theduck21

Hey guys I was on here a few weeks ago because my barn find sr5 4x4 xtra cab wouldnt run. Turns out somebody cut the ignitor wires (I'm guessing they couldn't figure out how to unplug it before pulling the valve cover). Runs great but idles high, I had to put a new throttle position sensor on, tried adjusting it but when I turn it clock wise it idles all the way down and shuts off, counter clockwise changes nothing. Timing is right. It gets worse after I put it gear then push the clutch back in it will jump to 2k on the tach. Also how long
Should it take for the thermostat to open? I filled the radiator (not sure if the whole system was empty) it ran for 15 minutes, only a little water needed to be added and temp gauge never really moved. Any help is appreciated as always!

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

What year is the truck? Have you checked it for codes? The adjustment on the TPS is usually very minor movements. When you checked the timing you jumped the diagnostic ports to get the motor to step down correct? Is it an 5 speed or automatic? If you start a build thread or stick with one trouble shooting thread you won't have to answer a bunch of questions you may have already answered.

What is a high idle rpm number? What's the air temp where your at right now? Do you have a Toyota dual temp thermostat in it? Have you felt the upper radiator hose after it was "warm"? Do you have warm air from the heater? When you say it's worse in gear what is worse. The idle raises when you push the clutch in? When your foot is on the break?

There is an idle adjustment screw but unless you almost know it has been messed with before you should leave it alone and find the "actual problem" before adjusting that. I know it's a lot of seemingly BS questions but with these answers we can get a better idea of where to look next. Good luck hope this helps

theduck21

Its an 85 5 spd. Idles at 1200 rpm. Sometimes jumps to 2000 rpms after backing up or going forward then pushing the clutch back in. Its in the upper 60s temp here. The heater is blowing warm air and the radiator hose is warm. Not sure on the thermostat. Have not ran codes since I got it running. The timing is about 8 degrees advance. Cant get it down to 5 degrees because the distributor runs out of turn. I tried to move it one tooth so I could get it to 5 but couldn't get it just right

theduck21

And I don't have brakes at the moment. Tried gravity bleeding but u still have to pump the brakes about 3 times to get some pressure in the pedal. But when I pump the brakes the engine dies down. Is that normal?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

You probably have a EGR vacuum leak. Cut up a tin can and block the EGR port at the back of the intake plenum. You must run the TB position sensor calibrate procedure. if this is off, the ECU thinks you are operating the throttle. Do this first, because everything you after is dependent on this being right. There is a large screw for adjusting idle speed on the left side top of the TB.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Two common causes for the erratic idle are low coolant and miss adjusted TPS. Check your codes to see if the TPS is not right. Sometimes to properly bleed the cooling system you need to park the truck on a hill and start it with the radiator cap off. That will sometime let a stuck bubble burp out.

As far as bleeding the brakes. It just takes a lot of time. Start at the furthest point from the master cylinder. And work to the closest. It's a pain but you'll get it. Don't forget to bleed the rear load proportioning valve

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Well here is a possible idea. But it has to have A/C and a few other parts for this to be the problem. The link to the bulletin is below. Read the bulletin page 2 number 3. Then you could check which Cold start thermo-time switch you have and which Temperature #2 you have. They may have the newer parts but never deactivated the ACV terminal. Again only an potential issue if you have A/C and those later issue parts.

I noticed when I bought a new Cold start thermo-time switch it was the newer part number as listed on bulletin not my old original part number. My switch #2 when bought new was the same as the old one. Just a thought and possibility. Something to check...

http://www.toyotapart.com/22R-E,_22R...T-EG011-89.pdf

58rennur4

iTrader: (1)

Oh and there is a confusing issue on Switch #2. There are two part numbers for this piece for 2 years (85 - 87) then the original part number changes to the new specs.


89428–28030 Is the original part number and for our trucks for years 85-87. The specs for this part in these years activate the fuel pressure up system @ 110 Celsius . From 1988 on this part number activates the fuel pressure system @ 60 Celsius.


89428–26020 Was the temporary part which corrected the Hot Soak/hard start issue and activated the fuel pressure up @ 60 Celsius. 1988 and on they changed the specs on the original part number 28030 as mentioned above.


