rAvery

Hey all.

My truck is an 85 Truck 4x4 with 22R.

I got a new engine a while back, and went for a new clutch as well so I don't have to deal with it in a few months or within the year.

The mechanic who did the install said I needed a new Slave cylinder for my clutch.

A month ago I replaced it, but it still was not shifting right, got a bit of grinding at times and trouble getting it into gear.

2 weeks ago I replaced the master cylinder as well. I had some trouble getting it bled, it was difficult to get the clutch pedal to have the same pressure as before. I bled it and got it working, about a week later it starts having trouble going into get and grinds like hell trying to get it into reverse.

I bled the slave again, this time I did a reverse bleed. At one point the slave was not functioning at all while under the truck. After another bleed it started working again.

A week later I am having the same trouble, grinds trying to go into reverse. Have to pin it to the floor with full force to get it into gear. I adjusted to pedal and it seemed to do a bit of good. But I keep having the same problem

So my question is a matter of helping me figure out where the issue is. Could it be a bad master cylinder? It only developed this problem after replacing the master, the slave seemed ok. Could I have gotten a defective master? How could I tell? Does it seem like I have air somehow getting into the lines? None seem to be leaking. How should I go about checking?

I was not able to afford a good Aisin Master, I am broke until I start my new job next week. I plan on getting a good Aisin master and slave then, but need it for getting to work now.

I appreciate any help or pointers you could give me. Thank you in advance.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The clutch/brake pedal bracket assembly is known to crack on these occasionally. There isn't a whole lot of distance between engaging and disengaging on these. If the pedal is flexing it could be the problem there.

Do you still have your old parts to compare to? I have run into using parts store parts and they not being the correct one. Make sure your new part is the same length as the old one. Like your slave cylinder.

The issue I had was on a brake cylinder. It look exactly like my old part, but the piston was shorter inside the cylinder. When I applied the brakes the piston would pop out of the cylinder.

rAvery

Thanks Terry.

I do hold on to all of my old parts. I still have the stuff left over from my old engine. I did worry about the possibility that the piston on the slave is not long enough to move the shifter fork enough to disengage the clutch.

I did not think about comparing the rod on the master. I will compare the two before I pull the master out and exchanging it tomorrow. Seems like since the problems really got bad once I replaced the master.

I have looked at the bracket assembly for my clutch, I can not feel or see any cracks. The thing is rusted though. When I pulled back my carpet I found a rust hole in the floor pan on the drivers side I am really upset about too. I have pressed the clutch while looking at the bracket and not seen any flex in the bracket.

I will know better tomorrow after replacing the master if it was a defective master.

I was also slightly worried that reverse bleeding may not be working right for me. From the video I have watched I have been doing this

1. Use an oil can that has never been used for oil, filled with brake fluid.
2. Clear line running to nipple on slave, the hose and pump are primed so there are no bubbles in the line.
3. Open bleeding nipple, pumping until I see no more air coming up through master.
4. Closing off bleeder and topping off master, which is usually not needed as I have pushed so much fluid up through the lines from the can.

Am I missing something here? It seems like an easier way to do it than the standard 2 person way. Should I be doing something different?

Looking at my FSM the symptoms and causes that are related to all of my issues are problems with air in the lines, slave and master or defective slave and or master.

It is frustrating to have to do this every weekend.

Another unrelated question: I am getting a squeal from my serpentine belt, should I try pulling the belt tighter? It is less than 6 months old. How do I apply tension to the belt enough to ensure proper tension? Could a bearing could be more likely? The engine is still under warranty, but if I can avoid an hour drive to San Jose, and possibly having to leave my truck in the bad part of town for a few days, I would love to avoid it.

Thanks again for your help.

rAvery

Terry, you are the man!

So after pulling off the master I figured I should also pull the slave. The master matched up pretty well. Looked like the rod was a bit longer than the Aisin. Then I pulled off the slave, the rod on the O'reily slave was was a little over 1/4 inch or so shorter than the Aisin OEM slave.

So I took Both slave cylinders to O'reily to show them the issue. They pulled a new slave out of the back, and it was completely different than the one they originally gave me. The one they had in stock matched the Aisin almost perfectly. The first one they gave me was very different. I save all of my receipts for repairs to my truck. Then they tried to say that the slave I was trying to exchange was not matching the parts number on my receipt or the box. So, the wrong slave cylinder was in the right box. I had a 20 minute argument with 2 people before the assistant manager decided to just exchange on my warranty. I was pissed, but eventually they made it right. So, the moral of this story is to save your receipts, and boxes. But also to compare the old and new parts. I had not thought to do this before, but will always do it from now on.

After cooking dinner it got too dark to finish the work, also the spring that connects to the clutch pedal came loose. If anyone knows where that connects to, please let me know. It is the only thing that I am not sure of at this point.

I will give an update if this all works out tomorrow. I am looking forward to hacing a truck that shifts perfectly. I guess that if I had bought Aisin OEM parts I would have avoided all of this crap.

Thanks again.

rAvery

Forgot to update on how the new slave and master turned out.

I have no issues now with my slave or master. The trick is shifting perfectly. I am really happy with how well it works.

The only issue is that now the pedal seems to have a ton of travel, like the distance between not engaged and fully engaged seems really far. My last stick was a 92 Accord, and I could shift very fast, now it just seems to take a bit longer.

Now I just need to change my gearing so I can go faster than 65 and not murder my clutch. The constant shifting is a PIA too.

Thanks everyone.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear you got it fixed. The part stores quality has gone down hill. If your brake spring is still attached, you can compare it to the clutch spring. It will connect identical to the brake only a few inches to the left of the brake. It is on the main support bar, just above the steering column and has a little loop on it.

I have always had difficulty getting all of the air bled out of the clutch lines. What I do is wait a few days and try it again and it usually fixes the problem. I guess the waiting lets the air move to a better area to get bled out. May not be the correct way of doing it, but it works for me.

Bleeding Toyota brakes and clutch lines has always been a little more difficult for me over other makes and models.

rAvery

I got the spring attached later on that day. it finally got me to take apart the dash and start sorting out that ridiculous rats nest of wiring. Can't believe how many wires were severed.

Thanks Terry.