installed my weber right... right??
10-23-2011, 03:05 PM
#1
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installed my weber right... right??
i just installed a 32/36 weber and ran into a couple of things. The truck is a 1980 toyota pickup with a 22r from a 1981 2wd truck. The emissions diagrams in the manual and in the intructions that came with the weber did not match my truck at all. Hoses were looped around going to different things it was a mess. The weber came with 3 hose ports 1 fuel in 1 fuel out and a vacuum. My stock carb had like 8 vacuum hoses which i just plugged off. with the exception of 1. I was confused by a couple of steps in the intructions and just skipped them. The carb runs great but i was just wondering if i screwed up.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
10-23-2011, 03:07 PM
#2
From this thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...2-36-a-240521/
Other helpful links:
Subject: weber carb info
weber carb tuning:
http://www.clutchkitcenter.com/media...weber/K610.pdf
˟
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=62976.0
˟
trouble shooting guide:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...ng%20Guide.pdf
˟
carb adjustment guide:
http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf
˟
jetting:
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/62/32/
˟
parts diagram/exploded view:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec..._breakdown.htm
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...3236DGAVEV.pdf
˟
˟
carb set up and lean best idle set up:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm
˟
˟
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...2-36-a-240521/
Someone please sticky this.
NOTE: This ONLY goes for the 32/36 DGV/DGEV/DGAV etc series of carburetors not the 38.
This procedure assumes no modifications have been done internally to the carburetor. Including but not limited to primary and secondary main jets, air corrector jets.
It also assumes you have no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE including the popular two-piece adapter that typically comes with the kits. I HIGHLY suggest using the Transdapt 1 piece adapter. Others have had decent results with the LCE spiral adapter as well, even though that is also a two-piece unit. Easy way to test for vacuum leaks at the adapter is to spray carb cleaner in and around the entire base of the carburetor. If a change in idle (usually a stumble) is noticed then the adapter is leaking air into the engine and needs to be fixed before any accurate tune is achieved.
Other common areas for vacuum leaks are Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and timing cover gaskets.
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.
CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.
Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out.
DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.
Back out the screw 2 full turns.
TUNING
Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.
JET KITS are available if needed.
EXAMPLE: With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.
The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.
NOTE: This ONLY goes for the 32/36 DGV/DGEV/DGAV etc series of carburetors not the 38.
This procedure assumes no modifications have been done internally to the carburetor. Including but not limited to primary and secondary main jets, air corrector jets.
It also assumes you have no vacuum leaks ANYWHERE including the popular two-piece adapter that typically comes with the kits. I HIGHLY suggest using the Transdapt 1 piece adapter. Others have had decent results with the LCE spiral adapter as well, even though that is also a two-piece unit. Easy way to test for vacuum leaks at the adapter is to spray carb cleaner in and around the entire base of the carburetor. If a change in idle (usually a stumble) is noticed then the adapter is leaking air into the engine and needs to be fixed before any accurate tune is achieved.
Other common areas for vacuum leaks are Valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and timing cover gaskets.
Carburetor Set Up and Lean Best Idle Adjustment
Base line Settings
Speed Screw 1 to 11/2 turns
Mixture Screw 2 turns
Your settings with engine runningMixture Screw 2 turns
Speed Screw ____________
Mixture Screw ___________
Mixture Screw ___________
It is important to follow all linkage and lever installation instructions. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.
CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING QUALITY DOES NOT MEAN A DEFECT IN THE CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the factory delivered settings. Check them before the carb is installed.
All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the cam is released. You can check the fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
Set the Idle stop screw (speed screw see fig 1) by backing out the Idle speed screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in 1 turn no more than 11/2 turns.
Set the mixture screw (see Fig 1) by first screwing in until the screw stops, bottoms out.
DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR.
Back out the screw 2 full turns.
TUNING
- BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
- Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
- The first thing to do is not set up the idle speed, but to set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ to ½ turn at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
- Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
- Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.
- Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 7 to 900 RPM with light load or AC on.
- Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
- To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well and have fun. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 2 full turns. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive and have fun. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.
Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 2 1/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too Small). When the mixture screw is less than 11/2 then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 11/2 turns. If the speed screw has to be opened 2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. See pictures and notes in the tech 2 article supplied in the kit instructions, view and please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size.
JET KITS are available if needed.
EXAMPLE: With the speed screw set at no more than (1 1/2) turns in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the mixture screw set at 3 turns from bottom, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at under 2 turns indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.
The secret to understanding the critical nature of the carburetor set up and the advantages of a WEBER over other carburetors is the Idle circuit. Referred to as the low speed circuit by Weber, this circuit is responsible for 80% of the driving operation. This is the reason that the Weber should give a fuel economy improvement over most factory carbs along with significant performance gains. In the worst case you should not see a significant fuel economy loss over stock, while improving HP & Drivability.
The Weber Carburetor is a sequentially timed device to the motor like the distributor. Time taken in the setup will provide more fun later.
Subject: weber carb info
weber carb tuning:
http://www.clutchkitcenter.com/media...weber/K610.pdf
˟
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=62976.0
˟
trouble shooting guide:
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...ng%20Guide.pdf
˟
carb adjustment guide:
http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf
˟
jetting:
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/62/32/
˟
parts diagram/exploded view:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec..._breakdown.htm
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vs...3236DGAVEV.pdf
˟
˟
carb set up and lean best idle set up:
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm
˟
˟
11-28-2011, 06:48 AM
#3
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i just installed a 32/36 weber and ran into a couple of things. The truck is a 1980 toyota pickup with a 22r from a 1981 2wd truck. The emissions diagrams in the manual and in the intructions that came with the weber did not match my truck at all. Hoses were looped around going to different things it was a mess. The weber came with 3 hose ports 1 fuel in 1 fuel out and a vacuum. My stock carb had like 8 vacuum hoses which i just plugged off. with the exception of 1. I was confused by a couple of steps in the intructions and just skipped them. The carb runs great but i was just wondering if i screwed up.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
these are the steps i ignored.
Useing the tie wraps supplied in the kit attach the Vacuum Control Valve to any mounting area which will not interfere with another component.
Before connecting the EGR valve vacuum hose remove the small threaded plug from the carburetor port.
this seems important but i was unable to identify a loose EGR vacuum hose described so i ignored it.
last question is my original carb had 2 wires running from it i could only find 1 thing to wire on the weber the elctronic choke wondering what the other wire was for on the stock carb.
That doesn't sound right to me. I would contact LCengineering. My weber 32/36 only has 1 fuel inlet and 1 vacuum port. My truck has a total of 4 vacuum lines, brake booster, vacuum advance, and charcoal canister. There is no fuel return port on my weber. The two electrical wires was more than likely for your idle fuel shutoff valve... which the weber does not have. Use the positive side to run your choke (electric).
11-28-2011, 06:53 AM
#4
Registered User
The older truck weber kits, retain the EGR IIRC. It uses what the newer 22r's new PCV would connect too.
All Weber 32/36 carbs have two ports on it for fuel. Both usually considered inlets. If yours only had one you got ripped off and do not have a weber 32/36.
The other wire would most likely be for the fuel shutoff solenoid.
All Weber 32/36 carbs have two ports on it for fuel. Both usually considered inlets. If yours only had one you got ripped off and do not have a weber 32/36.
The other wire would most likely be for the fuel shutoff solenoid.
11-28-2011, 07:04 AM
#5
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Two ports yes... but one is plugged. I bought my setup from LCengineering. I do not run EGR. I have the EGR block off kit from LCE as well. Why would you buy a carb with two fuel inlet ports when you only need one? It makes no sense to me. The first weber I had on my 22r was a 36/36 from webercarbsdirect. What a freaking nightmare! Go LCE... problem solved.
11-28-2011, 07:08 AM
#6
Registered User
The other might be blocked off, but that is only a screwed in cap. The two inlets are there to allow you to run the fuel line in either direction. Or you can hook both up and run dual fuel systems. Either 1 regular and one backup, or a dual pumps, meaning twice the GPM rate. Lots of uses for two fuel inlets on a carb. Probably some way over your head if it makes no sense to ya.
