LSUfan71

No, just ordering a new head w/ new cam, to be safe.


I don't think so. It died suddenly and I turned it over only 2-3 times before I saw that the distributor wasn't turning. Sure, it's possible through, I guess.


I won't argue against you but, if that were the case, wouldn't there be some discoloration on the broken cap surface from heat?

sam333

Are you not curious about what happend? I am. It might make a difference in what you do next.

That damage to your cam happend over many miles , plenty of time for metal to circulate through your engine.

Yes its ok to argue, its your engine, your the one looking at it. you can see things I cant.

No , I have seen cam bearings melted out of heads from oil starvation with no discoloration from heat.

When the chain breaks the cam stops spinning almost immediately from the resistance of the valve springs.Not enough time to do any real damage even if it broke your cap( certainly not the damage there).

Did you see any damage to the valves or pistons?

Have you had low oil pressure?

The cam is one of the last things oiled in the engine and one of the first things to go when your oil pressure gets low.

I would pull your other cam caps and see if there is damage to them as well.

Fireball81

The walls of the cylinders look awesome to me (still see the x's from the hone)
Also I aggree with you that there would be some discoloration from any lack of oil heating the metal, but that is a pic of the rod bering not a cam bering or am I way off.
All in all I say get a tc cover and set with steel rails from engn bldr, definatley drop the pan and while you're there 35 bucks gets you a H2O pump.

If we are concerned with metal circulating in the motor wouldn't the cylinder walls be all marred up? (I'm asking because I don't know) The pic with the cap piece is all marred but not blued. My other concern is when the tc breaks the entire motor gets out of time. I am a novice so I would be concerned with how you go about getting the distributer, main journal, and cams back into time since you can't just go by the marks you made before disassembly. (as on a normal rebuild) Is this even a big deal. And are there any other parts that need to be brought back into time that I didn't mention?

LSUfan71

Absolutely, I would really like to know. What you're saying makes sense.


The tops of the pistons look fine (but dirty), no marks of any kind to indicate contact/damage. I haven't pulled the valves, wasn't planning on it.


There's no oil pressure gauge on the dash, but no idiot light indicated anything. There's nothing to indicate to me that there was low oil pressure.


See the pics: (front and back look perfect, middle is fried)

LSUfan71

Yea, I got the hole shebang heading this way from engnbldr: stock head, 261C cam, timing kit, oil/water pumps, etc.


I am, I'm hoping it's all in the bottom of the oil pan or in the oil filter...

sam333

Yes , the other bearings look good. I have seen this before with warped heads ( cam bearing bores out of alignment) or a bent cam( excessive runout)

LSUfan71

That makes the most sense of what I've heard so far. A couple of strange things when I removed the head bolts: They all had a considerable amount of oil in the holes as I removed them, except for two on the driver's side (would have been 6 & 3 in the below image). They both were dry as a bone with rust. I actually had to use my impact wrench to loosen #3. Does that help with the diagnoses? Why were these two dry and the others had oil?

I'm really, really not wanting to rebuild the bottom half right now. Hopefully a new head/cam will get this back on the road.

85RunnerSR5

wow, that head is toast

LSUfan71

*bump*

It's amazing how much I've learned in the past month, and how much I still need to learn is insane. I should've been inside an engine when I was 18 instead of 38... >

bicklebok

There's a lot of us pulling for you and watching your progress! Maybe it will inspire me (at 46 years old) to rebuild my 22RE oil burner.

LSUfan71

Thanks! Got the new head/cam in a few days ago from engnbldr. Been working constantly at my paying job so there hasn't been much time to work on the truck. Just started trying to clean that EGR tube tonight, what a mess! I have a few days off next week so I should make some serious progress then.

LSUfan71

--- crank shaft pulley bolt!

LSUfan71

I got through the crankshaft pulley bolt thing today. Used a Dremel and some #426 cutting discs. I made 4 cuts, intended to cut the 4 tabs off completely but the screw at the top of the Dremel broke off. I knew it was a long drive back to Wally world for another screw so I tried to take it off again. Put it in 5th gear and put my son on the brakes, one turn of my wrench with a 1.5' pipe and it came right off! Apparently the deep cuts were enough to relieve the pressure.

LSUfan71

And a new one was $10 at a local Toyota dealership:

LSUfan71

More carnage pics. Progress much slower than anticipated, too much going on at work and round the house.

Got front cover off, broken plastic guide:


Bits of broken plastic everywhere!


Got more down in the oil pan, will drop it later today:


A small piece broke off the cover:

twasabug

Hey thats exactly what mine looked like when i replaced the guides and chain. broke in the same place and on the cover too. must be a normal thing to break. I havent decided that when i replace my head gasket if im going to rebuild the head myself or have it done. Figured id get new parts while its apart. other than an oil leak from where the cover meets the head its been running ok so not sure i wanna mess with it. so ill wait for warmer weather then decide. Good luck with this job and Happy New Year to ALL. sharon

LSUfan71

Thanks. Mine was leaking oil from the top also. The Rock gasket kit from engnbldr came with a silicone valve cover gasket but I think I might go with some of the tube stuff. But then I might wait till after the 500 mile retorque...

My water pump was obviously replaced previously. I found a sloppy job with silicone sealant, at least 3 different type bolts & 2 studs holding down the water pump.

twasabug

Well today the oil is really starting to spray. got on the exhaust and chased me out of the truck cause of smoke. So maybe i cant wait till spring to do it. We do have a shed i can put the truck in and have a kerosense heater and work on it. I really am lazy in the winter and dont wanna work on this big a job. Well i think ill wait and see how yours goes then i start on mine. Im figuring a couple days work if i work all day on it and take my time. Ill probably just replace the gasket and put it together. then see how it goes. If i need to do more later it will be summer.

LSUfan71

Made some progress today but broke a water pump bolt

Made another thread for suggestions
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/broken-water-pump-bolt-227055/

I dropped the oil pan, lots of broken plastic bits but much better than I had expected.




Got the new timing chain, guides, and tensioner in.




New cover on, waiting on manifold bolts!

twasabug

WOW Aint that purtttyyyy. LOL! Looks so much nicer than my old one even cleaned up LOL!!!!!Good job