an accurate o2 reading, EGT, and back pressure. Terry chased his cherry manifold so far he's decided it needs a carburator

RASALIBRE

Describe what you mean by "timing was set." How did you set the timing? Usually you can't get into base timing mode if you're throwing a code 11, and you need to be in base timing mode to set the timing correctly.

Have you checked that the crank, cam, distro all line up at TDC? Have you checked for intake leaks? Have you done a compression check?

If your exhaust manifold is glowing, it's either timing, an extremely lean air fuel mixture, a combination of the two, or an obstruction in the exhaust. Obviously not a cat blockage issue as you don't have one.

Lean air fuel ratio can be from a few things, but let's not get carried away. You have a code 11, which deals with the TPS, which the ECU uses to understand how much air is coming into the engine (in conjunction with the AFM). But you say that the TPS tested out fine. If that's actually the case, there probably is a intake/vacuum leak somewhere in between the AFM and throttle body, and/or and intake/vacuum leak somewhere in between the throttle body and the intake side of the head, causing the extremely lean condition. (Big leak)
You also threw a code 6 at one point meaning the ECU has no engine revolution signal(NE) or the Ne signal is over 1000 RPM in spite of no Ne signal to ECU. 22re engines don't have a cam or crank sensor to count revolutions. The Ne signal comes directly from the distributor, so if the NE signal is out of whack check to see if; the pickup is fried, air gap issue, the igniter signal is fried, igniter itself is fried, wiring issue somewhere between distributor pickup and igniter, wiring issue between igniter and ECU, distributor was stabbed wrong, timing somehow skipped teeth. All these can cause timing advance issues and too much timing advancement issues.

I suspect faulty TPS, and vacuum leaks, and timing bunged up.