LCE don't know crap about webers, they can't even sell you the correct fuel jets for webers, and when they send you the wrong one, they won't return it and give you the correct one, they just tell you you have a fake weber, probably to get you to sell yours and buy one of their overpriced ones. MORONS. And my weber from WCD has been perfectly fine with the exception of the two piece weber adapter, but that isn't WCD's problem. That's a weber problem.
LCE don't know crap about webers, they can't even sell you the correct fuel jets for webers, and when they send you the wrong one, they won't return it and give you the correct one, they just tell you you have a fake weber, probably to get you to sell yours and buy one of their overpriced ones. MORONS. And my weber from WCD has been perfectly fine with the exception of the two piece weber adapter, but that isn't WCD's problem. That's a weber problem.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 11-28-2011 at 07:13 AM.
11-28-2011, 07:48 AM
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The other might be blocked off, but that is only a screwed in cap. The two inlets are there to allow you to run the fuel line in either direction. Or you can hook both up and run dual fuel systems. Either 1 regular and one backup, or a dual pumps, meaning twice the GPM rate. Lots of uses for two fuel inlets on a carb. Probably some way over your head if it makes no sense to ya.
LCE don't know crap about webers, they can't even sell you the correct fuel jets for webers, and when they send you the wrong one, they won't return it and give you the correct one, they just tell you you have a fake weber, probably to get you to sell yours and buy one of their overpriced ones. MORONS. And my weber from WCD has been perfectly fine with the exception of the two piece weber adapter, but that isn't WCD's problem. That's a weber problem.
LCE don't know crap about webers, they can't even sell you the correct fuel jets for webers, and when they send you the wrong one, they won't return it and give you the correct one, they just tell you you have a fake weber, probably to get you to sell yours and buy one of their overpriced ones. MORONS. And my weber from WCD has been perfectly fine with the exception of the two piece weber adapter, but that isn't WCD's problem. That's a weber problem.
im sensing a little hostility towards LCE
.....lol
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11-28-2011, 07:54 AM
#8
Registered User
lol, yup. I won't order most big stuff from them whatsoever. That issue with the weber jets was the last straw. (I didn't order from them, but a member on here did, and I found out what his issue was.)
The amount the charge for their stuff, you would think they would at least know which jets goes into which webers. Alot of their stuff on their website can be very easily either misinterpreted or just plain wrong. People say well just call them, the IT has nothing to do with the tech dept, but....... obviously they have no communication between the two to even get weber jets correct. lol.
The amount the charge for their stuff, you would think they would at least know which jets goes into which webers. Alot of their stuff on their website can be very easily either misinterpreted or just plain wrong. People say well just call them, the IT has nothing to do with the tech dept, but....... obviously they have no communication between the two to even get weber jets correct. lol.
11-30-2011, 07:17 PM
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figured out the other wire was a cutoff and plugged that in. Didnt figure out the egr part. the last guy who had my truck did a bunch of ˟˟˟˟ with the hoses and i dont know how to put it back together smog legal, im from cali. my carb has 2 fuel ports one is plugged i just phrased my question that way because it was irrelevant. although i do see why that was confusing.
and now i see that comment wasnt even directed at me.
and now i see that comment wasnt even directed at me.
Last edited by foolio; 11-30-2011 at 07:21 PM.
12-01-2011, 05:20 PM
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so i took my truck to a mechanic to hook up the carb right its a 32/36 weber from redline supposed to be cali legal. the mechanic said it doesnt have enough vacuum ports. he said there should be 4 there is only 1 and something about it not having idle vacuum. my truck is a 1980 4wd with a 1981 22r he was pointing at the picture on the inside of the hood insisting that the 4 hoses shown on the hood had to be plugged into the carb but there is no where to do so. i have a strong feeling he is wrong
12-03-2011, 05:14 PM
#14
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how is it no good? Stupid Cali, remind me never to move out there. Ask your guy if he knows the difference between ported and non-ported vacuum. And if he knows which is what on the factory carb. Because the only one that needs to be ported is the vacuum advance. The other vacuum advance actually gets it's course from a VSV. I'd have to loo at a vacuum diagram to be sure that the other two are. But pretty sure it's just to supply the vacuum rail with non-ported vacuum.
