Help, my truck died, electrical?
#21
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Please, can anyone else speculate on how this thing broke? I'm curious.
#22
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I don't know your skill level but many guys have needed a timing set and just dove head first into a total rebuild with good planing and had great results. Plus then you will know that the entire motor is good to go for a while.
That is what I am saving for. It would be like a bonding experience between you and your truck.
Either way man I am curious to know if anyone has any ideas on this also. Good luck bro.
That is what I am saving for. It would be like a bonding experience between you and your truck.
Either way man I am curious to know if anyone has any ideas on this also. Good luck bro.
#23
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I don't know your skill level but many guys have needed a timing set and just dove head first into a total rebuild with good planing and had great results. Plus then you will know that the entire motor is good to go for a while.
That is what I am saving for. It would be like a bonding experience between you and your truck.
Either way man I am curious to know if anyone has any ideas on this also. Good luck bro.
That is what I am saving for. It would be like a bonding experience between you and your truck.
Either way man I am curious to know if anyone has any ideas on this also. Good luck bro.
There was a mix of bolts and studs holding the exhaust manifold. The studs are stuck, I know it's in aluminum but they don't want to come out. I have some extractors but I won't get my compressor and impact wrench back till this weekend... >
Looks like the bolts/threads on the bottom of the exhaust manifold are rusted up pretty bad. If I get the studs out of the headers can I lift the header and leave the exhaust manifold in-place?
#24
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*bump*
If I get the studs out of the headers can I lift the header and leave the exhaust manifold in-place? MUST the exhaust manifold come out completely?
If I get the studs out of the headers can I lift the header and leave the exhaust manifold in-place? MUST the exhaust manifold come out completely?
#25
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Ok, thanks. Sounds good, got my impact wrench last night, I'm jumpin' on it tonight
#26
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hey hows it goin. just trying to get famillar with this site.and use it i make toyota parts trying to figure out how to post my add. maybe you can give me some advice. thanks
#27
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#30
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Just got the head lifted. The tops of the pistons looked OK, a little dirty though.
I found the broken cap piece amongst the valve springs, gnarly:
The cylinder walls look find to me, what do you guys think? (spilled a little coolant in the cylinder)
I found the broken cap piece amongst the valve springs, gnarly:
The cylinder walls look find to me, what do you guys think? (spilled a little coolant in the cylinder)
#31
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By no means an expert but I would think the journal breaking was a result of the timing chain (or something else) going. you have multiple journals, and I can't imagine one breaking would cause the camshaft to go crazy enough to break the chain?? Did you ever find the journal piece? Maybe it flew off and killed the chain?
I think we'll need more photos to diagnose. Did you get the timing cover/oil pan off? Definitely want the pan off so you can see if anything is down there in pieces....it could clog up your oil pickup tube and do more damage.
(edit) just saw you posted pics while I was typing MOAR!
I think we'll need more photos to diagnose. Did you get the timing cover/oil pan off? Definitely want the pan off so you can see if anything is down there in pieces....it could clog up your oil pickup tube and do more damage.
(edit) just saw you posted pics while I was typing MOAR!
Last edited by Philbert; 12-13-2010 at 01:18 PM. Reason: photos
#32
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The cylindar walls look in really good condition for a truck with 120,000+ miles on it. I agree on pulling the oil pan to get everything out of it. I would also check the timing cover to see if the chain destroyed anything in there.
I will be interested to see the inside of the TC because I have never seen a chain break before on a 22 type motor. Good job on that!!
I would go with an engbuilder front end kit, new head, and a new Toyota OEM head gasket.
I will be interested to see the inside of the TC because I have never seen a chain break before on a 22 type motor. Good job on that!!
I would go with an engbuilder front end kit, new head, and a new Toyota OEM head gasket.
Last edited by snobdds; 12-13-2010 at 01:31 PM.
#33
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+1 on the engnblder fek....go ot ebay and search "ENGNBLDR FEK".
And use FIPG for the oil pan gasket - dealer only and worth every penny.
And....I bet top dollar you'll find some goodies in your oil pan - look at this photo:
Isn't that thing sticking up on the left the guide, quite a bit out of place?? And, what's with the ring like thing on the snout of the cam gear???
And use FIPG for the oil pan gasket - dealer only and worth every penny.
And....I bet top dollar you'll find some goodies in your oil pan - look at this photo:
Isn't that thing sticking up on the left the guide, quite a bit out of place?? And, what's with the ring like thing on the snout of the cam gear???
#34
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Looks like the driver's side plastic rail broke, I'm sure there's gonna be some pieces in the pan. I'll pull it and clean it out, trying to order a new head from engnbldr.com right now....
#36
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dunno yet, what do you suggest? Will do some very limited dd, mostly highway/offroad. Will NOT be a crawler rig, just some mud & hunting duty.
I'm in south Louisiana, the closest rocks are 3,000 feet below the surface
#37
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The cylindar walls look in really good condition for a truck with 120,000+ miles on it. I agree on pulling the oil pan to get everything out of it. I would also check the timing cover to see if the chain destroyed anything in there.
I will be interested to see the inside of the TC because I have never seen a chain break before on a 22 type motor. Good job on that!!
I would go with an engbuilder front end kit, new head, and a new Toyota OEM head gasket.
I will be interested to see the inside of the TC because I have never seen a chain break before on a 22 type motor. Good job on that!!
I would go with an engbuilder front end kit, new head, and a new Toyota OEM head gasket.
The chain looked more like a link just came apart rather than actually breaking, but I guess it means the same either way.
Might be able to see from these two pics that the driver's side plastic rail broke, some serious grinding on the sides by the chain, I guess. How does it look to you?
#38
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I can see here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51574012 that this other one has what you were referring to, with one tube.
#39
Have your pulled your cam yet , how do the cam journals look? How do your valves look ,any stuck down/ bent? You can pull the valves , clean them, and roll them on a flat surface. If you have a bent a valve it will wobble as it rolls. If one or more valves hit, the marks on the piston top will be obvious.
120000 is low milage and you still can see hone marks, but that is a fair amount of metal ( small fine bits) sitting around your broken cap, hopefully it didnt circulate through the engine at all.
120000 is low milage and you still can see hone marks, but that is a fair amount of metal ( small fine bits) sitting around your broken cap, hopefully it didnt circulate through the engine at all.
#40
Looking at your photo of the cam again, I can see that the damage to cam and journal did not happen because your chain broke. The scoring on the cam is very deep and would not have happend in the few seconds it would take the cam to wind down and stop. I think that you have had no oil pressure at that cam journal( metal to metal) for quite some time, it finaly seized the cam which broke your cap and chain. If that is the case I would check your main and rod bearings for damage from metal in the oil. If it was mine, I would tear it down and rebuild it.
Last edited by sam333; 12-13-2010 at 10:12 PM.