84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

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Old 06-01-2015, 10:06 AM
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I didn't go off and leave you!! We bought new spark plug wires and new plugs because the other set of wires were just the kind from a Popcorn Box with the little Sailor on it. He installed the wires and plugs and ... and ... wait for it ... wait for it ....NO, IT DIDN'T START!!! Hubby said this: "&^$(&^%@*&%^((%$#&%@&^" and that was a quote. He was able to talk to Skypilot from this group and it was suggested he do a compression check. So, folks, we aren't getting our hopes up too high because we have been deflated far to many times but, in doing the compression check of all four cylinders, his readings were 60, 50, 0 and 0!! Yes, two were total ZERO'S!!! So does this lead any of you another direction of thought? What now????? I want to thank Skypilot for his advice and talking to hubby because we were starting to think we were in a dream and we would wake up and go out and it would start right up!!! NOT!!! Thank you all for any help you can give. I just hope all these threads are of use to someone else who encounters the same problems we are having and all you good people will help them like you are helping us. Thank you!!!
Old 06-01-2015, 10:43 AM
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Incorrect valve timing. Bad head gasket. Cracked head. Bad rings.

Considering the valve timing was altered and all cylinders are very low this is the most likely cause. Bad head gaskets generally don't show low compression on all cylinders like this, nor do cracked heads or bad rings.

I'll eat a hat if your valves aren't a few degrees off.

Last edited by jimbyjimb; 06-01-2015 at 11:00 AM.
Old 06-01-2015, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbyjimb
Incorrect valve timing. Bad head gasket. Cracked head. Bad rings.

Considering the valve timing was altered and all cylinders are very low this is the most likely cause. Bad head gaskets generally don't show low compression on all cylinders like this, nor do cracked heads or bad rings.

I'll eat a hat if your valves aren't a few degrees off.
____________
LOL I'd hate for you to do that and have to go to the hospital!! LOL I'll let him know when he gets home from work. We are so scared we are going to have to buy a new engine and we can't afford that. Thank you!
Old 06-01-2015, 11:17 AM
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http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/co...ft-timing.html
Old 06-01-2015, 11:22 AM
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Next test might ought to be a cylinder leakdown test to determine whether any valves are bent.
Old 06-01-2015, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by coloradolady
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LOL I'd hate for you to do that and have to go to the hospital!! LOL I'll let him know when he gets home from work. We are so scared we are going to have to buy a new engine and we can't afford that. Thank you!
I do not believe you need a new engine. What I think happened is the chain was installed off a link or two, when it rolled to start that bent a couple of exhaust valves.