12-03-2011, 11:51 PM
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how is it no good? Stupid Cali, remind me never to move out there. Ask your guy if he knows the difference between ported and non-ported vacuum. And if he knows which is what on the factory carb. Because the only one that needs to be ported is the vacuum advance. The other vacuum advance actually gets it's course from a VSV. I'd have to loo at a vacuum diagram to be sure that the other two are. But pretty sure it's just to supply the vacuum rail with non-ported vacuum.
i just got to get the damn thing smogged once and im makin a po box
Last edited by foolio; 12-04-2011 at 12:00 AM.
12-04-2011, 06:43 AM
#16
Registered User
I don't know what the law is regarding emissions stuff in cali. What I am saying is if those "unhooked" carb vacuum lines are on a non-ported vacuum, is those components would work just the same hooking then directly to manifold vacuum.
The only Cali Smog legal kits however are the ones with the DGAV (water choke) carbs.
K8748 PICK-UP 81-83 equipped with 22 R 2WD (Features Weber 32/36 DGAV 33 B1 Carburetor) Cali Smog Legal!
K8749 PICK-UP 81-84 equipped with 22 R 4WD (Features Weber 32/36 DGAV 33 B1Mod Carburetor) Cali Smog Legal!
K8746 PICK-UP 75-77 equipped with 20 R (Features Weber 32/36 DGAV 33 B1Mod. Carburetor) Cali Smog Legal!
The only Cali Smog legal kits however are the ones with the DGAV (water choke) carbs.
K8748 PICK-UP 81-83 equipped with 22 R 2WD (Features Weber 32/36 DGAV 33 B1 Carburetor) Cali Smog Legal!
K8749 PICK-UP 81-84 equipped with 22 R 4WD (Features Weber 32/36 DGAV 33 B1Mod Carburetor) Cali Smog Legal!
K8746 PICK-UP 75-77 equipped with 20 R (Features Weber 32/36 DGAV 33 B1Mod. Carburetor) Cali Smog Legal!
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 12-04-2011 at 06:54 AM.
12-04-2011, 08:11 PM
#17
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i dont have the box for the carb with me right now but the truck is a 1980 4wd pickup with a 1981 2wd 22r in it because the 1980 was originally equipt with a 20r. my carb has electronic choke and it came with a packet with california smog diagrams on it. 79-84 i believe. next time i go by my dads house ill have to grab the box so i can confirm which it is. i followed all the steps except for the one that says unplug the egr port on the carb and connect the loose hose. My reason for skipping that one is i didnt know which port was the egr one because the directions didnt explain. And the PO didnt have the egr connected to begin with so there was no loose hose.
12-27-2011, 08:52 PM
#18
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i have a weber 40 dfav. I was wondering about the short brass tube on the side of it. is that for vaccum? if so, do i hook it up to the manifold or the distributor. I cant find the answer anywhere (probbably because everyone knows it but me). would appreciate any help.
12-28-2011, 06:51 AM
#19
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I don't know much about that DFAV (It's a dinosaur and discontinued Carb) I am not sure if those even use the same adapter plate as the DGV's. Without a good photo of the carb, can't tell ya. I goggled some, but all I saw was the fuel inlet tube in the photos I did see of this carb.
IMO that carb might be too much for a near stock engine. And I am not sure if you'll even find jets for it to re-jet it. I think I saw where one guy was on here using it (photo deleted though) and said it's wasn't too much and actually used less fuel then a 38. But personally, I wouldn't even use a 38 on a stock engine. Now on mine, I kinda wish I did have a 38 instead of this 32/36.
PS. If it is a vacuum port, then it would go to the Distributor. Front most port.
IMO that carb might be too much for a near stock engine. And I am not sure if you'll even find jets for it to re-jet it. I think I saw where one guy was on here using it (photo deleted though) and said it's wasn't too much and actually used less fuel then a 38. But personally, I wouldn't even use a 38 on a stock engine. Now on mine, I kinda wish I did have a 38 instead of this 32/36.
PS. If it is a vacuum port, then it would go to the Distributor. Front most port.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 12-28-2011 at 07:02 AM.
