84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

intermittant starting issue. Process of elimination

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Old 04-22-2012, 11:50 AM
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intermittant starting issue. Process of elimination

Hey guys,

My truck occasionally decided not to start. I have replaced the starter, battery, and electronic ignition switch. If i turn the key to the start position, lights on the dash are on and everything acts normal except for any activity from the starter. I have to run a jumper direct from battery to starter and it starts fine every time i do that, but its a pain. I have replaced the parts i thought were the issue, and now i am at my wits end. Anyone have any suggestions on how to figure out what is causing this problem?

Its an 85 22re.
Old 04-22-2012, 02:55 PM
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I'm thinking ignition switch. Intermittent contact internally lets it send signal to starter solenoid. Over time they wear out... Some days it'll be fine. Other days no good...
Old 04-22-2012, 05:00 PM
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If you'll notice i already replaced that. Thats what i was hoping it would be, but the new switch didn't make a difference...
Old 04-22-2012, 05:05 PM
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Duh... I wasnt paying attention. My apologies. Start relay perhaps?
Old 05-09-2012, 12:56 AM
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If you're still having troubles, does your truck have an after market alarm system on it? A lot of them use to small a guage wire for the starter interrupt circuit so not enough amps can flow through it to power the starter.

Antime I buy a vehicle with an aftermarket alarm on it, I pull it out and trash it. All my vehicles are protected by Smith & Wesson and underwritten by Colt! lol
Old 05-21-2012, 09:44 AM
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I had this problem several years ago.The only thing that really made a difference was to cut open the loom and find the couple joints of the thin starter wire that comes from the switch and go's to the solenoid on top of the starter. I paid most attention to the area below and to the side of the battery where corrosive chemicals had fallen down.
There was an old starter interupt from an older alarm, in the beginning. Then I fooled with a long NEG cable from the battery to the engine block to the frame. I never considered the switch cause it was tight. Batteries should be changed every 3-4 years if you don't want to bother maintaining them.

Oh and you need a good 12volt tester you can puncture wires with to find the correct wire. You might get a continuity tester too. I have both but can't remember how I actually used them at the time.

Also make sure to cut and solder the joints(do not waste time crimping). Go to Radio Shack and get a 30-40watt iron for $10-15. Google for instructions on soldering.It's easy, I always solder when I make a connection it's cheap peace of mind. You might get some shrink wrap pieces too to put over the joint heat with a butane lighter. Actually I put a right size wrap on one of the wires before I solder them then once they are soldered I slip the wrap tube over the joint and heat. This looks great and you will never have to see that joint again. I used solder wire made for electronics.

Last edited by pcmentor; 05-21-2012 at 09:59 AM.
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