Now if that is all you can do this yourself, its not pretty but it can be done. You just have to have patience of a saint to do things in order and beg & borrow tools.
Old 06-01-2015, 02:20 PM
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___________
That link is for 8 cylinder, right? How do we adjust for 4 cylinder?
Old 06-02-2015, 06:07 PM
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Its exactly the same. Just imagine a V8 as two inline 4's mated to a common crankshaft. The techniques are the same. With 0 in both 3 & 4 either both have bent valves or the head gasket between 3 & 4 has failed. 60 & 50 in the first two are not high enough to support combustion. This goes back to the timing chain, it simply must be off by a tooth or two.
Old 06-08-2015, 12:36 PM
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I LEARNING SOMETHING NEW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He just remembered something!!!! Before the mess with replacing the timing chain, he said he had a hard time with it starting. He had to keep cranking and cranking and eventually it would start. Well, he remembered, that when he removed the distributor cap and advanced something in there (I don't remember what part he said LOL) and once advanced, it would start. So he kept doing this. Everytime he went to start it he would advance something under the cap. Soooooo does this send a flag up as to what maybe that did? I'm hoping every little bit of information that he remembers will help us figure this out!!! Thank you so much and Skypilot, he said the conversation really helped. He is going to have Wed/Thur off and if it doesn't rain, he is going to pull the head. We don't have a "cherry picker" so hope we don't have to life the engine out. The head is fairly new. He's going to check to see if the pistons(?) are burned. How does he check to see if the rings are broken? Or does anyone have any hints or tips or tricks once he removes the head???? Ohhh I hope we are getting another step closer..........................
Old 06-08-2015, 12:53 PM
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Make sure he bars the engine over in the same direction the engine turns to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the number one piston before pulling the head. The #1 piston will be at the topmost travel in the cylinder bore and the rotor cap in the distributor will be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke of #1 piston.
It sounds like the cam timing is off from the crankshaft timing which unfortunately probably means you have some bent valves.The bent valves would explain the lack of compression. I don't think you have broken piston rings unless the engine was smoking pretty badly and using a lot of oil. Once the head is removed, you will be able to see any scarring of the cylinder walls that would indicate broken rings. I think once you get the head off and get a valve job done, you should be OK as long as the cam & crankshaft timing is correct before trying to start the engine. Check, double check then triple check the cam and crank timing before engaging the starter.
Old 06-09-2015, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mwisham
Make sure he bars the engine over in the same direction the engine turns to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the number one piston before pulling the head. The #1 piston will be at the topmost travel in the cylinder bore and the rotor cap in the distributor will be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke of #1 piston.
It sounds like the cam timing is off from the crankshaft timing which unfortunately probably means you have some bent valves.The bent valves would explain the lack of compression. I don't think you have broken piston rings unless the engine was smoking pretty badly and using a lot of oil. Once the head is removed, you will be able to see any scarring of the cylinder walls that would indicate broken rings. I think once you get the head off and get a valve job done, you should be OK as long as the cam & crankshaft timing is correct before trying to start the engine. Check, double check then triple check the cam and crank timing before engaging the starter.
What does "Make sure he bars the engine over in the same direction the engine turns...." mean? Like the word "bars" means? I'm going to tell him what you said. We can't do the "valve job" right> It will have to be taken to someone who does that but how do we know it will be done right? See, so far he has done everything himself and knows it's done right but now bringing in a stranger, that's scary!! LOL Thank you for your advice!!
Old 06-09-2015, 08:11 AM
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Bars is simply a term used to mean turn. Most mechanics use a breaker bar with a socket on it to turn the engine over using the bolt in the crankshaft pulley. So bar the engine over in the direction the engine turns simply means to turn the engine over in the direction it turns.
You will have to take the head to a competent machine shop to have the valve job done. A valve job requires special tools that the average Joe does not have. And it requires special training that most of us don't have. A good automotive repair shop in your area should be able to recommend a trustworthy machine shop for you.
I am not sure what Toyota engine you are dealing with, I know it is a four cylinder. There should be a device that keeps tension on the timing chain to keep the timing in place. After looking at a previous post, it appears your husband has a good grasp of the proper timing procedure so I can't help but wonder if maybe the timing chain tensioner is not keeping proper tension on the chain allowing the cam / crankshaft timing to move? That would explain why he was having to advance the distributor in order to get it to crank before he replaced the timing chain. I would definitely check the chain tensioner before putting it all back together.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as clear as possible, I sometimes forget that not everyone has been turning wrenches for 40 years like I have.
Old 06-09-2015, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mwisham
Make sure he bars the engine over in the same direction the engine turns to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the number one piston before pulling the head. The #1 piston will be at the topmost travel in the cylinder bore and the rotor cap in the distributor will be pointing to the #1 spark plug wire when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke of #1 piston.
It sounds like the cam timing is off from the crankshaft timing which unfortunately probably means you have some bent valves.The bent valves would explain the lack of compression. I don't think you have broken piston rings unless the engine was smoking pretty badly and using a lot of oil. Once the head is removed, you will be able to see any scarring of the cylinder walls that would indicate broken rings. I think once you get the head off and get a valve job done, you should be OK as long as the cam & crankshaft timing is correct before trying to start the engine. Check, double check then triple check the cam and crank timing before engaging the starter.
Also be sure to check the timing dots and colored links for correct position, then use a tie wrap to lock chain and gear together.
Old 06-10-2015, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mwisham
Bars is simply a term used to mean turn. Most mechanics use a breaker bar with a socket on it to turn the engine over using the bolt in the crankshaft pulley. So bar the engine over in the direction the engine turns simply means to turn the engine over in the direction it turns.
You will have to take the head to a competent machine shop to have the valve job done. A valve job requires special tools that the average Joe does not have. And it requires special training that most of us don't have. A good automotive repair shop in your area should be able to recommend a trustworthy machine shop for you.
I am not sure what Toyota engine you are dealing with, I know it is a four cylinder. There should be a device that keeps tension on the timing chain to keep the timing in place. After looking at a previous post, it appears your husband has a good grasp of the proper timing procedure so I can't help but wonder if maybe the timing chain tensioner is not keeping proper tension on the chain allowing the cam / crankshaft timing to move? That would explain why he was having to advance the distributor in order to get it to crank before he replaced the timing chain. I would definitely check the chain tensioner before putting it all back together.
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to be as clear as possible, I sometimes forget that not everyone has been turning wrenches for 40 years like I have.

We live in a town that if you can find one machine shop that won't rob you blind, you are lucky. Husband called around when my Jeep was smoking real bad and they said it would be between 3 8 thousand dollars!!! So I don't know what to do if we have to take it somewhere.
When he installed the new timing chain, he also replaced the tensioners, everything and the gasket which we have replaced several times when he had to go back in and double check timing chain etc.
I just wish everyone lived closer.....I feel like we live out in the sticks aways from civilization!! LOLOL

Last edited by coloradolady; 06-10-2015 at 10:37 AM.
Old 06-10-2015, 11:05 AM
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Husband is going thru his manual for the truck and learned two things that I thought I'd pass on. #1, the truck is suppose to have TWO timing chains, side by side!! #2, there is suppose to be a peg or dowel looking thing on the front of the cam. It's used for setting the timing. When he looks down on it, there is none. He is going to remove the chain and see if there is one and it's possibly at the bottom. It's used for setting the timing.
Old 06-10-2015, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by coloradolady
Husband is going thru his manual for the truck and learned two things that I thought I'd pass on. #1, the truck is suppose to have TWO timing chains, side by side!! #2, there is suppose to be a peg or dowel looking thing on the front of the cam. It's used for setting the timing. When he looks down on it, there is none. He is going to remove the chain and see if there is one and it's possibly at the bottom. It's used for setting the timing.

Ok, it's behind the timing chain and it is straight up so timing is TDC!!!YAY!!!
Old 06-10-2015, 12:52 PM
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Tdc!! Yay!!

Old 06-10-2015, 01:20 PM
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Ok he has removed this.....

Old 06-10-2015, 01:23 PM
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Ok, this is some deep stuff here. Inside those big holes....the one on the far right has ANTIFREEZE in it!!! The ones to the left of it have OIL in them!!! Gof figure!!! We all know OIL and ANTIFREEZE won't ignite, aren't like fuel!!!

Old 06-10-2015, 01:25 PM
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Now you see that cup like area right above the screw....it's full of GRAY OILY stuff?????



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