fbi96743

Aloha,
I guess this is my first post but I have been lurking around for a long long time.
84 single cab 22R 4x4 manual trans weber carb

Here is my problem:
I recently swapped a new to me 22r from an 86 into my 84. Swapped motor in and it started up after I switched the igniter and coil from the 86 to the 84. I also had an alternator problem ( new motor has internally regulated alt so I had to wire to work with harness in 84 that was wired for externally regulated alt) which i think I wired right....
Anyways, I changed the timing chain both upper and lower sprockets ( for lack of a better word) and the tensioner. Evverything went in smooth and the chain was set to TDC (pulley was at 0 , top sprocket dimple was at 1145 and the dot was at 12, rotor was pointing #1 on the cap. I also pulled the #1 plug and made sure that I was tdc with the compression stroke).
As far as I can tell, the timing is all correct and everything was put together correctly.
So, when I turn the key it slowly turns over but it won't actually run. Tried starter fluid, checked dizzy, tapped starter with a hammer and I don't know what's going on. The motor ran after I swapped it into the truck but won't run now after timing chain change.

Sorry for the long post but I am on my phone and I am kind of drunk from drinking beer and trying to figure this stupid thing out.
All help is appreciated!!!
Mahalo

TinMan

You said the motor slowly turns, how is the battery? Is it at full charge?

fbi96743

Yeah slowly like it wants to start but it doesn't. Battery seemed low so I hooked it up to another car with cables and tried but didn't work. Also tried a different battery but still didn't work. I brought my battery to the parts store that I bought it from and they charged it for me. Haven't tried it yet with the newly charged batt....

TinMan

Alright get that battery charged and we'll go from there. Also on the distro gear there is a little notch. That notch needs to just on the front of the cam gear. So basically turn the engine to no 1 TDC compression, turn the rotor button to about 11 o'clock as you are inserting the distro watch that little notch slides in so that it is just on the front side of the cam gear. If not that could throw it out of time enough to not start.

TinMan

Also, how tight is your valve lash? Check it and make sure it is not to tight. If ur using a OEM cam lash should be .008 intake and .012 exhaust. Make sure u follow the FSM when doing it. To tight of a valve lash will also make it turn over slow.

fbi96743

Yeah. I lined the notch up in front of the cam gear and double checked it. After trying to start it I took if the fan, took of the valve cover and spun the more by hand to double check everything. The pulley was at 0 , the dimple on the gear was at 1145, the dowel was at 12 and the distributor was at the notch in front of the gear. I also took out the #1 plug and turned the motor and felt the air coming out. After the air left the spark plug hole I stopped turning the motor and looked at every thing. It was all tdc.
Thank you for the fast response!!!
And please pardon any misspellings.... I'm on my phone writing this. Mahalo

fbi96743

Sorry, don't know what valve lash is. Haha. Not really a motor guy as you can probably tell .... I didn't touch the valves though. And it was running before I changed the t chain. Although, it wasn't running super good after I swapped it into my truck.i haven't had a chance to tune it though because I changed the t chain right after I swapped it

TinMan

I bet u throw the charged bat in there and she will fire up.

fbi96743

So, I put in the recharged battery and still didnt work. I gave up for the night and today I made a list of things and starting working on the truck. I changed the starter, changed the coil/igniter, sanded down the batter terminals, cleaned the dizzy with a q tip, checked Ll my electrical connections, re did my ground wires and it fired up!!!

I was sooooo stoked. But it runs really rough now... Why do you think? Could the timing be of still? I will recheck it and see. But I doubt it's off.
Mahalo for all the help thus far!!

TinMan

Glad u got it fired up. Lots of reasons it could be running ruff, AFM, TPS, vacuum leaks, etc. do you have the factory service manual downloaded? Can you describe how it's running ruff, might give us a few area to start guiding you down.

fbi96743

ok, here is a youtube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OR16...39Gf54Q-MkF91H

and some pics:
here is the alternator wiring I had to mcguiver to get ride of the external regulator

side of carb

top of the motor

side

side 2

dizzy

and pic of the truck. still need to paint/body work and finish the suspension

and a few pictures of my previous toyotas








yeah,i have had a lot of trucks. haha

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

You like the massive lift... Good looking trucks

TinMan

I looks like the first thing to do is replace, and route correctly all the vacuum lines. Especially to the distro. You won't have any timing advance without it. I would also replace the PVC valve while you are at it. It also sounds like you have a pretty good exhaust leak. All these things will cause it to run just like it is.

fbi96743

Ok. So I finally got time to work on the truck a bit today. I re did the vacuum lines and capped off the two Vacuum ports in pictures 4 and 5 (4 caps all together). I also ran a vacuum from the capped off port on the carb( capped off with the screw in pic) in the second picture to the port closest to the radiator on the distributor. It still runs like poop I can here the exhaust leak but can't exactly find it. I have new headers and exhaust that I was going to install which I will do soon. But I am positive it won't fix my crazy idle and other stuff.

I also tried to mess with the fuel mixture on the carb from 2 -2.5 turns but it did nothing. Even when I screwed it almost all the way out or in it didn't do any thing. I have fuel delivery into the carb when i give it throttle but maybe it's time for a cab rebuild? Any suggestions are greatly welcomed and appreciated!!
Mahalo