20twinz

This is turning out to be a great project thread! keep up the good work I cant wait to see how this rig turns out when your all done.

Cant wait to start my Project thread in a few weeks. Im taking 2 Yotas to make 1 decent one.

jmazoso

Took off from work right at 5 to get home and get cutting.

Made the cuts with the cutoff wheel. I took me about half an hour, going
slow so I wouldn't screw up. Cut the bed bottom first, then working up the
sides. Cut the lip of the bed sides last (they are thicker than you think).
Here's the cutting done on the bed.


The 2 rear most body mounts were attatched to the section that I cut out.
Here is the left one.


Here's a side view after cutting.


Here's a side view with the tailgate sitting on the framrails.


I ended up cutting off 4 inches of the end of the framerails. I have the new
bumper to mount, and I am going to bolt in right to the framerails. I made
the cut to the framerails to run the framerails right out to the horizontal
tubes of the bumper, so a bit of them will stick out of the roll pan.

A couple of questions.
Any suggestions for the rear body mounts? I am thinking of cutting the
cross member off the bottom of the bed, and tacking it back onto the
tailgate section. Seems like a lot of work.

I am going to use a wire wheel to take the paint off the areas to be welded
when I get home tonight. I was going to use a little Miller welder, like a 110?.
That welder became unavailible. So, I'm going to use a Millermatic 175, with
fluxcore wire. Any suggestions on settings for the welder, and technique?

SLC97SR5

Regarding the TG 3" lift kit.
1st: do youself a favor and purchase the entire kit, front and rear. I bought mine piecemeal and have ordered nearly everything that would have been included anyway. It is not as simple as bolting in longer springs.

--Sell off what you don't need/want using www.rockymountainextreme.com (Join U4WDA btw) or www.ksl.com

2nd: The rear shackle mounts fo the rear springs need to be moved a minimum of 2" aft. The front mounts for the rear springs must be moved 6" forward from the original hanger hole--double check your measurment side to side with a body mount--not the hanger holes.

3rd: I have an identical truck; '84 standard cab longbed so my advice is fairly applicable I have not got the truck on the road yet but I'am 5 days into the build working after work at a leisurly pace (duty cycle on welder).

Good luck

jmazoso

Yeah, I am totally planning on getting the whole kit. I don't want to have to
keep reordering cause I'm missing parts. I figure that it will cost me about
$2000 when it's all said and done.

I cut my framerails off just flush with the rollpan. I am attatching my bumper
directly in line with the framerails. I've got about 4 or 5 inches to the rear of
the existing mount, so I should be ok.

Cool.

I got my bed welded back on on Saturday. Took almost all day to get ti done.
And it was 105 or so, I sweat through 5 bottles of gatorade and a bunch of
water. Going to be 110 this weekend. The sides and bed welded up, need
to fix a few spots after grinding things flush on the outside of the bed.

I almost got pulled over driving my truck to my friends house to use his welder.
I did all my cutting and stuff at my house, and drove over without a tailgate.
My other friend ran pilot car for me, but a bike cop saw us go by and did
a triple take, but didn't follow. I think he decided that it was too hot to
chase us.

I've got to get the bumper mounted, and do the body work. Need to get the
right bolts to attatch the bumper. Getting 1/2" grade 8. I've got more pics
but my camera is home.

jmazoso

I trimmed out the crossrib from the bottom of the section of bed that got cut
out. It's a big pain. You can't really see where the spot welds are, it takes
some time. I drilled a hole in the frame rail so this could get bolted on.


Here it is installed. I put in the body lift. It is a 1" sapcer from Wabfab.
When we mocked thngs up to get ready to weld, the left side was a bit
high, so we pulled one of the washers.


Here's Cam welding on the bottom of the bed. Go slow, spread the spots out,
and practice. It's harder than you think.


Side view, with existing body damage.


Yota lineup for your viewing pleasure. None of them are mall crawlers.

jmazoso

I have been working on several projects on the truck. The biggest
one of these is a new paint job on the outside.

Shackles
While I was doing my bob, I noticed that both of my rear shackles were bent.


Pulled up wabfab.org and ordered a couple of sets of trailgear shackles.


A couple of the shackles came out easily, others did not. The drivers side
front one was really hard. Had to cut the side plate, then the bolt head.
Heating the bolt didtn't even help. What finally did it was to stick a big
pipe wrench on the end and crank it around. It was amazing how much
rust and other crap came out.

The bushings from the kit worked jsut fine in the front. The rear ones were
too big. (Brian, I know I told you thay worked, but I had just done the front
when I e-mailed you.)

I ended up with about 1.25 of lift by installing the new shackles. Between the
new shackles, a 1 inch body lift, and a bit more work on the inner fenders
with the BFH I was able to elimiate rubbing and fit 33x12.50's.