So again if you have the two new parts (and A/C) and the ACV has not been deactivated you can have the high rev issue and need to disconnect the ACV wire as outlined in the bulletin.

bobpat

possible you have a blown master cylinder on the brakes. That's causing the idle to jump from the vacuum leak in brake system. You could just pull large vacuum line from master cylinder plug it and see if it changes the idle problem as test.

theduck21

It had a/c but the compressor locked up so it has no belt. And I think I'm going to replace the booster and the master cylinder. But I still can't get the idle to act right. I seen on here where someone had said the timing should be at 12-13 degrees without jumping the t connector, well the truck (when idling as low as I can get it about 1100 rpm) is at almost 25 degrees with the distributor turned completely clockwise. Does that mean its a tooth off?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Yup; sounds like a tooth off. I wonder if your distributor coils are open. I had a bad idle and a rich porter Dist. cleaned it right up. could you hook up a vacuum gauge to the plunum? I really think you have a leak somewhere. Also did you see that big screw on the TB for idle adjust? Also plug the brake vacuum booster to see if that's leaking.

theduck21

Plugged the brake vacuum and no change. Ill try to get the distributor right tomorrow if I can't figure out which way to turn it.

theduck21

Got the timing right but still same problem, idle is fine if I rev it up but if I use the clutch to put it in gear and revup to keep from choking down, push the clutch back in and it jumps to 2000 rpm. Let off the clutch it drops to 1200. It acts like a vacuum or something. Just went out and started it back up now its skipping. I'm considering just washing my hands of this truck.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Its challenging you. Rise to the occasion and solve it. Your profile doesn't say what part of the great country you call home.

When you rock the engine by applying power you could be flexing the intake manifold and letting air in. I bet when you find it, you will laugh.

theduck21

The great state of Georgia is my home. I've had plenty on toyotas but this is my first one with fuel injection. I've replaced the intake gaskets torqued everything down and nothing changes. I'm wondering now if the dashpot may have something to do with it.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Ok; dashpot is good for issues. I had so many problems with it and such nightmares; I forgot all about that spawn of satan. Sorry I should have thought of that rubber/ metal thing sooner.

FI isn't bad, its just brain dead; zombie like if you will. If the signals are right, it runs like a charm.

combatcarl

As mentioned before, the TPS has to be set correctly so everything can be set. Here: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
I'm pretty dumb with a multimeter, but after a few attempts on the bench I had it perfect. Best to remove TB to adjust. Waaay easier. Then, when you jumper the diagnostic ports (idling, warmed up) you should hear the engine noticeably drop rpm. That means TPS is set right, and base timing can be set. Then adjust idle to 700-900 range. I set mine at 700 rpm, hi beams on, heater on hi, brakes just pressed to activate lights. (Full load kind of idea) Then it's perfect at 750-800 under normal conditions.
Burping the cooling system might be needed, get the front end "up" somehow. Hill, ramps, etc. Get all air bubbles out. Does your truck have a thermostat in it? May not, if PO was one of "those" people.
My dashpot stuck constantly, held idle up at 1-1.2k rpm. I removed it, haven't replaced it, haven't missed it. Too expensive, anyway. All it does is delay throttle closing so cat doesn't experience a rich condition on decel. (I don't have cat converter) Rich A/F ratio kills catalytic converters apparently. My TB and upper intake were also coated with the infamous black goo from a couple decades of EGR, removing and cleaning TB and upper intake really helped reduce throttle plate sticking. Take the opportunity to remove, clean with carb cleaner and lube your throttle cable. All pretty simple, except the TPS setting. Should make some improvements in idle.

theduck21

Just wentband fired it back up. Idle is fine but if rev up past 4000 rpm when it comes back down in hangs at 2k. Get out and push the throttle linkage and changes nothing. Shut it off and fire it back up idle returns to normal. Maybe the TPS?

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Unplug you TPS. Does it some the problem. These trucks will run in a default mode when the TPS is unplugged. Milage sucks but if the TPS is "bad" then they usually run better unplugged.

Only way to tell if it's out of adjustment is to test it with a multimeter. As stated above it is easiest to just pull you throttle body off test adjust and reinstall. If it tests fine then since your throttle body is off clean it and I can urge you enough to go the extra mile and pull you upper intake at a minimum and scrub the crap out of it as well. Even a newb should be able to complete it in a weekend. Just take pictures. Put the bolts in ziplock's and label them
When your at the parts store to get your gasket kit for the intake. Just get a crap load of carb cleaner and some long stiff nylon brushes if you can find them. (Big pipe cleaners will work also). Make sure they are nylon and not steel. Did I mention get a lot of carb cleaner. Nobody realizes how bad the goo is till they take the first several layers away and still don't think they are making progress.

There are several write ups on here about it and more on just removing and reinstalling the intake. That black goo is horrible. Now that I'm typing this I am reminded that I have yet to do this to my new 85 runner.

theduck21

Unplugged it, same thing. Completely removed the tps, again the same thing. Its just weird. It isn't the throttle sticking because even pushing the throttle back down still doesn't make the idle go down. Shut it off, and start it back up idle is back to normal.