22RE Crank/no start
#1
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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22RE Crank/no start
Hi all,
I have an 83 SR5 4x4 that I swapped an 84 22RE into and am having a problem. Wiring is all correct and the ECU gives me the one flash 'all ok' code.
Problem is that the truck will not start on its own. I have to give it a snort of ether in order to get it to start, but once it's running it's perfect. Purrs along with no hiccups or issues at all. But once shut down, it's dead without a shot of ether again.
Timing and fuel pressure are good. Changed the fuel filters, plugs, cap and rotor and still have the problem.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Joe
I have an 83 SR5 4x4 that I swapped an 84 22RE into and am having a problem. Wiring is all correct and the ECU gives me the one flash 'all ok' code.
Problem is that the truck will not start on its own. I have to give it a snort of ether in order to get it to start, but once it's running it's perfect. Purrs along with no hiccups or issues at all. But once shut down, it's dead without a shot of ether again.
Timing and fuel pressure are good. Changed the fuel filters, plugs, cap and rotor and still have the problem.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Joe
#3
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That's my theory as well... the truck I got the engine from sat for almost a year before I got it so I'm thinking the injectors may be clogged with varnish but I want to eliminate all other possibilities before I pull them and send them to be cleaned. I plan to do it anyway, but cash is tight for the next couple of months so if I can get it working for now that would be best.
Any other suggestions?
Later,
Joe
Any other suggestions?
Later,
Joe
#4
Registered User
Sounds like an issue with either the cold start injector or the cold start injector time switch.
The cold start injector time switch can be ohmed out. It should indicate 20-40 ohms below 86 degrees F and 40-60 ohms above 104 degrees F. From the lower prong to ground should be 20-80 ohms.
The best way to get an accurate test is in the morning when the motor is cold.
The cold start injector time switch can be ohmed out. It should indicate 20-40 ohms below 86 degrees F and 40-60 ohms above 104 degrees F. From the lower prong to ground should be 20-80 ohms.
The best way to get an accurate test is in the morning when the motor is cold.
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