Herculiner
The PO repainted the truck, and did no prep in the bed. Has peeling paint all
over inside of the bed. Spent several hours and multiple flapper disks sanding
out the bad paint, and primering the inside.

I bought the 1 gallon kit. I was able to get 2 coats on the bottom of the
bed, and 4 coats on the tailgate. I am going to have to buy another quart
to do the side panels and get some more on the bottom. It's ok because
I still have to get them welded up following the bob.

After the first coat, it doesn't look that good, but it seems to really start
to come alive with the second coat. When I got the the half of the bed
that I didn't have to climb in to do, I found that the stuff in the can was
starting to get thicker. I put the second coat on with the brush in the kit.
It worked better than doing it with the roller.


I learned a couple of things:

• Remember to wear a condom to prtect your hootus
• Really, make sure to always wear your gloves,and be careful to keep the
  insides clean. I was careful, but still have stained hands.
• Buy Xylene, it's the stuff you use to thin the Herculiner, so you might as
  well buy it, rather than Acetone.
• It's all going to take longer than you think, especially the drying. It was in
  the low to mid 90's, and it still took time.

Other
Here's my roomates new toy.

It's a Class 1600-2 desert racer. He bought it for cheap, it had a blown
motor. I really mean blown, total carnage, everything was bent, broken, or
both. It has passed SNORE tech before, just needs a few repairs and it should
pass again. No real chance of passing for SCORE. We fired the new motor
sunday afternoon. Can you say loud.

jmazoso

Ok I've been making slow progress on the truck.
Got the money together and had the 5.29's done.
While I was at it, I figured it was time to do the service on the knuckles,
since they were most of the way apart anyway.
So I ordered a knuckle service kit, and rock rings from Wabbit at Wabfab, and the Marlin inner seal from Marlin.

Everything went back great, except two things. One boogered stud on the
drivers side. ABC Auto Parts came through again. Those guys rock!
Now I am stuck with my second problem. The metal seal that covers
the spindle, has a rubber seal in the center, and goes around the hub witt
the wheel bearings in it.

My problem is that I am gettiing about 18 pounds of pre-load ont he bearings
without even tightening the spindle nut. Has anyone run into this issue?
Any ideas? Yes I have searched, both here and on trail gears fourm. TIA

jmazoso

OK, spent dome more time screwing with it. Thanks for the advice Wabbit.

Here's what I think was going on. The inner part of the hub was a bit rough
and was causing drag. I cleaned it off better, and greased the hell out of the
seal and the hub. Then I spun the rotor 20 to 30 times, then tighened the nut
down tight, and turned it some more. I am still getting 10 or 11 pounds
of pre-load. However, That is the upper end of the acceptable range. I
figure that things will "break in" over time. Since I put in the new gears,
I figure that I will pull things open when I change the gear oil at 500, and
retighenen the spidle nuts.

Got the whole thing buttoned up last night, and ran the truck for about a
half an hour on the blocks with the wheels off. Put the truck in 3rd gear
and blocked the gas pedal. It ran at about 30 on the speedo. Tonight I
am going to bleed the brekes and run it again with the tires on, up on the
blocks.

scuba

Nice progress, Did you ever paint it after the bob..?

jmazoso

Yeah, it's 95 percent painted. I don't have any photos of it painted right now.
I am going out on New Years Day with some guys, and will post some pics
from the trip on a trail report. If you look at the pic with the buggie in it,
you can see it in the packground, the green in the final color.

scuba

Oh snap, Didnt realize that was the same truck...Huh, Well sweet, I was expecting blue, But olive drab works

toyospearo

Nice work! Truck looks great!
I don't know how you people work in that searing heat in SG.

874runnersr5

wow man, great build up!!!

i totally dig the pic with the 3 yotas..

nice man..nice!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Glad you got the pre-load figured out...your post about it here is more easy to understand what you were talking about, but you also have the after the fact too.

jmazoso

The heat is ok until about 105, then it's just too hot. We do get the
week or two each summer of 115, and that's just wrong. The heat doesn't
really bother me, trying to work on the truck when it's 30 really sucks.
I know, I know, 30's not cold, but your blood thins out and you can't take
the cold anymore.


We've got 4 yotas that live at the house. We had 5 for a while, but one
guy just moved out.

jmazoso

Here's the trip report for the first trip with all of the mods. Its pic heavy
https://www.yotatech.com/newthread.p...stthread&f=100

jmazoso

Built myself some sweet tube doors. They are based on the NWOR doors
with a few changes. I had by metal shop friend roll the top tube to give the
top tube a uniform curve. I got about a 4-inch offset. The hinges came from
another friend's work. They use them on scissorlifts and other equipment.